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Petes Mk2 Escort 1600 Sports


Petes mk2

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Hi  everyone. Since starting work on my car I have a few questions that you may be able to help me with. First

Do you need to have seat belts for the back seats of a car this old.

The car has only 8 inch brake drums on the back. Would an upgrade to 9 inch drums be of any benefit as motor is being rebuilt so will produce more hp. I understand it is not that hard to do

The doors have quite a bit of rust on the inside at the bottom. What is the best way to treat this.

Cheers Peter

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I have some doors in a similar state to yours. My plan is to scrape and vacuum/compressed air blast as much of the loose stuff out as I can. Then make a water tight trough thing just big enough to place the bottom of the door in. Then fill it with a chelation rust remover like Metal rescue or Evapo-rust, enough to cover the seam. Then leave it for as long at it needs to make the rust go away. It doesn't eat the metal, so you can just leave it for ages.

This stuff really does work. But it does get used-up after a few uses.

Wash it out with water, then heat it up so it's 100% dry, then flood the area with epoxy. Later,once the door is painted, probably put some cavity wax in there too.

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Don't bother with a 9in drum swap, 

Get Safe-R-brakes to re-bond a performance lining on your current shoes, or disk conversion. 

Have run 9 in rears in a period spec Mk2 rally car and the biggest improvement made was with the linings, not the size of the drum. Ended up with disks anyway, rear shoes don't last long  and they do a lot more work than people think. 

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Thanks for advice once again. Have removed drive shaft from diff flange and noticed a small amount of oil seep out.  Has not continued but is this normal or do I need to replace seal. It is a Timkin type diff. Also how much play should there be when you turn flange by hand. When I turned it, it moved about 20 mm before load came on.

Regards removing the engine should I drain the oil out of it. The motor is not going back into this car and maybe sitting around for a while. Are there any other thing I should do before storage. cheers Peter

Link to project build

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579

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On 03/10/2022 at 11:01, Petes mk2 said:

Thanks for advice once again. Have removed drive shaft from diff flange and noticed a small amount of oil seep out.  Has not continued but is this normal or do I need to replace seal. It is a Timkin type diff. Also how much play should there be when you turn flange by hand. When I turned it, it moved about 20 mm before load came on.

Regards removing the engine should I drain the oil out of it. The motor is not going back into this car and maybe sitting around for a while. Are there any other thing I should do before storage. cheers Peter

Link to project build

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579

Being a 1600 Sport it should have had 9" rear drums from OE, although yours is a very early production model so it's possible that it didn't get them. Odd. 

In terms of the oil from the pinion flange, it sounds like it's working its way up the splines on the drive flange, which these are known to do. Replacing the pinion seal won't help this, but a judicious amount of silicon sealer in the splines will stop it. That does mean the flange has to come off and the pinion nut loosened, which unless you're careful and get it back in the right place will upset the pinion bearing preload. Too much and you'll collapse the bearing spacer further, which means pulling the final drive apart to fix. The silicone will probably also mean the drive flange is harder to get off in future, but meh, it's better than an oil leak. 

As for the backlash, if the axle isn't noisy personally I wouldn't worry about it, a used Timken axle does usually have a bit of backlash. Depends on what you're doing with the car/how deep your pockets are, though.

Here are some possibly useful bits from the Ford book (the pictures are of a Salisbury, but the principles are the same):

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Thanks Marty for all the information about the diff. Sounds like I just need some silicone when I put it back together and see how it performs.

With regards to the 8"-9" drum brakes, I found some old receipts that said the car had a new 1600 engine fitted when its speedo was 15168.  I also have the New Vehicle Invoice which states model is, 1977 Ford Escort and the body is Sport. Cost $5955 new.  No mention of motor size but could it have been a 1300. That would explain the 8' drum brakes. Cheers

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  • 1 month later...
6 minutes ago, Petes mk2 said:

Would like to remove Stabiliser bar so I can clean up the mounting bracket. Can I take it off and still be able to move car around without causing any damage?

Also could someone tell me what the cones are for in the headlight bucket?

Cheers

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Cones probably protect the headlight adjustment screws from dirt and gunk thrown up by the wheels.

 

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Hey man , nice escort !

There is a guy on youtube that has done the front wing/guard repair and has done it stage by stage so you can see how it is done.

Check it out , makes it look pretty simple using cardboard cutouts as templates.  I started doing my guard following his directions and so far so good.

 

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Thanks for the link to video. It was very interesting and sure he would have used a similar technique to repair guard.

As mentioned I need to start thinking about what colour i'm going to paint her. Have been told present colour is Olympic Blue but not sure.  Can anyone help with deciphering tag. Someone else said present colour is not a 1600 Sport colour. What do you think?

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According to my info, the tag decodes as follows: 
C=Ford UK CKD kit
A=Auckland (Wiri) assembly plant
A=Escort
T=Two door sedan
T=1977 production year
P=April production month
85878= unique 5-digit identifier

Model:
A=Escort

Drive: 2= right-hand drive
Engine: J3= 1300 2V Kent engine
Trans: B= 4-speed manual, floor shift
Axle: D= 4.125:1 ratio final drive
Trim: P = unsure, this code isn't in my chart, but early Sports to my knowledge used cloth seat trim from an Escort GL with vinyl door trims, of either beige or brown.  

Paint:
7=1977 code
L=electrocoat primer
2=Taubmans paint vendor
EF= I think this is Olympic Blue, based on research of NZ-assembled Escorts I've seen over the years. We had unique paint codes (because local production), so overseas manuals and colour charts don't translate here. Unfortunately, the guy I knew with the proper list of NZ paint codes just passed away over the weekend, so I can't ask him. 
1= again, unsure. A lot of cars didn't have a number here. 

SVC
ST=December 1976 CKD kit generated.

So in essence, that tag belongs to a 1977 Escort 1300 Sport, and the powder blue colour is likely pretty close to what it had originally. 
 

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Thanks for that Marty. More than I could find out on net. All makes sense as I have paper work that says motor was changed when car had only 15000km on the clock. Has beige vinyl door cards. For your interest a new 1600 motor cost $2013 in 1986 

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Have been replacing clutch release bearing  and have noticed that anti rattle bush is missing of pivot post. just wondering what is the best way to fix this . Can you remove post to replace. Have found a replacement part on Burtons site but there must be a local way of fixing this. Any ideas would be appricated.

Also any thoughts on painting sills and front valance back verses leaving them blue.

Cheers

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Have been making a start on wiring loom, If anyone has knowledge of Sports wiring and can confirm this is the loom for spotlights . There is a relay mounted on the inside of guard with two earths. Further down there is red wire for positive power, Next a white wire comes off with a connector unknown ?. At the end there are two pairs of wires, (brown and black) (brown and blue) which I think must go to spotlights which didn't come with car. Is this correct. What is the white wire for and I presume there is a switch connected to other side of relay. Should I replace relay as looking a bit shabby ?

Cheers Peter

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