Tiger Tamer Posted June 26, 2022 Share Posted June 26, 2022 Discussion thread for my Minx project. Link to Tiger Tamers 1964 Hillman Minx Project - Projects and Build Ups - oldschool.co.nzProjects and build up thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 Small miss fit with the input shaft bearing to deal with. These are the bearings supplied with the bell housing for a Toyota R151 gearbox. Best way to go about it would be a help. Cheers TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 Makita hand lathe. chuck the driveshaft into the box, slap it in gear and get someone to spin it while you expertly lathe it down with a flap disc. I have personally used this method before and that particular setup is still ticking along 18 years later. Or take the bearing into your local bearing shop and try and get one matched up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted August 26, 2022 Author Share Posted August 26, 2022 I did have thoughts of the hand lathe. Might give it a go. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Paint colour decision time as I am going to need to paint the engine bay in the near future. The paint on the car is respectable but it is only a reasonable enamel respray. It's going to stay green so originally I thought I might go with the dark British racing green in metallic, like the newer mini's are painted in. Then I saw the ad on the TV for the new Kia sportage called jungle wood green , more a mid green and quite like that perhaps with a black roof with some gold fleck added in. Then there is the green on the original mini in the bottom pic which is nice. Also think the wheels would look better as a dark shadow chrome with a polished rim. I will add photos as I find them. Whad'a think ?. First pic as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Have you seen the urchfab 105e? Mushy pea green, that would suit it nicely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 I will have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VitesseEFI Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 On 25/08/2022 at 07:51, Tiger Tamer said: Best way to go about it would be a help. Just buy the right bearing. Looks like it should be 12mm. Likely less than 10 bucks even for a decent quality one. What on earth is 10.89mm anyway?? Don’t mod the gearbox as then it’ll be wrong/different for ever more and catch you out next time (guess how I know that!) Nick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 It kind of looks like the release fork should be in the groove forward of the bearing, as per crude scribble attached? Not right at the back? Also on my Honda I shimmed the pivot ball outwards, although I had the opposite problem with fine tuning of the clutch engagement window.. this may or may not be an option? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 I concur with the above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted May 9, 2023 Author Share Posted May 9, 2023 Thanks for your replies. It doesn't look right does it but these are the supplied parts. It can't fit in that space and if it did it would be putting the load directly on the back of the bearing. I have sent them photo's but according to the instructions these parts should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 Ooh yeah that isn't going to work.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 What the fork… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted May 10, 2023 Author Share Posted May 10, 2023 I bought all the parts over a year ago from Niteparts so I sent them an email end of the day yesterday, and received a reply first thing this morning . It seems all is well and I need to trim the cyl rod to length. The piston should be pushed into the bore about 2/3 of it's length and then trim the rod to length. That was the info i needed to get it the correct length. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 14, 2023 Share Posted May 14, 2023 Does that coolant line from the back of the head have a bracket back to the block? I reckon it might need one if it doesn't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted May 15, 2023 Author Share Posted May 15, 2023 23 hours ago, mjrstar said: Does that coolant line from the back of the head have a bracket back to the block? I reckon it might need one if it doesn't. No it doesn't, but a good idea thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 I have been thinking about the fuel system lately. I am going to need to get the happy juice to the engine. I see that Honda had a regulated non return system set at 60psi. The fuel tank is mounted under the boot floor and its fuel exit is from the bottom of the tank as normal for car with a mechanical fuel pump. I am going to have to fit a surge tank of some sort. Some surge tanks have internal pumps though I am not sure why they have more than one. If a surge tank has two pumps, is one to bring fuel from the tank to the surge tank and the other to supply it to the engine ?. My initial thought was to mount a plain surge tank in the boot with a pump supplying it as the surge tank will be higher than the fuel tank, and then another supplying the engine. If I have a regulator set at 60psi then I shouldn't need a return line. Not having to plumb a return line would be helpful. Returning it all the way back to the tank would be a bit of a pain and then you have to plumb it in. Then if I used a surge tank with two pumps in it, would it replace the two external pumps, which would save a lot of external mounting and fabrication, noise etc. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 Is there an option to modify the tank to accept a swirl pot/internal baffle, and run a matched Honda OEM in tank pump? Mostly OEM EFI tanks don't have a spectacular array of internal baffles and seem to do the trick down to low levels.. External pumps are inherently noisy compared to submerged pumps, if you have to run a surge tank then I reckon one with the pump internally mounted would be my pick.. In my mind I guess a returnless system might be prone to heating the fuel and possible vapour lock, but OEM are smart enough for this to not be a problem, but they might do stuff like speed control of the pump to slow the flow at low consumption, or an in tank pump with internal bypass? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 15 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said: I have been thinking about the fuel system lately. I am going to need to get the happy juice to the engine. I see that Honda had a regulated non return system set at 60psi. The fuel tank is mounted under the boot floor and its fuel exit is from the bottom of the tank as normal for car with a mechanical fuel pump. I am going to have to fit a surge tank of some sort. Some surge tanks have internal pumps though I am not sure why they have more than one. If a surge tank has two pumps, is one to bring fuel from the tank to the surge tank and the other to supply it to the engine ?. My initial thought was to mount a plain surge tank in the boot with a pump supplying it as the surge tank will be higher than the fuel tank, and then another supplying the engine. If I have a regulator set at 60psi then I shouldn't need a return line. Not having to plumb a return line would be helpful. Returning it all the way back to the tank would be a bit of a pain and then you have to plumb it in. Then if I used a surge tank with two pumps in it, would it replace the two external pumps, which would save a lot of external mounting and fabrication, noise etc. Cheers Most fuel pumps don't like sucking (they need to have a head of petrol above them), so the 2nd pump in a surge tank is for those cars that need a higher volume of fuel sent to the rail (or redundancy for race cars). I run a proper lift pump in the main tank so that it can run dry without killing it and it's not doing as much work as a high pressure fuel pump. In particular I run this one: https://msel.co.nz/fuel-pump-low-pressure-in-tank/ I ran returnless setup when I had the 3sge engine + altezza fuel pump in my car (it was retro fitted into the existing starlet tank), all you need is an in tank regulator which looks like this: (heaps of OEM options) it's just a fixed regulator. I would recommend a fuel dampener on the rail as well as we saw some interesting spikes with my k20 on the dyno when the injectors closed. The advantage with return style is that if you are running a supercharger/turbo you can have the regulator in the engine bay referenced to manifold pressure, so you can increase the pressure as boost goes up. If you plan to always stay NA then returnless will be perfectly fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 12 hours ago, mjrstar said: Is there an option to modify the tank to accept a swirl pot/internal baffle, and run a matched Honda OEM in tank pump? Mostly OEM EFI tanks don't have a spectacular array of internal baffles and seem to do the trick down to low levels.. External pumps are inherently noisy compared to submerged pumps, if you have to run a surge tank then I reckon one with the pump internally mounted would be my pick.. In my mind I guess a returnless system might be prone to heating the fuel and possible vapour lock, but OEM are smart enough for this to not be a problem, but they might do stuff like speed control of the pump to slow the flow at low consumption, or an in tank pump with internal bypass? I knew I was looking at it a bit simplistically as in not running a return line. The guy in Canada that put a S2000 engine in his Minx used the in tank pump from the Honda into his tank I think. I will have a look at his build thread and see what he has done. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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