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Unpopular opinions (and wall of text from a non-expert) incoming. As a workshop that does a lot of newer stuff - the 3 year first WOF works pretty well for 99% of people. The average driver round here does about 10-15,000km per year. By the third year, it's time for tyres... The majority of those cars are inspected annually for servicing anyways so a cut tyre, puncture or crappy wiper blades gets picked up then. Hardly ever do bulbs or anything else within the first 3 years. If someone does really high mileage and kills their tyres quick - an annual WOF check would pass them, then they'd be bald within 6 months because the time between 1.5mm of tread and a bald tyre isn't very long for a high mileage driver. My argument for keeping 6 month WOFs on the older stuff is that things seem to go from OK to broken much quicker. A wheel cylinder starts leaking, brake caliper seizes up or a rubber bush splits or something starts dropping oil onto the exhaust. It's not that the cars are inherently less safe, they're just at that age where things fail from time more than mileage. So I'd put a 20 year sliding scale on 6 monthly inspections. The current most dangerous cars on the road (that we frequently fail) are the 2002-2012 high mileage shitters that get little maintenance and zero fucks given by the owners. They roll in with cords hanging out the tyres, one headlight out, valve covers pouring oil onto the manifold, ball joints knocking, smeary windscreens you can't see out of....and do you know what - they all passed the last WOF a year ago. The WOF requirement is really there to force people to at least get the car checked by a professional. It makes absolutely no implications that your car is safe to drive at any point other than the 45mins the WOF inspector looks at it. It's hopefully checked to a standard that most things would last to the next mandated check. We currently can't expect drivers to be responsible for knowing if their car is safe to drive because people are idiots and there's very little accountability. I'm pretty sure in blighty, if you got pulled over with 4 bald tyres - that's enough points for loss of licence? So whats the solution. It's fucking complicated. I don't know how much a slightly chafed seatbelt webbing, non functioning tail lamp or a stonechipped windscreen actually contributes to the accident rate and I don't trust the government to know or tell us the truth either. Perhaps we can continue fine tuning the inspection process to focus on the items that really make a difference to safety and spend less time failing cars for 34% tints or a slightly crusty rubber bush or a tiny bit of scabby surface rust on a subframe. TLDR: Tyres, brakes and lights should absolutely be checked often. Maybe other things don't need to be?

I'm all good with the current safety inspection of older cars, one thing I though.... I think there should be slightly more leniency for the testing of brake imbalance on old historic /classic.. I want the convenience of going to a vtnz, but I don't want the ballsache of having to get a 50 year old braking system to be as accurate and repeatable as a modern day equivalent when the car weighs under 700kg and probably couldn't do a 17 second 1/4 mile..

Went out this morning to pull the front bumper off and check out how things look. Got carried away but at least i know most of the front end is in good shape now.

Started some wiring fitted looks mint pity you can't see it for throttle body..... suppose that is the idea. More to do just a bit of soldering to finish off and put in braided sleeve so it can shed heat. Discovered the ignition coils could flip 180 degrees bolt straight back on and wiring is basically perfect once unwrapped reaches dead easy and won't melt on wastegate, heat shield will be a good idea though. Airflow meter new location on right side of engine bay set up in photo.

The ECU has arrived, consider me impressed. The micro USB is a bit janky, but that's neither here nor there. It's been fitted with a VR conditioner and configured to suit the Toyota 24+1 trigger setup. It connects to TunerStudio which I'm quite happy to see has Mac support. Now I just need to resuscitate a laptop, as I don't think my Mac Mini will work very well in the car. I went and saw Max on Sunday and we stood and stared at the two disassembled dizzies for a while. The guts of the 4AGE dizzy are too big to fit in the 2TG dizzy, so it sounds like there is going to be some sort of choppy choppy sleevey sleevey action going on. We're looking at potentially cutting the 2TG dizzy off at the red line, turning the blue section down and turning the base of the 4age dizzy down to be joined with a sleeve and joining the two dizzy shafts somewhere in the mix. Max also pointed out the oil port on the side of the 4age dizzy for lubrication and told me he was gonna lie awake at night designing something in his head. I guess my next step is to start stripping the 2TG loom down and working out what I'm keeping, what I'm removing and what I'm adding, along with what is already in there that can be reused. I'm already planning to run the map sensor and IAT sensor off the AFM wiring having done this previously on a Silvertop to Blacktop 4age swap, and I know I'm gonna need some more injector and ignition wires.

Can see a wideband sensor fitted in downpipe in above photo started installing the unit for that under dash too.

Ok soooo, I have a v8 Corolla project that's been off the road since 2010, a Lifan go-kart project, and a couple of later model Corollas sitting in the driveway to tidy up and sell among many other things so I decided that grown-up thing to do would be to buy another project. This one is 2-stroke, something I know a whole lot less about, and as old as my Mum. Dad is a boatbuilder, so it was much easier to get him on board for this project, and he's even let me store it in the woodworking shed. The guy selling it priced it based on what he'd seen a fuel tank listed for on TradeMe. The motor turns over by hand, but the prop doesn't turn, and it sounds like it's a shaft rust issue. I'll dig into it at some stage, but for now creating a thread on here was much more exciting than actually working today. I see the Seagull Barrys race them, so it might be a good chance to buy a silly little boat to put it on.

This statement doesnt require any context whatsoever. If it were 2010, id be puting this in my signature.........

Finally got a nice clean Wildcat wheel, console to be soon, hmmmm need to go faster

You can guarantee that'll be a fuck up too.

MX5's can fit car engines np! Such a practical car.

How it started ^^^ vs how it's going So I mentioned to Dad that we needed to get the leg off to see if the driveshaft was rusted. I didn't mean now. Dad decided now was a great time. So we've spent however long it's been between that post and this post pulling it apart. We've split the top of one flat head machine screw, broken a bolt, scooped out a couple of cups of this weird shell/grease mix, poured the driveshaft out as a fine powder of iron oxide, and now we're trying to work out how to remove the machine screw with the broken head to release what I'm gonna call the pinion gear.

Uncle Neemia has been working away at this, one more bulkhead to go in, then it will be “flowcoated” with gel coat to make it smooth, and then the floor can go down, the flooring plywood will be encapsulated both sides with fiberglass, as much as I dislike wood, I couldn’t justify solid composite (coosaboard) material and I didn’t want soft foam core flooring.

Continuing on with my how much can this thing carry series. Realistic flag added post production to avoid legal issues down the track.

*girly screams of excitement * just got these through

the simple fact that people can back out of/ enter their garage during darkness, and not pick up on the fact that one headlight has blown, truly fecken astounds me. what other obvious things do not compute behind their retinas

Trademe. Fkn iPhone keeps changing words like a politician

FC plates work perfectly if you are just building a street car. Besides who needs FD irons in an FC. It’s like those guys how stick Chevy motors into Ford’s because they think it’s more reliable. Who the hell builds a rotary for reliability?

There’s a few decent FC plates on the yard at the moment.

Yes inlet Manis are different and they're also more expensive. Fc plates are fine for what you are doing with them. Well capable of 5-800 hp reliably with just decent stagey. Unless u can get FD parts cheap - good luck with that lol Greens are about 2900 for a set of new plates then u can have them cnc ported for not alot more. If everything else u have is good then sweet, job done

And they think a firearms register is a good idea...

We have owned this little Moke for about 4 years now and since I'm starting to do a bit of work on it, I figured I'd start a thread as it might be of interest to others. So, first up a bit of background. When we lived in NZ, Mrs Flash owned one of those newish 1275cc SPI Rover Minis. It was a Jap import that someone had done quite a bit of back dating on. A lot of the changes were fairly subtle, but the most notable things were the fitting of 10-inch Watanabe rims to replace the original 13-inch units and the removal of the modern dashboard that was replaced with a classic centre mount speedo. The car was a little rocket and super fun to drive. Sadly, we made the decision to sell it before heading off on our Australian adventure and last I heard it was somewhere in Christchurch. So fast forward a few years and we are now permanently OZ based and looking to get back into some classics. We often thought back to the fun that we had with that little Mini and decided that owning another little Leyland would be good. The climate over in tropical Queensland lends itself to something a little more open and so we set our sights on a Moke. After checking out a few we ended up pulling the trigger on a fully restored 1100cc powered 1974 Californian look alike that was going for reasonable money. When I say reasonable I really mean that after doing my own sums I concluded that I couldn't have restored a clunker to this level for the money that was being asked. So, after swapping a few calls with the current owner together with the studying of some detailed photos a "deal in principle" was struck pending final inspection. We grabbed a hire trailer and headed south down to Noosa hoping to be returning with a loaded trailer. Gave it the once over, took it for a quick drive, some cash changed hands, and this happened: In my next update I'll talk about the maintenance undertaken to date and then a little bit about the current work being done. Thanks for looking.

The lewis in winter on an NBC towing a mountain bike would be an @tortron approved level of misery.

Panel Barry is a stickler for door gaps. Suppose he wouldn't be panel Barry if he wasn't a gap commander. These dogleg panels (his words) which cover the front portion of the rear arch were not lined up well with the doors and it was throwing off some other things. These little panels have always been messed up since I got it, probably since 30 years ago to be fair. So out comes the cutting and welding tools again. The doors also weren't perfect so fixed that up on both sides. I'm happy to hear, and his words "This is the end of the real time consuming type of repairs". We'll see about that I suppose as he works the front.

However, during the pre purchase inspection I picked up a few things in the engine bay and suspension wise that placed some doubt on how far the mechanical restoration had been taken. Nothing major, but just little signs that some items still needed attention. On getting it home, the first thing that I did was to fit an electronic unit to the existing distributor in the hopes of resolving an intermittent misfire. We then clocked up about 1000km during which time I was almost constantly fiddling about to try and get the timing right. In desperation I eventually pulled the dizzy out for a closer look and discovered excessive play in the shaft, so I ended up ordering a brand-new distributor from MiniSport in Adelaide. The new distributor came with its own set of electronic internals already fitted so the old unit went into the parts bin. This solved the misfire, and we ended up enjoying another 500km of trouble-free motoring until one day the Moke just suddenly cut out and left us stranded at the side of the road. Luckily, we were close to home, so I walked the rest of the way and returned with our Holden ute and a tow rope. After a bit of troubleshooting, I pinpointed a fuelling issue which turned out to be a faulty float valve. Got a new one sent up from MiniSport and we were back in business. Shortly after that the actual carby started playing up - again excessive wear - and we ended up ordering a reconditioned SU from MiniSport. Since then its literally been an annual oil and filter change and the fitting of a new battery and we are now up to around 2400km of travel that we have undertaken since purchase. And that pretty much brings us up to this point in time. In my next update I'll cover some additional maintenance work that has happened over the past few weeks. And no one likes a pictureless update so here is a group photo of our small fleet:

When we purchased the little Moke it had only travelled 1614km since being restored born witness by the odometer reading on the brand new Speedo. The story goes that a father restored the Moke for his disabled son. The son was wheelchair bound and old mate had even fitted 12 volt rams to the rear hinged fibreglass roof so that he could get the youngster in and out of the passenger seat. Problem was that the youngster didn't have much upper body control either and nearly fell out of the Moke on the first outing. The family got such a scare that the Moke got parked up for a while before they sold it on to a young fella from Noosa. I think that the new owner fell in love with the idea of owning an old classic without realising that it isn't like driving a modern hatchback with all the mod cons. He was also not mechanically minded so he ended up farming the maintenance out to a local mechanic and after receiving a few repair bills the novelty of owning the Moke wore off. And its at this point that Mrs Flash and I stepped in to take over the reins. So, both inwardly and outwardly the Moke looked absolutely immaculate as borne out by the below photos that I saved from the original advertisment:

I havent done any v8 stuff. but on 4 cylinder 1.6L making around 175hp at engine. this is close to ideal setup , after the collector its 2" then tapers up after the vband to 3" into a glass pack. after that you can get away with more sins. So yeah if you want to get fancy with it, carry on tapering down your collector to 2", run 2" for for a bit, then chuck in a 2" - 2.5" exducer cone with 2.5 inch reso's directly after that, bigger they are the better. some of the small ones dont really do much. think of the reso as the exhaust ending. after that do what you like really. merge into a single 2.5 or 3" and add mufflers till its quiet enough. you might grab a little bit of power off the bottom and in the middle doing it that way. otherwise your original plan will probably work fine

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.

I got it all back together and has all of its gears so I'm calling that a win. It also does not appear to be leaking any transmission fluid, another win. So then I looked to the wheel bearing situation, and smashed that out. There is a dedicated X1/9 forum, Xweb, which has a lot of excellent info and how to's. I found a great pictorial run through of the process and set to. I did need to make a special tool to remove a locking ring but that was no drama. Octagonal lock ring fuckery. Special tool made by a special tool. That and the engine going in meant Sunday was quite a big day, so I left the tie rod end for tonight. On the basis of this minor last task I booked the car in for its recheck and a wheel alignment. After work I went down to sort it, only to find that the rod end is the wrong one, and about 50mm too short, GAHhhh! It took two weeks for the last one to arrive, I am so disappointed. Anyway. Previously to this weekends shenanigans I had done some messing with the jetting, and drilled the mains out to 130 from 125. So I took it out for a short run so I could bleed the cooling system properly and check the AFRs which were much improved, as was the idle to main circuit transition, so that at least was good.

All of which is getting silly - simple rules for what should be a simple system. Annual wof's for all cars.

That's not what I said, why would doing a 1 year wof check on a 1999 car be any more risky that a 1 year wof check on a 2000 car? Do you actually drive an old car? The 6 month wofs are a pointless waste of time and money.

Following Kelvin's success with his lowering rails, and girlface's "well it's a quality of life improvement, not a performance upgrade" concession, I nabbed some as well. I wanted to get some adequate before and after's but I was on my own so... we'll start with me failing to fit an upright Suica card above my head. I started with the passenger side - also using Kelvin's patented "do it in the back seat" approach (hmm phrasing) - and I had a couple of brain scratchies around the belt buckle that took things later than I wanted but figured it out eventually. A tricky driver's side before and passenger's side after the next day. Riveting On to the driver's side... and well, there's not much more than to show some before and after's. There's more than a whole Suica card's height now! I kept the driver's seat in the same angle while upgrading it to try and keep these two eye-level shots as close as I could. I can actually adjust the wheel down! You can see my hair! As Kelvin said, "it really does feel like you're IN the car now", as opposed to riding on it. It no longer feels like I have a vertical blinder on. I can more easily see under the front-view mirror. My hair doesn't scrape the head liner, regardless of seat incline. I don't have to recline the back slightly past where I'd prefer it to be anymore. And at the other end my butt's position in the car feels more planted and nestled. Overall 10/10 upgrade. I can't wait to drive it again.

Today went pretty smoothly, managed to solo tow the old girl off the lawn and onto the driveway and waterblast 2 years worth of lichen off. Found lots of cancer had spread but not as bad as it could be. 15 yard test is still a pass. Also found lost of lifting bog from its life before me, will make for interesting times ahead. Had to use the quad with a bare tire on the front to push it into shed as the brakes were binding on, got wife to steer it and it went slowly rolling into the jack, axlestands and compressor. She hops out 'i tried using the brake but it didn't work, its not my fault!!' Calmed her down with 'if i told you it had no brakes would you have hopped in it?' Prolly no dinner for me tonight lol.

Believe it or not i worked on this today. I went over to mums to sell a valiant diff to a rooster off marketplace. While i was there i set about refitting the copper radiator. With a view to giving the block a good flush before fitting the purdy new rad. I got that in. But decided there wasnt enough day left for the actual flush. (We spent ages digging through my pile of diffs, turns out i have three spare VG diffs) I went to start the old bitch up, cos i havent heard it run for ages. But the fuel pump didnt seem to be able to fill the fuel filter. So i gave up on that too. Ill take an electric pump over some time, and finish what i started today. Pic of the pile of diffs for thread.

Not too much done today, but I did get a replacement headlight for the one I broke ages ago when I was fitting the others. It was not actually intentionally meant to be a blank space. SEV Marchal! I always liked the look of yellow and of course the sweet cat logo. I will just run one, a little bit of style perhaps. Plugged it in and it works fine so that was easy. Although I need to figure out why the passenger outer light turns off when the high beams are on. Not super high on my list of priorities seeing as it's unlikely to ever be used anyway. I finished putting undercoat on the driver side so installed the side metal trims just using some screws. Not the best but it's what I could find that fits. Gotta fuck with the dick you got. Not sure they will stay in there securely so I'll have to keep an eye on it. When I was out taking these photos just down the road some guy gave us a toot and a thumbs up on the way past and I was only out there for about 2 mins! Unfortunately (but probably not unexpected) my front demister blower isn't working. I can't remember if it ever worked but I might look at trying to get that going again as it could come in handy. The rear demister I'm fairly sure is totally cooked but that's not such an issue as the front.

I actually have a massive boner for early Jimny 2-strokes. An old guy that comes into work has one, I'm trying to get put into his will so I can get my mits on it. Anyways, I have done a bit more on this thing. Don't laugh at my lack of wood working skills, I fucking hate working with wood. So I made the front guards, bit of a weird shape to try and make out of wood, mostly because of my being a tard and all. A bit of fiberglass & resin, a hint of bog, and they should come out pretty good. Then I got started on the bonnet, which is probably the most complicated shape on the thing. Added some wooden ribs, and a couple of dowels as reference marks, then put real thin MDF under them to keep the foam in, then filled the gaps up with foam, then carved the foam with a hacksaw blade and Stanley knife, then chucked a couple of layers of fiberglass over it, to give me a firm base to work with. It actually came out really close to correct, so will need very minimal amounts of filler. Next was lights. My B-I-L used OG dolphin torch reflectors/lens' on his Jeep, that he cut down to the correct size. New dolphin torches have four round LED bulbs in them, so don't look anything like a head light. The only torch I could find that was roughly the correct size, and also sort of looked like a real headlight was some budget items from Bunnings. I pulled them to bits, linished & sanded the OD of the lens down as small as I could, but so that the reflector still fit into it. I then cut the holes in the body to suit these. The front grill will hold the lights in, and also down size them to roughly the right scale size. I also found a Toyota badge that used to be on my 86 (before I got a legit one) that's pretty damn close to the correct size for this, but not sure if I will use it or not. The back lights were way easier, I found some LED lights on Ali that were the right shape and scale for this thing. They are meant to be in corners of the bumper IRL, which seems silly, as they would get smashed real easy. I added in a bit of wood roughly the same shape as the real bumper, and set them into this, so they are a bit more protected. There will be a steel bumper under them mounted to the tow bar in the future, so it should be quite a challenge for the kids to smash them. That's pretty much where I'm up to. Regards, VG. xoxox

Aftermarket carpet sucks. I learnt this the hard way I suppose. The Celica carpet was already aftermarket by the time I got it and it was super old, dirty and chopped to hell. In my attempt to try and freshen up the interior this year I decided to get one of those moulded carpets. I quickly realised I'm not made for an upholstery career. They say you should start from the rear and move forwards when fitting them up. The problem I quickly found was that these are not quite right for this car. Research suggests that they are in fact moulded off TA23 not TA22, a small but important difference. TA22 did not even have carpet like this from the factory, more like glorified floor mats. My cutting skills are terrible as I was getting annoyed by this point, and the blades were getting blunt. I initially wanted to wrap it under the seat base however the seat sits directly on the body with no room to move so that was not possible. Additionally the roll cage mounts in the rear are in the way of the seat bottom which is why its curved up on each end. I'm not sure what the OEM TA22 carpet looks like but I believe there are some clips that it can use to hold up, but I've not actually seen any factory standard TA22 carpets in person before to compare it. I'll paint the floor black and the rear around the seats so it is less noticeable but yeah, disappointed with my efforts on that one. Another thing about the TA23 vs TA22 is the TA23 side rocker sill things are designed for the edge of the carpet to go underneath and bolt down, TA22 are not. That means more rough cuts along the side edges too. As you can see, lots of bits cut off. Anyway I got the front kind of fitted up as best as possible (remember those fucking blocks in the way) and installed the seats back. I'll need to replace these as it turns out as there is some damage on both of them (more than just superficial and foam). Then I got her fired up and went for a burn and I didn't care about the carpet at all. The fuel is probably 2 years old by now and it still worked mint. Sadly I don't have a phone mount but the sounds on song were excellent. The panhard rod I put in stopped any rubbing that I could tell and actually the car handled surprisingly well. It goes, stops and turns just like it should. Good car.

Even after spending like $150 on some beefy blades I still can't cut these damn rollcage boxes out. They must be made of uncutanium or something. Congratulations rollcage boxes, you live forever. I even tried to grind down the top so it was flat but that would have taken 20 years, ain't nobody got time. I'll just get the new carpet and then try to cover them somehow, maybe use the old carpet to make up something; not sure yet. So after that disappointment I found a distraction. I mentioned some time ago about the trims around the windscreens being terrible to look at and it just so happened I had some trim paint laying around. I think they came out great, but now they're a little too shiny compared to the rest of the car.. hopefully over time they'll fade a bit. I'll get some more paint and tape and do the rear to match. I do have the trims to go around the front and rear windscreens however that's a windows out job and I don't really want to find out what's underneath. This is what 20 year old underseal looks like when it's wire wheeled off. While I was in between coats of the windscreen seals I removed the side trim and wired off the remaining crusty old underseal coating that was put on. Unfortunately as you can see lots of the paint also came off so I will spray new undercoating there and re-install the trim after giving it a polish. Originally those trims use plastic clips to hold them on but mine was riveted so not sure if I will rivet again or maybe use screws instead.

New beam’s laminated and machined from @Ned’s 3d scans, amazing outcome for such a big surface and “low cost” scanner Realising I don’t have enough talent for structural fiberglass work, talented uncle Neemia from work took over and is doing an excellent job, a layer of glass is over the inside of the hull and the beams bonded in place to be laminated over the top of.

Regale me with your HQ related tales of triumph and woe, and ownership hints and tips here ^

I won't bombard you with 50 more Panel Barry Hakosuka photos but this one is a huge milestone. The majority of the fabrication and rear end structure have been completed and the final weld up is on! The chassis is now razor straight, likely straighter than when it came out of the factory. I can't remember the last time it had a rear end on it? It's been over 5 years for sure. The back panel you see there is the original one which he's using to get the correct holes for welding then will be replaced with a brand new reproduction item that I've provided. Onto the front and to my amateur eyes it doesn't look nearly as bad as the rear but I'll leave it to the professionals on that one. He will have a poke around, clean up what can be cleaned up and replace what needs replacing.

Trust me to turn a one hour job into two days. Ever since I had the SSR MK3s built there was some fender scraping on one side in the rear (which is why I decided to switch it up briefly and have one side swapped around front to back). This is partially because the rear arches are probably uneven and filled with bog and partially because I had the wheels built without measuring anything. Seeing as I was doing a Whiteline stock order I added one of their adjustable panhard rods and try to square up the rear diff. First issue was one of the nuts stripped threads so I had to cut that off and made a hash of it, then I was trying to do this job without unbolting the 4 control arms which meant the diff was super hard to move around so I gave up and went home to sleep off my hangover. Day 2 I straight away unbolted the four control arms and life was considerably easier. I need to get another castle nut to replace the one I cut off but otherwise it's on now. Also a little bonus is the control arm bushes appear to have been replaced so they're still nice. Seems like I was also adjusting it the wrong way so rectified that and I think it's about even on both sides now. Keeping in mind the guards are filled with bog so also not really even. I was thinking about doing a slight one way height adjust on the rear but might leave it for now until car is back to driving and see how the clearance is. Long term plan is not to use those wheels anyway.

All legal beagle, any cruises etc hmu,will head upto cars in coffee, few things to do still but that's any car really, needs gearbox badly and decide on a new engine, time to give her a beating

I picked up a saw during the week and had a go at cutting, didn't get very far before the blade decided to become smooth and basically just polish things. Smoke fell out of it too. So today I learnt there are different blades for cutting different thickness of metal. I've now spent my life savings again to buy a bunch of blades for chonker steel. If that doesn't work then I give up and will just get new carpet and cut around these stupid boxes. I did conduct a somewhat successful experiment with sound deadening though. I was reading about how to remove sound deadening without dry ice and this freeze spray stuff came up a few times so I gave it a shot. It didn't work too bad but it would be a ludicriously expensive way to actually remove large portions of sound deadening. Just getting the chips of this little bit used up the whole can. I haven't really worked out where the cuts for these boxes will be done but hopefully when I start to cut things it will make more sense depending on what access becomes available.

Another email from panel Barry come through recently. He's been spending time cleaning up the sills and preparing for the final weld in as well as getting all the welds in the rear floor/boot area ready to support the rear end going back together.

I might've jumped the gun on a previous post saying the car was quite straight, turns out there was a bit more to do.. Chassis rails were mulched from forklifts as mentioned earlier and once the car was pulled straight it was apparent more things were not in great shape. The side sills on driver side had to come off and be modified as well as the chassis rail torque boxes. Some more rust was found underneath (to the surprise of nobody) so they were recreated. I was a little worried about this part of the b-pillar as it was pretty pitted originally especially where it connected down with the inner sill but that's looking much better now. Door gaps looking mint. So yeah these are the kinds of jobs which take ages but aren't really exciting to look at but needed to be done to ensure it can survive another 50 cycles around the sun.

17 years after its last birthday, it’s time for another The floor was dubious the first time around, wood is a terrible product. All wood to be removed this time. Stringers, beams and transom. A very happy @Tumeke helping with the misery is it time for a barra

GF wanted some fancy shelves in the lounge, she timed asking just right on the same day as I was getting the cnc running again. A day of design, three sheets of ply and press the green button. Slot together and a few screws to be sure.