Simon Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 That is really well done man. I have a feeling you will want to go lower than what they can do. At least I did with my ones that were basically modified exactly the same. And maybe next time get some proper nuts and sleeves haha. I'm a low freak though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 That is really well done man.I have a feeling you will want to go lower than what they can do. At least I did with my ones that were basically modified exactly the same. And maybe next time get some proper nuts and sleeves haha. I'm a low freak though. Yeah have had low. Low is ok if you can get your car out of your drive way . Lol. Lowest I want to go is 80 mm max . Have put a 17mm spacer below the shock and cut the rest out of the tube. So still have potential to cut and lower more. I used this sleeve for 2 reasons . One cheap and can weld at home . Secondly I wanted the thread tube to go above the cut and weld on the strut . Just for added security. Hopefully it works well and I dont have to re cut it. Got some camber tops today also . So full steam ahead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hope to be making some nrca's soon to help out the lower arm once installed. Just go for normal non offset RCAs, better for steering geometry etc that way.... And less room for wide wheels with NCRCAs. Can fit longer lower arms if wanting more camber, but may as well change it at the top of the strut if you want it adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hope to be making some nrca's soon to help out the lower arm once installed. Just go for normal non offset RCAs, better for steering geometry etc that way.... And less room for wide wheels with NCRCAs. Can fit longer lower arms if wanting more camber, but may as well change it at the top of the strut if you want it adjustable. Thanks for that. Is something that I haven't put allot of thought into. What are the arms that you use? And how much camber do they add? Have just bought some t3 camber tops. And I am re thinking the thread and nut combo as I have found some better suited for the job and still a good price. Will test how well these ones work and if they work well will sell them as a done finished set and make my self some new ones using the new thread and nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Have a chat to Todd about steering. Im sure he will set you right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Yeah I had a bit of chat with him the other day. Just haven't put much thought into it because was having to much fun making the adjustables ha ha ha. Yeah will have to find out what works best. Don't want to much front camber cause will just make under steer etc. But also want to keep some lower arm angle hence rcas , and I have a set that are for smaller steering arm, they are nrca type . Was going to use them as a sample and have them made with a bigger bolt pattern, vague plan at best lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thinking about it, the nrca's i have won’t change the steering at all, as the steering stays in the same place it’s only the shock that moves. i am going to have some made up , as a good friend can do this at his shop. These are some that have been made that i have had in my garage for ages . These ones are for 85mm steering arms to 90mm shock tubes, i will have some made so i can use my ta63 (90mm) setup. Want to try them out seeing as i Have them and they wont be hard to make . will also make up some normal ones that aren’t negative camber If anyone is also looking at getting either of these let me know and i will sort out a price with my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've got offset RCA's in the front of my blue car. they have been sweet and continue to do so. on a side note, when i crashed the car and smashed the strut tower into the brake booster it bent the strut but did nothing to the RCA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thinking about it, the nrca's i have won’t change the steering at all, as the steering stays in the same place it’s only the shock that moves. It increases the scrub radius. Soooo the centre line of the strut turning, is further from the centre of the contact patch of the wheel. Where as if you use longer LCAs instead, you're pushing the rotational centre of the strut further out along with the contact patch. Real life difference this makes? *shrug* probably slightly lighter steering with longer LCAs. There's a mitsi Sigma LCA that fits carina I believe. i am going to have some made up , as a good friend can do this at his shop. These are some that have been made that i have had in my garage for ages . If anyone is also looking at getting either of these let me know and i will sort out a price with my friend. You could just use those ones you've already got! Just need to fit AE85/6 steering arms, all fits up fine as I had this setup previously: But yeah, I'd be super keen if you can get some made up! They are one of the last pieces I've been looking for. Do you know what thickness he would be able to go up to? I'd be keen for the non offset type though, but that makes it simpler to make anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've got offset RCA's in the front of my blue car. they have been sweet and continue to do so.on a side note, when i crashed the car and smashed the strut tower into the brake booster it bent the strut but did nothing to the RCA. Good to know. I've always been a bit weary about how strong they are, given the consequences if one breaks or comes loose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Yeah he is a cnc tool manufacture so can make anything with what ever thickness. I need to in see him to drop off this sample. Yeah Dont want to try and find power steering ae86 arms .that will be a bitchI think. Will just get these rcas made. Will look into sigma lca today see what I can find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 This looks tough as, good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Shit son, rust repairs look fucking sweet. Sorry i didnt come over sunday, i was shattered after training i completely forgot to even swing past. Went home and hit the couch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 yeah no worries, i got quite a bit done this weekend , undecided what i am going to do with the front wind screen, not sure if i should just apply rust kill and seal it and go with that, or maybe i should just cut it out its not that far gone, but its pitted rather badly . am on the fence, maybe i should post up some pictures and get others input ? and the debit goes on about the fuel line, am going to call the car tune company tomorrow and ask for a recommendation as they will be tuning it and most of the 2nd had bits i have gotten have come from people that use them and all have recommended them as top guys to deal with . on check this out nic, once i have finished the fuel shit i will start the wiring , this is going to be next on the list of things to buy "http://www.ebay.com/itm/400295715237?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 That is some sweet rust repairs going on there.. You are quite bloody good at that. Are you going to make the exhaust headers or use stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 That is some sweet rust repairs going on there.. You are quite bloody good at that.Are you going to make the exhaust headers or use stock? Yeah thanks man. I will post a picture of my old carina. It was a mission had to rebuild the whole rear end. It taught me a lot . I have been gathering tools for a few years now so apart from making curves I can almost do anything at home. Am still learning a lot but I love welding and restoring cars its great when they come out good like this. I had to re work a lot on the last carina but it was fucked so didn't have any measurements to go from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 this car is coming along nice man Fucken awesome even Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 some pictures of my old carina , before after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Top work, that rear coilover setup looks pretty good! One thing though, isnt your front ride height gonna drop a fair bit once the motor etc etc are all back in the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Top work, that rear coilover setup looks pretty good! One thing though, isnt your front ride height gonna drop a fair bit once the motor etc etc are all back in the car? it only takes me about 3 hours to fit the entire driveline by myself ,that includes beer time too . it is all currently in the car plus a few more kgs to represent fuel and tank ,glass , battery, spare wheel, bumper boot lid etc. trying to get it to curb weight so its correct height for measuring spring compression /captivity all that shit. i have not yet cut the top mount out. still doing other little bits before i get stuck into that. i am kinda dry fitting everything so the next time i pull it all apart bits will be going to powder coaters/ getting paint on underside. New bushes etc. so I don’t have to pul it all out a million times each time I do one little bit. well thats the plan, we will see if i stick to it hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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