Muncie

Yup sure is http://i.imgur.com/k5krbh3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gIOx2jV.jpg Phone pics and links oops.

Stop tail and a clear strip in bottom for number plate all built into red ones. Saw a set on a landy today so im happy will get photos up tonight been out and about today. If i can get away without a reverse light come wof time i wont bother seems pointless on 150kgs of trailer.

I calibrated torque equipment at my last job and pneumatic stuff could vary rediculously so banging a torque stick on to a rattle gun that may or may not be working correctly is just waiting for trouble. The best torque wrench i came across was a warren&brown so accurate next is norbar teng are shit the rest are barely reusable after 12 months. Buy one of the above if your using it at work get it calibrated youll sleep better.

It has a basic frame to support the floor and has a standard trailer style solid axle with leaf springs few blisters here and there but very solid someone had replaced the drawbar not to long ago with 5x50 box section shes good to go but will roll it over and get a wire wheel on it then some 2 pot.

Super cheap auto had a special on what i assume were an unpopular trailer light today absolutely perfect period style 63mm round jobbies so for under 40 bucks i got 2 amber and 2 red when fitting them found them to have leds too. Not exactly landy style but do look right. Oh and i painted it too and made a tailgate as it never had one. tmrw should have pics of what will likely be its finished guise for a while.

Hey dolan could be keen on the lights you have at work what shape are they? Will probably get some from rimmers but want to use this thing asap.

So today saw that shitty basket up front come off so many huge blobby welds massive chunks of rebar to cut thru. Drawbar all cleaned up and painted satin black zinc paint. Tmrw may see whole body get painted red or black got paint to do either colour hmm. Washed it down to see what i was working with white paint has been done with a brush guessing house paint it all basically fell off.

If anyone has some old style tail light that would suit this pm me as i think modern led ones will look shit. Mk1 Escort capri hell anything flat mounting.

Was stoked had to wait for anyone at tip to claim it first so 20 bucks towards their after work beers sealed the deal. Not even play in wheel bearings just needs new lights and im away oh and a tailgate the basket on front can go though

7"s are all itll take by the looks tyres are bees dick from rear leaf spring mount however a healthy dose of slam is possible if i do a C notch and a bit inner guard work. Going to fit some shocks because it gets the hell bounce on due to being so light hopefully it will tame it a bit.

T class endorsement on your licence is dead easy then you could drive it to the shops no worries. Jumped on a 30 ton digger having never used one managed a pass. Slamdozer a thing yet?

Scored this from the huntly transfer station today for 20$ its solid as! some surface rust on the frame but easily buffed up. Tyres were a bit perished so my old triumph wheels went straight on. http://i.imgur.com/czjVEJT.jpg Cant decide to tidy up or leave as is tray is off a 110 landy i think and is all alloy weighs sweet fuck all i changed wheels over 1 handed holding trailer up with the other.

I'm just wondering how many rotors could be stacked before the e shaft shears off from the torque. 8 rotor would super sweet for some sort of batshit crazy goped/velodrome machine.

Im sure a few people will like this bit chromie but some impressive engineering involved http://www.duccutters.com/AndreasGeorgeades-v12.tpl#.Vm5XjRmYbqD

Till i read about the fuel filler was thinking that is one impressive groove to rest your junk in.

I know the where abouts of a factory twin plenum walkinshaw here in nz popped up on trademe a few years back. Ummed and ahh'd for a few minutes and it sold before i could get my shit together. Resides in my mates garage now if your after inspiration could tee up a meeting he most likely has those rare parts your after too.

When was the last time you drained water from your tank on the compressor? You should hit your wax and grease remover with a dry cloth after scrubbing around to pick up the contaminants, similar to doing a cut and polish by hand works a treat but is tedious.

If your running a old mig not new there is some maintenance to do that no shit does wonders. First your mig has a liner for the wire to feed thru and as that wire has a copper coating on it to help prevent the steel core oxidizing that copper oxidizes too leaving shit right up the the liner, over time it clogs things up and your feed may become a bit jerky its easy enough to clean out pull your wire back onto the reel. And give it death with an air gun down the guts of the liner wind the lead up into tight coils and straighten it out blow it again that'll free the gunk up. Once your happy it's clear feed a tampon (shit you not it works) onto the wire before the rollers of the wire feed it'll help knock the oxide off the wire. I learned this shit off a crazy old engineer who lived in a camaro and ate ice cream for breakfast. He knew his shit.

Bought a mechpro 2 gun set gravity feed gun the machining is awful extra shitty mission to clean the suction gun that came in the kit machining is better but not much use for anything but primer. There is a brand called wellmade i have and it is a copy of a de vilbiss (Good brand)a bloody good copy too. Haha i swap parts between my de vilbiss gun and the wellmade when needed nozzles seals they all fit which is good as you can buy de villbiss parts which are ok price wise.

Might be useful to check rocker clearances too as when hot they do close up if they were set a bit tight when cold your valves will be not quite seated when hot.

Mystery Overheating. 2 things I'd suggest hook a multimeter into the dash circuit into a clock feed or something and monitor it on a drive if it varies wildly it could definitely give you your up and down readings. And secondly get your timing and vacuum advance checked the dizzy in my triumph was poked and gave me similar problems.

Ive used it before and yes it is good but i used it on a big old steel box section post and went over it with the recommended 2k resene top coat. best bet is to ring resene and ask them i use their products in my business and as long as you apply them as per instruction you cant go wrong, and if it does they are fairly helpfull. might pay to do test panel maybe a piece of boot floor or something to see how it goes.

Obtain second hand drums and cut those fuckers on there in half with a good size grinder. Youll feel much better.

Cool the 2.5 has had a decent amount of head work done recently by me valve grind and a port tickle new gaskets head gasket etc. bottom end was pretty good too. Good starting point for carbs is to wind main jet up flush with carb body inside brass flush with the alloy body you'll see once you whip the guts out of carbs.

I gave Jake my engine out of my 2.5 so if you have my old engine in there now i can tell you it always like a bit of choke to start hot or cold, it needed a tune when i had it. ramflo's on trumpys dont work to well i tried them in past it sounded cool but didnt go anywhere as well as the standard filter box behind the headlight. try reverting back to stock or just removing the filters and their bases as they can cover up vacuum holes the carbs use to work properly