ajg193 Posted September 9, 2023 Posted September 9, 2023 Hi all, My nephew got a rubbish old Mazda and we will drive from akl to CHCH this coming week. It has a fault where after it warms up the engine starts cutting out for a few seconds at a time before regaining power. The rev counter still works when it dies. Possible MAF fault? Anyone on here have experience with these? Quote
R3spct Posted September 9, 2023 Posted September 9, 2023 Maybe the fuel pump? Harder to diagnose when its dying under load aye 1 Quote
tortron Posted September 9, 2023 Posted September 9, 2023 There's a variety of tools in my shed, and pickapart not far away if it'll limp to south auckland None of my cars go, so I'm usually nearby 1 2 Quote
Valiant Posted September 9, 2023 Posted September 9, 2023 Intake manifold gasket leaks were pretty common on these. They would show up when the engine got up to temp and the cold start enrichment stopped. IDK. Quote
Doug Hill Posted September 9, 2023 Posted September 9, 2023 49 minutes ago, Valiant said: Intake manifold gasket leaks were pretty common on these. They would show up when the engine got up to temp and the cold start enrichment stopped. IDK. Would be my guess too. Not sure how much knuckle juice I've left under FSDE manifolds by now Coil pack and lead failures isn't uncommon on them either 1 Quote
ajg193 Posted September 9, 2023 Author Posted September 9, 2023 Will try the old brake cleaner around the manifold gasket trick today. Manual also reckons to try disconnecting the EGR Cleaned the MAF yesterday, didn't make any difference. I can't imagine a Toyota would behave like this Quote
ajg193 Posted September 10, 2023 Author Posted September 10, 2023 The fault seems related to TPS - engine runs perfectly as soon as TPS is disconnected, apart from gearbox goes funky. However, core plug started pissing now so we had to rip intake off anyway. Quote
ajg193 Posted September 12, 2023 Author Posted September 12, 2023 The car ended up settling down after taking it for a good run. We're on the road now, about 45 mins in the Speedo started playing Anglia simulator, jumping all over the place. Five mins later it settled down again. Car must have some wet wiring somewhere 1 Quote
ajg193 Posted September 17, 2023 Author Posted September 17, 2023 The speedo wasn't working at all the next day (a few random jumps for a while and then nothing anymore) Symptom is no speedo/odometer and flashing hold light. Seems like the torque converter lockup is a bit keen to release compared to what I would expect. We tried putting a replacement pulse generator on the transmission today but it made no difference. I pulled the ECU out and cleaned all traces of potential corrosion from the PCB - no difference. Fuses all in good condition. Has anyone else had this fault? It seems a lot of the relevant forums for this car stopped existing years ago. Quote
DB8-TypeR Posted September 17, 2023 Posted September 17, 2023 Is it a mechanical speedo drive or electric Speed Sensor? Good chance you've dislodged it when mucking about with the intake manifold Quote
ajg193 Posted September 17, 2023 Author Posted September 17, 2023 It's electric, looking at parts diagrams on amayama the pulse generator is not the Speedo source. There is a second drive further along the gearbox somewhere. The workshop manual for this is absolute garbage compared to Toyota. I will try finding the drive tonight, most likely just crap in the connection Quote
ajg193 Posted September 18, 2023 Author Posted September 18, 2023 Turns out the speedo sensor is on the centre diff. Pulled it out, it feels chunky to turn and oscilloscope says no output. Will have to go to pick a part tomorrow and buy another one. In other news, the ABS light is on now. What a garbage car. Quote
BlownCorona Posted September 30, 2023 Posted September 30, 2023 I mean it seems fairly certain that the abs light being on is probably pretty related to the main source of vehicle speed being broken. Can't reference wheel speedy to vehicle speed without knowing vehicle speed. 2 Quote
ajg193 Posted September 30, 2023 Author Posted September 30, 2023 Nah, ABS light was on for some other reason. The systems are all independent in these Mazdas. We managed to steal a speedo sensor from a V6 4WD car - Amayama reckoned the 2WD and 4WD ones were the same but in real life they are actually different and the 2WD one is hard to get to. ABS fault was cleared by jumping two pins in the diagnostic box, then turning key on and waiting for a while before jumping on the brake pedal 10 times in less than 10 seconds and then shutting everything down and removing jumper. The ABS light hasn't come back on since. About a day after that the radiator started leaking, so we got a new tank put on it and core cleaned out. Two days later the battery gave up completely, new battery sorted that. Car is going well now, Andrew will take it in for a WoF tomorrow. 1 Quote
ajg193 Posted October 4, 2023 Author Posted October 4, 2023 And the tale continues. After he spent $250 on parts fixing the front brakes one of the back ones seized up on the test drive today. He's gonna have to spend some time tomorrow rebuilding the calipers and pads 1 Quote
Valiant Posted October 7, 2023 Posted October 7, 2023 Wow. Your brother brought an old car, it needs repairs. Who knew? 1 6 Quote
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