Guypie

Oh, follow up on this. Got the BOC smootharc 180 multiprocess. I really like it, welds very nicely and the cooling fan only comes on when it needs to so its silent most of the time.

I just did stroke length x rpm but thats probably 50% what is should be cause I'm a dum dum and 1 rotation =up and down Also, sorry for spamming all over your loverly GN thread Tori, carry on as you were...

Its not about rpm so much as piston speed. 4age @8000rpm -616,000mm/min GN125 @11000rpm -536,800mm/min CBR250 @18000rpm -608,400mm/min the slowest revving engine of those 3 has the highest piston speed. Also spends the lease amount of time doing that speed in all fairness. Bearings and whatnot are a different story but I really don't think the revs are going to hurt the gn

A wise man named @Geophy once told me the break in process for a new lifan 125 is a 4th gear burnout. Pretty sure the man is a mechanical genius.

https://www.wyatt.co.nz/shop/PAINT/PROTECTIVE+PRODUCTS/Gravlguard+and+Coatings/Pro+Form+Tintable+Buck+Shot+Truck+Bed+Protective+Coating+3.5L+Kit+PF22256%3Fsku=PF22256.html This one is tintable and a bit cheaper. The tinting costs money too though and I will need to check out coverage and m2 of the car to figure out how much of what I need to get the job done.

@KorbsIm pretty sure there an internal thread on the flywheel hub and you get a flywheel puller tool to suit your thread. sometimes reverse thread if I remember correctly. something like this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_dS6Xn2a

I'm looking at getting a new mig soon, I want something in the 180-200a range. Budget is around $1k though could stretch if needed. Would prefer reliability over having bells and whistles. I already have a old hf start ac/dc tig so it only needs to mig, though most stuff in the price range seems to be multi process. Currently thinking this is at the top of my list: https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/en/cigweld-weldskill-185-welder-each-03675850 though at a bit of a stretch there is this: https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/welders-plasma-cutters-torches/welders-wire-feeders/mig-mag-welders/boc-smootharc-181-mig-welder-boc181mig-p which has much better duty cycle, but doesn't appear to have adjustable voltage. I have never had adjustable voltage so don't know how that works. Probably just another thing for me to adjust incorrectly. Any suggestions?

I have a crappy old lathe of decent size, very minimal skills though. You are welcome to come over and try to make something on it if you like, no payment required

Last weekend me and @hampie were clearing out a bunch of junk at the dump and I spotted the back end of an fa50 poking out of the crap for sale section. Heather being a fan of all things scooter was on it in a heartbeat and we ended up lugging the poor old thing home. It is pretty beat up and missing a few parts so I jumped on trade me and bought a second hand piston and barrel (probably rooted but worth a shot), foot pegs and kickstart lever. Hopefully I can get it running without much drama. I am still missing a exhaust and ignition key/barrel so if anyone has one lying around hit me up! Plans at this stage are 1: Get it running 2: Make it legal 3: Seat cover replacement and general tidy up 4: Try make a spanny and general performance tinkering

Is Bunnings still the best bang for buck on getting a welding bottle? Just got rid of the boc ball n chain bottle last month and will probably need some argon for a project in a few months

Mark had one on a velobike with a briggs and stratton. Was a bit of a beast apparently. Cant remember his screen name but you will probably find something in the two wheels section if you look hard enough

If its a little bit down the line I will be keen for taupo track 3, but have to repair my car and move house somewhere in the middle

My dad had one back in the day. I think there was a big following for them in south africa? Probably not the easiest thing to find parts for but they are cool sounding machines. Will ask my Dad if he knows anything about where you can source parts, probably not though.

its a clear/pink tinted lens on a pinky red opaque housing, that emblem adhesive sounds like the go.

The tail light lens on my car has popped off the light housing on one of my cars. Is there a urethane sealant or something similar that is transparent and will reliably stick to plastics? It looks like it was originally heated to fusing temperature and stuck together without any glue in the factory. I think I will probably only get one shot to get it right so just wondering if anyone has any experience with gluing lights back together. The glue will need to be clear as it will be visible otherwise

I have a Niftsj. That being a nifty fifty with a suzuki sj50 engine. Goes real well for a scooter! will have a looksee if I can find some pictures edit: heres pics Long wheelbase:

See you at dromeageddon 2017 then?

I moved to Imgur when photobucket started being useless for image hosting. You can get it to scale the photos when you upload them too. may be worth looking into. Awesome progress on the car, might have to swing by wagnats to see the finished product!

Got given a nifty 50 with a blown engine so put a suzuki sj50 engine in it and it goes nuts. Have the spare nifty engine in parts if you're interested in them.

Yeah I used the plasticy yellow rope that doesnt tie a good knot.

I have done the rope trick on a mini before cause I was super clever and forgot to put the seals on when assembling the head. It worked mint, and I learnt a lesson on checking my work.

From my experience every time there has been a bubble there is a hole hiding underneath.

I have an oldschool 80's shoei and a openface metallic red jobbie if you get real desperate enough to drive to Hamilton to pick em up

Got a wheel alignment today, very happy I got this done before the trackday. Check out the toe! I asked them to tweak it a bit to handle better for the trackday so they said the dialed in a smidge extra toe out on the rear and in on the front I think they said? anyways they said it should help with the turn in. If you have a good idea of what you are reading and have an opinion on the setup let me know in the discussion! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51171-guypies-wifes-1986-corolla-gt-discussion/page-2

Here's the list of issues I put in the discussion: Still working through a few little issues: -creaking noise from the rf under braking, gets worse the harder you brake. probably one of the pad shims out of place/touching the rotor or something Pulled both front brake calipers off today and had a look, couldn't find anything wrong. Put it all back together and the noise was gone. Score! -when its cold it has a terrible flat spot from 1k to 2k rpm. It got a little better when I turned up the idle mixture potentiometer, prob just needs moar rich. Still there, only when cold though. -It has a loose wire to the lf bumper indicator, the bulb is fine but only goes intermittantly Also unresolved, have not even looked -It has a bit of a tick under accelleration, probably has a exhaust leak from the header flange, might just need nuts retightened. Put CRC on the nuts for future adjustment, also confirmed the location of the leak. will try re-torquing if that doesnt solve it I guess I will need a new gasket -the big one is that the radiator fan does not seem to switch on automatically like it should, which means I cant take it through traffic at the moment. Matt/Gnarleydude came over and he had just resolved this exact same issue, unlike my car his had the sticker on the cover of the relay box so he could figure out what relay was missing. Funnily enough mine was missing too, jumped the connection and the fan came on. Sweet! After that we too the cars to the frankton overbridge and took a few pictures of the sweet sweet 80 series goodness