ajg193

Are these oil pumps like on a K series where you can turn them with a screwdriver/drill? That way you could spin the pump up without turning the engine over to see if it generates pressure.

Just get a genuine Toyota 4K gasket. They're less than $30. Also get your cylinder head skimmed to make sure it is still flat.

I'll take whatever bits you have.

What bits do you have? I think the manifold wouldn't fit as the ports are a different shape compared to 4K. Fuel pump stuff would be nice though.

Computer ignition can always be done at a later date, but as you know it would require installing a crank or cam angle sensor. This would also mean I would need more/new ignition coils. I quite like the look of a 5 legged octopus. I guess if push comes to shove, I could always lock the advance mechanisms in the distributor and modify the cap slightly so that the posts are a bit wider, this would allow me to fire the coil pretty much whenever I want and get fancy timing curves like that. But I would still need to bodge together some sort of cam/crank sensor. I could be keen on building my own speeduino, I could alway duck down to the electrical department and swipe most of the required components.

I'd throw that bit out and just use the speeduino MAP sensor, I'd basically try and bring the system into the 21st century to some degree. All in the hopes of hitting 4 L/100 km on normal driving and whatnot

I'm thinking of doing a fuel only EFI system for the KP. I'd buy this EFI system and ditch the ECU, MAF, loom and TPS and get a potentiometer type TPS, wideband O2 sensor, MAP and a Speeduino and make a new loom for it. I'd have to sort something out for an inline high pressure fuel pump near the tank. There are already mounts along the chassis for a return line, if I could track down a normal feed line for a KP I could just stick that in and use it as a return. I'd use the pulses from the ignition system (electronic distributor) to tell the ECU how fast the engine is running. I would also probably ditch the idle bleed air valve and replace it with something electrically actuated. I think I would need to make up some braces to support the EFI plenum as they look like they are missing. ~$400 for system from trademe ~$250 for speeduino ~$300 for wideband with controller ~$?? for fuel pump, hoses and filter - second hand or brand new pump? ~$?? for wiring, plugs, fuses and covers - I have decent soldering station and some electrical tools, I have a few rolls of wiring which should be suitable ~$?? for TPS and idle control valve - second hand or brand new units? Would a generic waterproof potentiometer be suitable for a TPS? ~$?? for intake piping and filter - maybe something off of an AE101? I'd aim to make something that is as bolt on as possible, from what I can gather I would get away with only having to drill a hole on the exhaust and put a bung on for the O2 sensor. I reckon I would get away with just putting a T on the fuel tank where the pump would go, allowing for the return fuel to get back into the tank. I'm not sure what I would do regarding baffling in the tank or if this would even be a huge issue with this car. I don't really want to do anything like putting a surge tank in as this would probably require drilling holes in the car. There are already mounting holes for a fuel pump assembly on the chassis of the car in front of the fuel tank. Would this be worthwhile or pushing shit up hill? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/other/auction-1381833266.htm I'd also like to do something such that it looks like factory and won't give me any issues come WoF time, I don't feel like forking out half a grand for a cert.

I use the timerone (timer1) library to do stuff in the background. https://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Timer1 Also nano does have a 3v3 pin, but I doubt it would put out enough current (it puts out 50 mA) to run the screen.

Also replace that O-Ring that is on the outer housing / replace any internal seals while you are at it. If that O-Ring is out of the engine for any appreciable length of time it will harden and leak as soon as you put it back into the car.

The play will be caused by the bushing in the distributor having worn out (brass). Chinese distributors are crap, stay away from them. You can remove the pin by drilling an end out. You can probably replace it with a nice snug roll pin. I'd try and track down a genuine Toyota electronic distributor off of a 4K-E or a 5K if I was you, they cost a bit but you can't really beat them for quality and reliability.

If it's just in a shitty car that you want to keep running, why not get something second hand? Mega cheap.

Or these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/433mhz-rf-Transmitter-and-Receiver-superheterodyne-UHF-ASK-remote-control-Module-with-Antenna-Kit-small-size/32651427149.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10137_10175_10111_10060_10112_10155_10113_5360017_10114_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10189_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=77d2f1f0-32f6-4414-9736-2c8ab3884b4f&algo_expid=f8a7dd07-07db-40ee-b46a-b9b68b36e23a-0&algo_pvid=f8a7dd07-07db-40ee-b46a-b9b68b36e23a and a couple of these on your arduino: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-solid-state-relay-SSR-25DA-25A-3-32V-DC-TO-24-380V-AC-SSR/32663806352.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10137_10175_10111_10060_10112_10155_10113_5360017_10114_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10189_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=d1e8f859-0e4f-4806-9388-4defad589591&algo_expid=3f640272-ce8d-4183-b11c-b9ed508c39e0-1&algo_pvid=3f640272-ce8d-4183-b11c-b9ed508c39e0

Could be easier to just get a 433 MHz transmitter/receiver kit and make a dongle: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/433Mhz-Universal-AC-85V-250V-110V-220V-Relay-1CH-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Receiver-Module-and/32800457797.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10137_10175_10111_10060_10112_10155_10113_5360017_10114_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10189_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=819dbc03-9063-40af-8c1e-73b64ebe4b41&algo_expid=2026f89c-010b-4b4e-80fc-58f7e673f703-0&algo_pvid=2026f89c-010b-4b4e-80fc-58f7e673f703

The files here: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/new-zealand-motor-vehicle-register-statistics/new-zealand-vehicle-fleet-open-data-sets/ I just put it through LibreOffice Calc (Basically Excel) and pulled out some useful data. I'm not sure if it will be slow and cumbersome with Excel, but it was painful with LibreOffice. Whenever I did any sorting tasks the CPU would get locked on 100% usage for a while until it did the job.

I've done a little bit of digging. Here is a list of all KP Starlets with live registration in NZ: (Click the little arrow to hide this table thing) Colour, Type, Engine Size, Chassis Number, Engine Number, Year of First NZ Reg, Month of First NZ Reg, Cause of Latest Reg

I'll describe the process a bit here, but I can't give too much information due to non-disclosure agreements. Basically you have rovings of fibre glass (a bundle of unidirectional strands, in this case approximately 4.4 kg/km worth or 1.73 mm^2 per roving). These rovings get passed through a resin bath and coated with the resin (in this case a mix of polyurethane/styrene and various fillers and catalysts). After the resin bath they are passed through a heated die, which is kept at a constant temperature. The resin cures within the die and the part comes out the other side in a hardened condition (kind of rubbery when it is still hot though as it usually exits the die above its glass transition temperature). When the part is out of the die, it cools somewhat and is then pulled using (in this case) rollers and then coiled up or cut to length. The benefit of using a small machine like this is it allows for very quick changes of resin and glass types, without interfering with the main production line and doesn't reduce the factory's throughput. Before making this machine I would have to wait for a break between jobs at the factory before I could get onto a machine for a day in order to run the experiments. Now I can just run them whenever I want for as long as I want.

Turning rovings into rod, allows for process modification experiments on a small scale. The big machines downstairs make everything from small rod up to 300x300 I beams.

I made this pultrusion thing the other day and got it running today: Has Arduinos to control the puller, die temperature and resin temperature. Also has live datalogging/plotting using GNU Octave. I'll refine the breadboard circuit onto a single board and throw it into a housing soon, was just trying to get the bastard running in the first place. Second arduino is down by the resin heater stuff in the box with the dials.

#Techspam. From Reddit:

My inverse correlator suffered a disruptive decomposition last night. I've traced the problem to inverse correlation module 3, sector 4A. It looks like the reverse ionic capacitor imploded after being exposed to excessive reversed inductance for an extended period. Does anyone on here have a ferrite cored, reverse ionic capacitor with a rating of 16 Henry's per Farad?

When you lower your car 17.5 mm and you get more guard clearance. At least the speedo is bang on now and the car has more go and more steer.

Sprang, don't tang.

$2400 ain't no nickel and dime expense.. But yeah, keep it going. You could get away with just putting any random speedo drive gear in there and seeing how accurate your speedo is and take it from there. After all, any speedo is better than none.

Next meet?