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Shakotoms CB360


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Picture this, It’s March 2019, you’ve just got back into the country after spending 3 weeks riding motorcycles in Malaysia and Thailand. You’re watching the days tick by as in a week, you’re about to fly to America for a month for a Holiday with your partner.

You’ve got a 1986 Yamaha FZR250 in the shed, It’s an inline four cylinder sports bike with 45 horsepower, and a exhaust note that sounds like a formula one car as it runs out to its 18000rpm redline. 
It’s great, you’ve been using it to commute on and done the odd weekend thrash run with it which is great, power delivery is fun, and it rides well, but being 6ft tall after a couple of hours in the saddle, your hips start getting uncomfortable.



It’s now the Friday before you fly out, and something catches your eye on trade me...


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Fast forward two days to the morning of the Sunday that you’re flying to America, and you find yourself driving across to the other side of town with a trailer attached to your car to look at a ‘unfinished cafe racer’


It had been sitting since 2013, Didn’t run, had had the usual remove all the lights and slap some clip ons on, then loose interest cafe racer attempt done to It, and was missing a bunch of parts but, it had rego on hold.





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I called it having rego on hold, and needing saving a good enough reason to justify purchasing when compared to most of the other early Honda CBs that I had been looking at. As a bonus, it was incomplete enough that I could change a few things on it as I wished and not feel bad about wrecking a tidy bike, plus the poor modifications moved the bike down into my budget.


With that a deal was struck, I strapped it to my trailer and rushed back across town to hide it away in the garage before going to the airport a couple of hours later to jump on a plane.

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After I got back from America, I listed the FZR250 and sold it, got side tracked with the rest of the year / moving out / life /other shitty bikes and left the CB360 sitting sad in the corner.

That brings us to the present, 

I ordered a few basic bits from 4into1 to try get this thing going / back on the road for summer 2021.


And made a start on getting it going.



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Currently plan is get it running, take it in to see what it needs for a WOF.

However, the fork top triple clamp has previously been welded up but has cracked again. If anyone has any leads on one to suit a CB360 it would be greatly appreciated.



Tdlr : Shakotom buys another project bike, leaves it sitting and does nothing to it then rushes to get it ready in a short time frame

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The brakes were well seized on to the point it was difficult to push around. Pulled the calliper off and couldn’t even get the pads out due to the amount of corrosion on/around them. I ended up having to hydraulic the lot out with a grease gun resulting in this mess.


I spent some time with the parts cleaner/scotchbrite and a hone at work and it came up very good. -Bore is mint, Seal groove came up well, and exterior has some slight corrosion, but no pitting and surfaces are all smooth.


Jammed it together with a new seal, piston and pads.


Have taken some measurements, and am going to box the old brake hoses up to get a new one made to suit bars/ replacement master cylinder.



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  • 3 weeks later...

I sent the original brake hose/pressure switch down to Apex automotive in Hamilton as per Callum’s recommendation to get a new hose made that goes directly from the master to the brake calliper. -new master I ordered has a switch integrated in it. A couple of days later, my box returned with a fresh braided brake hose made to my specs. Rushed home from work, assembled the brakes and found that it turns out that at some point, the front brake calliper has been barryed and a imperial grease nipple fitted instead of a proper bleed nipple. And of course, now the brakes work the nipple doesn’t seal. 
Luckily a guy I know had a few CB parts kicking around and happened to have a spare calliper. Cue round 2 of calliper rebuild with cleaning and swapping my piston and seal into this housing. 
Assembled and bled brakes with no issues this time.

Also managed to acquire another top clamp that wasn’t broken so have swapped this over too along with new rubber bushes for the bar mounts which got rid of all the slop/movement the old hard ones had



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Attached handlebars, spent an hour making a mount for the headlight and I’m pretty sure it’s still crooked. Attached small trademe special speedo assembly which has integrated dash lights -much better that the HUGE factory assembly which looked odd with the headlight. Welded the end of the broken tacho cable shut to plug the tacho drive hole in the motor.

Removed carbs, gave them a clean out. - replaced the broken throttle cables with the new ones that came with my parts from USA, quick check to make sure points were doing there thing and making spark (I need to find a source for the rubber bungs under here that are loose/leaking oil) Drained the oil, Removed the right side motor casing, cleaned out the oil spinner, reassembled with a new gasket.
I spent a couple of evenings repairing the cut up loom, fitting a tail light and indicators (not happy with any of these but will do for now) , cleaning up the factory controls and making sure they all work. Have replaced the fuel hose to the carbs, fitted new spark plugs and spark plug caps, Jammed the fuel tank on with some fresh gas. Spanner checked the rest of the bike, attached the repro side covers from retrocb.com

Kicked it over and got it running, took it for a couple of laps of the block and it goes alright eh. Low down torque is different to the FZR and riding position seems pretty sweet.

I didn’t really take many photos through this process, but here’s a photo as of how it sat when I returned from the laps of the block. (Aesthetically nowhere near where I want it, and I’ve already written a list of things that need changed/redone)


Unfortunately on the last lap of the block, it started popping out the exhaust, started surging and dropped power -seems to have lost the RH cylinder. I had to shoot home so just put it back in the shed and left. The next day I started it up again and it ran on both fine.

Ive ordered a new condenser, and grabbed my timing light am going to properly check points /timing rather than just checking for spark.

The only other issue I’ve noted is irrespective of what I do in regards to clutch adjustment, (have adjusted it both via spec in my workshop manual and via ways members on CB forums have suggested) when you initially click it into first it’s quite harsh and almost lurches the bike forward slightly only on the initial click into gear -but clutch still functions fine eg disengages drive and can hold bike still in gear with lever pulled no brakes and it doesn’t stall / try to drive forward. 


Looks like my plan of getting a WOF before xmas/ by 2021 might be on hold for now





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Adjustment process Ive followed is here

Put slack in the cable.... I recommend you "set" the threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch at about 1/2 way in....That way you have some adjustment left in either direction.
Cable bottom adjuster (at case cover): thread it ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside......
With case cover off engine, VERIFY the #10 ball bearing is in place (grease it in)....
Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops (This is the maximum clearance point, "Arm" should be fully " down" as pulled by the spring).....
Replace cover and snug the Phillips head screws...... Tighten the slotted adjuster COUNTERCLOCKWISE (anti-clockwise) until you feel it start to apply pressure to the clutch (you actually feel the springs push back)... Turn it CLOCKWISE until the pressure JUST releases, Then 1/8 turn CCW, and snug the locknut......
Pull the clutch lever against the grip..... Tighten BOTTOM cable adjuster (out) until the lever JUST touches/closes at the perch.....Lock it in place......
Minor adjustments for desired lever "reach" and release points can now be done at the UPPER (perch) adjuster........ 


is there a likelihood that from sitting unused for so long that the clutch plates / springs may have failed? Or any other tips for what to look for?


Admittedly, the idle is incorrect at the moment as the flexiable drive screw that adjusts the idle speed is broken. (Will be pulling carbs off again to see I can repair soon) and would also like to find someone with a big enough ultrasonic cleaner that I can drop the carbs in for a thorough clean / order a overhaul kit from the states with my next part order attempt in the new year . (there’s a few other shiny bits I’d like To get/upgrade/replace but really want to just ride the bike before spending the money  -Common motor does a very nice electronic ignition upgrade for these that would be primo)

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  • 10 months later...
  • 6 months later...

I have been using the CG as a commuter, the narrow bars are great for lanesplitting however not the most ergonomic. I visited a mate for a beers and bike yarns after work and got sent home with a old pair of chrome riser bars which I promptly modified to allow internal cable routing to reuse the original handlebar controls.


which took way longer than it should have.


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I fitted the handlebars to the bike and at the same time the pair of Shinko SR244 in 18x3.00 sizing tyres I had ordered turned up. 

The handlebars have given a much more comfortable riding position (grips were just cheapies to check a colour idea) and the SR244s are starting to lean it towards the aesthetic Im aiming for. 


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To fit the 3.00 in the front forks, I had to remove the mudguard that was fitted previously. Scored a different 18inch front mudguard in a trade with @Tumeke as I have the plan of fitting a high front fender.


proceeded to cut it in half


gave it a little finishing and ended up with this.


Once I can get access back into the shed, I just need to whip up a mount for it.

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Oh, and another couple of goodies turned up for the CG


The most dreamy CB100? fuel tank courtesy of @Mop Head. I’ve been hunting for a CB100 fuel tank for years, -way back when I had an ax100 it was all I wanted to fit. I just need to run a tank sealer kit through the inside, and preserve the exterior patina, then it’ll be fitted to the CG.  And all the way from USA, a pair of my favourite grips - vansXcult waffle grip moto grips. 


p.s I’ve also started another Instagram to document some more of the build process of things, it might stagnate/change names/as it progresses but I’ll see how it goes.



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