smokin'joe

' cos the theiving cunts are out of jail and on the prowl. i know the status of one of my old Toys, but must check up one the coupe and the FE Holdy to ensure they are still there. seen some interesting photos on a random rwd Toyota fanboi page whereby he had a few twin heady KE70s, and does a similar spray swazstika to the ones left on the green one pinched about 6 months ago............... funnily enough, he was selling one of them to pay his lawyer before going back to the bum-rooters playhouse.

curious to know any advantage of getting the smallport head and opening up the ports. would you not end up with a port size similar to a blue top ?? however, i have heard of smallport being reduced in size to increase port velocity

where did it come from ? we built an Escort rally car about 8 years ago with a similar spec engine. blew HG due to head bolts being too long for milled head , thus bottoming out before they clamped head properly.

the advice i got for a modified oldie with moderner bits in it was: re-vin rusty ute as it is, then cert it for a modern ute chassis if done the other way around, it becomes scratch built and needs to comply with more emissions/safety bullshit

consider yourself fucking lucky i didn't know about this on Saturbeery when i was over that ways on a buying spree !!!

unsure if it sold or not, but Nevster Kidd was selling the whole 3sge /gearbox package from his Mk2 rally car. bolt in ready to go for around $2k

Gasser, i have 2 utes here in timmers and could be heading north from Catlins in the next 2 weeks with MT trailer , if this helps ??

can vouch for the Toolshed branded ones probably not as good as flexovit, but at at the price they are value for money

definately help to get on cam. had one in my car last year, but went back to 4.6 to suit the road the event was on ..... made bugger all difference ...... must mean i need a bigger cam??

yes , they are. if you wanna sell it, Marrku is after one. good rally ratio or big wheel ratio on the track. be fuckin hopeless in a road car unless you had 33" swampers fitted

if it 4wd , it will have a decent ratio in it. 4.6 is in turbo varients and 4.8 in NA variants, is what i have come across so far

car goes faster because the rubber gets polished by the BB's and therefore has far less internal friction. it's a proven fact, read it in a Smokey Yunick book.

threaded section is often a different diameter to main body of strut, but nothing a decent engineer couldn't fix.

may have correctly edited it for you ????

cum-hoe V700's are a good allrounder, were $225 each (unsure now) can be had second hand easy enough as Pre-65 and other classes use them not as good as A-008Rs, but not much was. with limited warm up , slicks would not be advisable. furthermore, they are not legal for motorkhana/autocross or sealed hillclimbs.

tyre shops do alignments to factory specs +/- suspension technicians fix tyre shop fuck-ups to modified geometry.

if you wanna come for a drive. i have thicnesser, buzzer ripsaw etc.

too many torques ???

Paul, i fixed it for ya.

good idea. still, must suck balls if you have bought a whole front end kit for good coin, only to have it rejected as it was only designed for "show-car" use i.e: not safe for actually driving on.

shit, that was a scary read. has LVVTA clamped down on any of those IFS set-ups yet ?? was at a shop where the bodywork was being done on a fruity coupe, and they had major issues with cert on the front end due to dangerous amounts of bump steer and other geometery issues when used as designed.

like sending a carb to Timaru ?? a reply to PM's wouldn't go a miss.

13B-T

bin it an get a 4K-c carb or convert to small Weber

Ashburton Street Sprints this day. always good for a cruise and a park-up.