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Tomble's 1983 Starion GSR-X fumbling / hand-holding / discussion


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17 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

woah wasn't expecting it to be stripped this far but good work!

Im glad you had a great experience getting the sound deadening off as i did it just with a sharp chisel. mine was time consuming and sucked. 

also definitely try and clean the car prior to blasting some good degreaser and a water blaster would be the go. 

also providing the car doesn't have any rust in major structural areas. and wont need any metal work in those areas before the car gets sent for blasting spray all in the cavities of the shell with a product called brunox. you can buy it in a spray can or 1 litre container. which you can also thin out if need be. will prevent the vehicle rusting from inside out 

https://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1562-brunox-epoxy-rust-killer/category/301-brunox

And buy a underseal gun to spray it through all the holes through the chassis rails sills and pillars like something like these. but you will need a hose with a nozzle to get all in there 

 https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-body-deadener-spray-gun/576116.html

 http://www.prolan.co.nz/product_details/d/1/c/57/p/80 i got one of these but somehow paid a whole less than just looking online and it came with the hose too as its normally and extra item. but this may have been an error from the panel supplies i got it from.

because doing this after it being blasted is likely to glue all the sandblasting garnet in there. as it gets literally everywhere which could cause more rust if moisture gets in. then after the car has been painted spray some cavity wax in the same places prior to full reassembly.   

also what's your plan now for moving the shell now there is no drivetrain? 

Great idea, does that brunox can you linked screw directly on to the SCA style gun?  

The blaster has his own trolley to move the car. 

Once it's back from him we don't really need to move it as a priority... it can sit there while we noodle around.  At some point it needs to go to the panelbeaters but I'm hoping they'll have a trolley too?

If not, worst case is we paint and deaden the underside and prioritise putting the suspension back on.  Which I guess shouldn't just be the existing shite if possible, if need be we could slap it back on as-is but I'd rather get it all spruced up first.  So this'd be the long route :D

 

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5 hours ago, tomble said:

Great idea, does that brunox can you linked screw directly on to the SCA style gun?  

The blaster has his own trolley to move the car. 

Once it's back from him we don't really need to move it as a priority... it can sit there while we noodle around.  At some point it needs to go to the panelbeaters but I'm hoping they'll have a trolley too?

If not, worst case is we paint and deaden the underside and prioritise putting the suspension back on.  Which I guess shouldn't just be the existing shite if possible, if need be we could slap it back on as-is but I'd rather get it all spruced up first.  So this'd be the long route :D

 

 Ah dang it appears it probably wont due to the length of the bottle and size of lid. measured the brunox lid and its 63mm. but there might be a product similar to brunox that comes in a 1 litre that connects to the SCA gun but would have to do some research. and many cavity waxes and body underseal connect to the SCA style gun.

oh sweet. most standard panel beaters i would think wouldn't have a trolley but if the shop does resto type work then probably would.

otherwise was going to suggest that you buy a set of 4 castors and make some brackets and bolt them to the front and rear chassis rails so the car is easy to move around. As i was thinking moving your bare shell for transport wont be very easy. 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-1203-quick-tech-body-casters

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/215086-please-share-your-body-dolly-designs/#comments

some ideas for you. 

that way moving the shell around is easy for transport and the panel and paint shops and for you of course.

Also feel free to PM me if you need any advise or help with something. or just ask around on the many topics on the forum and someone will help you.  

 

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10 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

 Ah dang it appears it probably wont due to the length of the bottle and size of lid. measured the brunox lid and its 63mm. but there might be a product similar to brunox that comes in a 1 litre that connects to the SCA gun but would have to do some research. and many cavity waxes and body underseal connect to the SCA style gun.

oh sweet. most standard panel beaters i would think wouldn't have a trolley but if the shop does resto type work then probably would.

otherwise was going to suggest that you buy a set of 4 castors and make some brackets and bolt them to the front and rear chassis rails so the car is easy to move around. As i was thinking moving your bare shell for transport wont be very easy. 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-1203-quick-tech-body-casters

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/215086-please-share-your-body-dolly-designs/#comments

some ideas for you. 

that way moving the shell around is easy for transport and the panel and paint shops and for you of course.

Also feel free to PM me if you need any advise or help with something. or just ask around on the many topics on the forum and someone will help you.  

 

<3 I saw the cavity wax.  I guess it doesn't hold up to brunox?  

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On 29/09/2021 at 08:09, ProZac said:

Just caught up on your latest progress, whoa, that's turned into a full resto, noice!

Those seatbelts, front wiper cowl and seat adjuster bits are still sitting on my bench at work. Bloody hell I'm slack sorry!

As long as they're on a bench and not in a bin I'm happy :). All in good time.

I think this was always going to be a full resto of some kind.  It definitely was always going to go down to "no rust or shite anywhere" level, but yeah I guess it has some boiled frog qualities.

The question was how nice it'd go back up to... I assumed it'd be decent looking but maybe a bit rough and beat up, but then I snaffled some NOS indicators off of Bryce and apparently black requires some quality panelbeating work.  So it's definitely angling towards proper resto now.  That said, I'm still not married to the concept of what's traditional/OEM so that can definitely change along the line.

PXL_20210929_042627833.thumb.jpg.ecac69dc830efc49a85000d18300d68c.jpg

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1 hour ago, tomble said:

As long as they're on a bench and not in a bin I'm happy :). All in good time.

I think this was always going to be a full resto of some kind.  It definitely was always going to go down to "no rust or shite anywhere" level, but yeah I guess it has some boiled frog qualities.

The question was how nice it'd go back up to... I assumed it'd be decent looking but maybe a bit rough and beat up, but then I snaffled some NOS indicators off of Bryce and apparently black requires some quality panelbeating work.  So it's definitely angling towards proper resto now.  That said, I'm still not married to the concept of what's traditional/OEM so that can definitely change along the line.

BMnozRx4h4M5Asj7omG3ZofyWnxVdtJxOSuGvYWMGHQxppuj-P_oYfBdq1IUiuA-L7U80fdLoclMP8cq6r6hO5hr4qQSoQc4Rn8IcdLPj3lOx0c7EoonXGUK3ItBoh2BkC4mKSAur6WgsgJsy5vFTN5wW-96QEL-PbyWc11EmbF1FiIWxZgbQDUT_UAdaToeliWBwdzyfXN-CCrrLObrKCCMLM4cpoPk-3nt4lXPJ8Rsp2SAS3Y2Ir5AmNBgwzc_Vvq3B8iRtTKUo3uqYuweiZAIUvc0QmyalvhO2wXQRo55muyt8qCQNTpUWjoBil9Jnd4qnbVDdiKxL5NPeUUJCNjC5mBLfWzE0IpmBN3G-6WzpBkBHgYUjpjRwhTtgnBo5k2T4k6JlvUoDgTcRS2nZxTdInXbgxmEn0SgQxUgEgQow2M0H2lFFiynonV4rRNqKnNYGacnY6nZRuzEJeWkT_xSlMaHlrZh3X5BiCqJbnk3nNKSBY3G-XUVm0qEFg27fNFI_Fapn_uoOT9s8B4T82lhlBsXPdT7bxK-L4xNafzBlWynxWl7T6Bw7ffAQ7slmf-SxIAWa2kyettvAUYw_81R2UD4uZY9nBB4fyeG2UIyopJfYSV6zabTDZJe5zk66RlEutMFC8rRyHShTtK9ocUNPSmx6rVlZ5uCDgN1Yw60kc1fP2LRHHVbZap4BhK6S7mqXaEy-fwMzFBmTfjseDwv=w1489-h1117-no?authuser=0

Linking to google photos only works for a few hours.

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58 minutes ago, ProZac said:

Hah, Bryce bought those indicators off me 10+ years ago ;-). I nabbed them over from the states if I remember correctly.

Rofl, my car's going to be made up of your collection by the time I'm done!

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Thanks @piazzanoob, I took your advice and have sprayed as many cavities as I can that don't look like they can get spray gun'd.  I spent some time trying to find a more frugal alternative but in the end just bought an air boy underseal gun and cavity wax extension hose.  Also went through the whole container of brunox :).  And am sticky.

image.png.0856be1b346c8f7695557cd7daca4ac0.png

Not really any exciting pics to show, the brunox itself is almost transparent going on and tbh the cavities I can look into seem no different :shrug: but it's obvious that this will extend the life of the car significantly.  Some of the cavities ran past areas with significant surface rust as well which feels good to attack from the other side.

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I generally thin brunox 1:1 with gp thinners when I spray it through the airboy.  Helps it go furthur because its expensive and also helps it run into the tight pinch-weld seams. 

Also, brunox requires multiple coats to do its thing. Once its turns a dark purple/almost black on rusty areas its good. 

Good work though. 

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1 hour ago, RXFORD said:

I generally thin brunox 1:1 with gp thinners when I spray it through the airboy.  Helps it go furthur because its expensive and also helps it run into the tight pinch-weld seams. 

Also, brunox requires multiple coats to do its thing. Once its turns a dark purple/almost black on rusty areas its good. 

Good work though. 

Brunox is a product that I cant seem to get any one to say anything definitive about. The panel beater that told me about it didn't rate the way it played with any top coats he used, he reckoned to sand it away until it basically only filled whatever pitting you'd already worked. 

My brother who painted cars reckoned it didn't actually convert rust.

Some people on this forum reckon it outright sucks.

I've painted the stuff on surface rust and clean steel, multiple coats, some of it has held up and some of it has new rust underneath the brunox on what was clean steel. Cant sy where I sit with the stuff or whether I'm just using it wrong.

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27 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Brunox is a product that I cant seem to get any one to say anything definitive about. The panel beater that told me about it didn't rate the way it played with any top coats he used, he reckoned to sand it away until it basically only filled whatever pitting you'd already worked. 

My brother who painted cars reckoned it didn't actually convert rust.

Some people on this forum reckon it outright sucks.

I've painted the stuff on surface rust and clean steel, multiple coats, some of it has held up and some of it has new rust underneath the brunox on what was clean steel. Cant sy where I sit with the stuff or whether I'm just using it wrong.

I think people just have too high of an expectation. Its not a miracle 'rust be gone' liquid, its just a coating that slows/stops the growth of rust. Its better than nothing, and there are not many other products thay are easy to use and don't have a stupid proceedure where you have to wash it off with water. 

And yeh, you don't top coat over it. Its a good product to spray in pinch weld seams and cavities that are hard to get thicker paint/primer into.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

let me do some checking - I know of one in Methven, well I actually own it but haven't seen it in about 4 years and don't know what has happened to it. It've kept the rego on hold but it also has rust etc. A mate has it but has moved, his wife was getting sick of it etc so I need to find out whats up with it. 1982 GSR 1 Jap import - no power steer or electric windows, motor supposed rebuilt ~2000km ago by previous owner but hardly run in the last 10 years.

 

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10 hours ago, insanebrain said:

let me do some checking - I know of one in Methven, well I actually own it but haven't seen it in about 4 years and don't know what has happened to it. It've kept the rego on hold but it also has rust etc. A mate has it but has moved, his wife was getting sick of it etc so I need to find out whats up with it. 1982 GSR 1 Jap import - no power steer or electric windows, motor supposed rebuilt ~2000km ago by previous owner but hardly run in the last 10 years.

 

Yeah please do!

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12 hours ago, insanebrain said:

So I got hold of the guy storing the car, great news for me but bad news for you, the car is now in his shed being worked on by him and his teenage son.

:D Thanks for checking.  I guess that's karma as my Starion was taken from a father and son too!

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