Petes mk2 Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 Hi everyone. Since starting work on my car I have a few questions that you may be able to help me with. First Do you need to have seat belts for the back seats of a car this old. The car has only 8 inch brake drums on the back. Would an upgrade to 9 inch drums be of any benefit as motor is being rebuilt so will produce more hp. I understand it is not that hard to do The doors have quite a bit of rust on the inside at the bottom. What is the best way to treat this. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted August 15, 2022 Author Share Posted August 15, 2022 Link to project build https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 For a 1977, rear seatbelts are not required as per this table Seatbelts and seatbelt anchorages - NZTA Vehicle Portal Rear brakes don't much of the work so probably not worth upgrading. Doing that would push you into needing lvvta certification, and I think you are going for stock-ish for the rest of the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 I have some doors in a similar state to yours. My plan is to scrape and vacuum/compressed air blast as much of the loose stuff out as I can. Then make a water tight trough thing just big enough to place the bottom of the door in. Then fill it with a chelation rust remover like Metal rescue or Evapo-rust, enough to cover the seam. Then leave it for as long at it needs to make the rust go away. It doesn't eat the metal, so you can just leave it for ages. This stuff really does work. But it does get used-up after a few uses. Wash it out with water, then heat it up so it's 100% dry, then flood the area with epoxy. Later,once the door is painted, probably put some cavity wax in there too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Hill Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Don't bother with a 9in drum swap, Get Safe-R-brakes to re-bond a performance lining on your current shoes, or disk conversion. Have run 9 in rears in a period spec Mk2 rally car and the biggest improvement made was with the linings, not the size of the drum. Ended up with disks anyway, rear shoes don't last long and they do a lot more work than people think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 Thanks for advice once again. Have removed drive shaft from diff flange and noticed a small amount of oil seep out. Has not continued but is this normal or do I need to replace seal. It is a Timkin type diff. Also how much play should there be when you turn flange by hand. When I turned it, it moved about 20 mm before load came on. Regards removing the engine should I drain the oil out of it. The motor is not going back into this car and maybe sitting around for a while. Are there any other thing I should do before storage. cheers Peter Link to project build https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2marty Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 On 03/10/2022 at 11:01, Petes mk2 said: Thanks for advice once again. Have removed drive shaft from diff flange and noticed a small amount of oil seep out. Has not continued but is this normal or do I need to replace seal. It is a Timkin type diff. Also how much play should there be when you turn flange by hand. When I turned it, it moved about 20 mm before load came on. Regards removing the engine should I drain the oil out of it. The motor is not going back into this car and maybe sitting around for a while. Are there any other thing I should do before storage. cheers Peter Link to project build https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579 Being a 1600 Sport it should have had 9" rear drums from OE, although yours is a very early production model so it's possible that it didn't get them. Odd. In terms of the oil from the pinion flange, it sounds like it's working its way up the splines on the drive flange, which these are known to do. Replacing the pinion seal won't help this, but a judicious amount of silicon sealer in the splines will stop it. That does mean the flange has to come off and the pinion nut loosened, which unless you're careful and get it back in the right place will upset the pinion bearing preload. Too much and you'll collapse the bearing spacer further, which means pulling the final drive apart to fix. The silicone will probably also mean the drive flange is harder to get off in future, but meh, it's better than an oil leak. As for the backlash, if the axle isn't noisy personally I wouldn't worry about it, a used Timken axle does usually have a bit of backlash. Depends on what you're doing with the car/how deep your pockets are, though. Here are some possibly useful bits from the Ford book (the pictures are of a Salisbury, but the principles are the same): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Thanks Marty for all the information about the diff. Sounds like I just need some silicone when I put it back together and see how it performs. With regards to the 8"-9" drum brakes, I found some old receipts that said the car had a new 1600 engine fitted when its speedo was 15168. I also have the New Vehicle Invoice which states model is, 1977 Ford Escort and the body is Sport. Cost $5955 new. No mention of motor size but could it have been a 1300. That would explain the 8' drum brakes. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted November 21, 2022 Author Share Posted November 21, 2022 Would like to remove Stabiliser bar so I can clean up the mounting bracket. Can I take it off and still be able to move car around without causing any damage? Also could someone tell me what the cones are for in the headlight bucket? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 21, 2022 Share Posted November 21, 2022 6 minutes ago, Petes mk2 said: Would like to remove Stabiliser bar so I can clean up the mounting bracket. Can I take it off and still be able to move car around without causing any damage? Also could someone tell me what the cones are for in the headlight bucket? Cheers Cones probably protect the headlight adjustment screws from dirt and gunk thrown up by the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 The dash pad has a few cracks in it. If anyone can suggest the best way of repairing this that would be great. Also looking for someone to check over my manual gearbox in Christchurch. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jusepy82 Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 Hey man , nice escort ! There is a guy on youtube that has done the front wing/guard repair and has done it stage by stage so you can see how it is done. Check it out , makes it look pretty simple using cardboard cutouts as templates. I started doing my guard following his directions and so far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 Thanks for the link to video. It was very interesting and sure he would have used a similar technique to repair guard. As mentioned I need to start thinking about what colour i'm going to paint her. Have been told present colour is Olympic Blue but not sure. Can anyone help with deciphering tag. Someone else said present colour is not a 1600 Sport colour. What do you think? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2marty Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 According to my info, the tag decodes as follows: C=Ford UK CKD kit A=Auckland (Wiri) assembly plant A=Escort T=Two door sedan T=1977 production year P=April production month 85878= unique 5-digit identifier Model: A=Escort Drive: 2= right-hand drive Engine: J3= 1300 2V Kent engine Trans: B= 4-speed manual, floor shift Axle: D= 4.125:1 ratio final drive Trim: P = unsure, this code isn't in my chart, but early Sports to my knowledge used cloth seat trim from an Escort GL with vinyl door trims, of either beige or brown. Paint: 7=1977 code L=electrocoat primer 2=Taubmans paint vendor EF= I think this is Olympic Blue, based on research of NZ-assembled Escorts I've seen over the years. We had unique paint codes (because local production), so overseas manuals and colour charts don't translate here. Unfortunately, the guy I knew with the proper list of NZ paint codes just passed away over the weekend, so I can't ask him. 1= again, unsure. A lot of cars didn't have a number here. SVC ST=December 1976 CKD kit generated. So in essence, that tag belongs to a 1977 Escort 1300 Sport, and the powder blue colour is likely pretty close to what it had originally. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 Thanks for that Marty. More than I could find out on net. All makes sense as I have paper work that says motor was changed when car had only 15000km on the clock. Has beige vinyl door cards. For your interest a new 1600 motor cost $2013 in 1986 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted May 26, 2023 Author Share Posted May 26, 2023 Have been replacing clutch release bearing and have noticed that anti rattle bush is missing of pivot post. just wondering what is the best way to fix this . Can you remove post to replace. Have found a replacement part on Burtons site but there must be a local way of fixing this. Any ideas would be appricated. Also any thoughts on painting sills and front valance back verses leaving them blue. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOTAHO Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 Haven't seen a bush, maybe grab some nylon and make one? Use satin black to repaint those areas I find is nicest or leave em blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 It is a lovely colour I must agree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes mk2 Posted June 15, 2023 Author Share Posted June 15, 2023 Have been making a start on wiring loom, If anyone has knowledge of Sports wiring and can confirm this is the loom for spotlights . There is a relay mounted on the inside of guard with two earths. Further down there is red wire for positive power, Next a white wire comes off with a connector unknown ?. At the end there are two pairs of wires, (brown and black) (brown and blue) which I think must go to spotlights which didn't come with car. Is this correct. What is the white wire for and I presume there is a switch connected to other side of relay. Should I replace relay as looking a bit shabby ? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 25, 2023 Share Posted June 25, 2023 Looking very pretty, I like the colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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