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What was the consensus for good flow low noise/drone? Res then large barrel straight through or chambered muffler? I don't mind some noise just don't want droning.. For a zephyr 6.

Here's a video of the first start, I'm genuinely surprised how well it idles from cold etc. Cold start is bad but then it idles straight away. This is with the fuel pump jumped via the diagnostics plug. Hopefully I'll figure out getting the ecu to trigger the fuel pump. https://youtu.be/toCfkd0BbO8?si=jZJvmsDtOWLo17_n

So this car is still a thing. There has been a bit of a speed hump which has slowed my already snail like progress. Was getting it ready to get a WOF in Feb of 2013. Had gotten it running well enough to put through a WOF inspection. Took it fot a quick hoon on Feb 13th and put it away in the workshop to do some final small jobs before getting it checked over then this happened. So yeah that fully sucked. Soggy Lancer. pulled the ecu and washed then dried it as soon as i could. drained all the fluids/waters and filled with new oil and filter. Waterblasted the interior and engine bay then got the engine running within a couple of days of it being under water and let it get up to temp a few times to get as much water out of it i could. Then let it sit until xmas time where it finally got a more love. So have recently pulled the tank out and given it a good clean out. Fitted a new fuel pump as the near new one i had in it shat the bed with all the water and crap it was sucking up. Interior is fully gutted atm and the car is running. Have started working away and creating a to do list as i go which is growing with every job i tick off but will get there. More pics to follow soon.

Do you mind me asking how much/where did you get the flare tool from? Having done enough with the usual $35-50 toledo special over the years I can appreciate those ones like you're using

All done. Plugs came in and gasket came in so I finished up the install. Previous gasket was rock hard as you'd imagine and covered in gasket goop. I didn't use goop this time (time will tell if that was a good idea or not) and definitely used up some back credits with leaning over to scrape off what was on there. I couldn't get any half moon rubber bits for the back so those are still gooped in though. Perhaps I should get some manufactured. This makes me realise a few things. I need to get rid of that K-Tuned breather filter which was put on years ago because I just had it laying around and it fit and I'll need to get a new oil cap, or somehow try to restore that one. The plug leads are annoying me too because they're not actually entirely correct. Again, seems difficult to find some which are black and also to suit 2TG that fit nicely. I'd like to get the little bracket that bolts onto the top to keep them in order as well.

I’ve made a bit more progress stripping back the interior paint back to the og surf blue. I’ve tried a few different methods - a blade is definitely the fastest and works quite well for most of it but has a tendency to gouge the paint and leave small putting marks which doesn’t so hot. I’ve resorted to wet sanding the green off which is a lot more slow going but has a smoother result.

this is one of the drum brakes. The tapered retaining screw holes show how the holes have a different amount of metal around them. You can also see a slight difference with the stud holes as well.

Only problem that I noticed when taking the photos was that the tyres are directional and I put them on the wrong sides -doh! Gives me something else to do I guess.

I’ve also had to temporarily refit the lp918 Steelers on the back. I bought 4 widened drums to fit the rosepetal wheels but two of the drums have a hell of a wobble in them. They look like the wheel stud holes have been drilled slightly offset and on an angle do when the wheel bolts up it’s spins in and out on an angle. The rosepetals won’t fit without spacers but the Steelies have a much bigger offset so I’ve just bolted those on with the standard drums.

I had a bit of a reaction causing blistering on the offside front wing so had to redo that. It all looked good until the final coat of clear and then it wrinkled even worse than last time. I think maybe I rushed it a bit and there was a bit of moisture left in the primer after wet and dry sanding it. I sanded some of the wrinkles out but it’s pulled the primer up to the top so there are white lines in a few patches. The bonnet also came up fricken horrible - it looked great in primer but finished up pretty bad. I’m going to put a speedwell stripe across the front and a bonnet roundel which should hopefully cover up most of the badness.

Had to do it in stages as time permitted which was definitely is isn’t the best way of doing it. Though I think my spraying technique hit better towards the end.

Well I’ve finally gotten around to finishing the exterior paint. Have also moved house so have a slightly different garage setup now that includes wall to wall carpet - very nic

Untold fuel getting to the injector pump (using the manual lift pump) so I think we're clear on the pipe elbow scenario sir, but thank you for the thought.

It might be air in the lines ... but more likely the exact order of re-assembly of the teeny, weeny springs, poppet valves and diaphragm injector pump parts that sprung out onto the grass. Without warning. Like a pouncing menace Puhuhuhuhu TBH it wasn't that bad and nothing much got lost. I may have just put a poppet in on the wrong side of a spring. I have the electronic workshop manual so will check soon.

Yeah. Some of those builds you have to wonder just how much disposable income do those guys have haha

Sounds like it's got air in there somewhere still?

Pulled the front out on the weekend as I'm in chch for a month doing a shop fit out.. All ball joints to be rebuilt, calipers rebuilt, new h/brake cable, new bushes, lots of plating etc.. Should be much nicer to dive when it's all back in as pretty much every joint was fucked.. Made sure I took a photo of all the bits as I don't want a repeat of the last experience.. Spent the day driving round dropping everything off, that's they one good thing about a big(ish) city..

Is there any right angle fittings between the pump and the filter, eg at the pickup to pipe on the tank, or into the filter housing. Older trucks had right angle fittings and gunk would get stuck in the tight bend of the fitting and then catch more gunk and block the fitting up. They would be down on power, after a while drive for a bit then conk out, then not start.

Hey chaps, to partly update the JCB saga, the fuel tank was pretty grubby, the sediment filter gross but lift pump, spin on fuel filter and internal filter in the injection pump all really clean. We cleared as much gunk out of the tank and sediment filter as possible... but now she won't run for more than a few seconds so no chance to road test for power increase. I'll sort the new problem tomorrow as it'll be an assembly error (of mine) in the injection pump.

From what I've read you can go as far as 30psi through a stock maf if your an expert but is easier to tune if you run a LS v8 one once you go past about 15psi. Fortunately everyone takes these off v8s so they are cheap. I've read so much shit online but alot of it is contradicted by others. I'll work through it figure out what's really what. The map has been extended on this calibration to allow the maf to output up to 10000hz which should give me everything I need for a while.