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Goat's Laverda 1000


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Right, so cylinder head turned up from Australia. Yay.
It also came with a few other goodies for the restoration. Still missing heaps of bits, but should have enough to assemble the bottom end!

A few weekends ago, I popped round to old mate @kicker and used his sand blaster to tidy up my cases as my sandblaster is at my folks house, and that is an hour and a half away.
I could only fit the bottom case in, but it came out just perfect.

The finish is ideal, not too bright like vapour blasting, and not too dull like sand blasting. You can see the difference here:


You can see the differences between the two finishes below (ignore the low definition sandcasting, yay for italy)


Not pretty:

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So i started cleaning the gearsets and laying them out. They had been in plastic bags and covered in grease since 1995. So was good to get all that off.
I had noticed earlier that the layshaft 5th gear had some damage, so ordered one of those. That turned up with my head from Australia.

Stripped and cleaned the selector mechanism too. This bike is as stripped as its ever going to be.


Inside of the case got a good clean out ready for it all to go back in:



When cleaning all the gearsets I noticed 4th gear mainshaft also had some damage. Quite a few of the teeth look like below. Do i replace this? Or pop it in and send it?
Don't want a tooth breaking off and going through the box. But a new gear is $$. Help a fella understand!


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9 minutes ago, tortron said:

Damage or factory QC casting? 

Not sure? Looks like fatigue maybe? The gear i replaced was like that on every single tooth. And quite a bit worse. All the other gears seem ok.

20 minutes ago, Nominal said:

How much $$$ if it does break and munch the gearbox?

I suppose its not the end of the world to get a replacement now. It's my Scottish and Dutch heritage rearing its head.... Can probably get one for a couple of hundred bux. Peace of mind....
I need to order new shims, circlips and that micro roller bearing for 1st gear. So its not like its holding me up.

What IS holding me up is my verniers battery is flat, and i don't have non digital ones. God damn it, i need to measure existing shims, which all seem to be concave (i'm sure theyre not meant to be).
This bike has had an incredibly rough life up until it was pulled down and bagged up in the early 90s.

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That's the case surface starting to break off. It won't lock the box up if a tooth goes - but you've gone this far....I'm sure Red can supply a better one.

You've said nothing about the internal bronze bushes condition. If they're too slack this is the time to replace them. Did you crack test the mainshaft ?

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Getting the box to work turning the selector drum is the easy bit, lol.  It's getting the mechanism in the side cover to index correctly once the covers are on that's the hard part. There's an offset pin the hooked bits pivot on which lets you set them approx equal sides of the pins in the drum. But it may work better biased one way or the other - trial and error.  Most put it in 3rd gear and equalise the gaps at that as a starting point.

The critical part of that linkage is the spring in the "elbow" joint. It's all that holds the linkage in contact with the drum. Must be in good nick.


I had enough in the end with the race bike. It now runs Kawasaki selector mechanism. Doesn't miss hurried changes.

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