Popular Post Adoom Posted November 8, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 8, 2019 Today out of the electrolysis bath we have. The big chuck key and the vernier carriage stop. The carriage stop had filler/paint on the rough cast surfaces, but it was mostly chipped off. I decided to leave it bare metal and just rub it with oil. And not lathe.... but I got a little vice for $30 on trademe. I left it in the bath for a couple of days. Then used the wire brush on the drill. The casting was too rough to use the scourer pad. The casting is pretty rough, not much grinding/cleanup seems to have been done, so I suspect it was fairly cheapish when it was new. 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 8, 2019 Author Share Posted November 8, 2019 In the bath now is the 3 jaw. I degreased and cleaned it with petrol. It was pretty filthy inside but otherwise seems okay. It's a weird chuck. The jaws slide on an angle. It makes it stronger I think? And the threading counter thingy. I've degreased it and put it in the bath too. I'm running out of stuff to de-rust! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 Interesting 3 jaw with the dished face. You are damn good at cleaning these parts up, many shops could take lessons!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted November 8, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 8, 2019 28 minutes ago, flyingbrick said: Interesting 3 jaw with the dished face. You are damn good at cleaning these parts up, many shops could take lessons!! Thanks! Basically it's just: Degrease. Because the electrolysis doesn't work so well if it's oily. Put in electrolysis bath for a day or two or several days. Each day, or whenever, give the sacrificial electrodes a scrub with the wire brush to remove the crusty shit so they work good again. Rinse with hot water.(I have a hot tap outside) Clean off black stuff with hot soapy water, scourer pad and wire brush. Most of it will come off with minimal effort. Rinse with hot water. Parts will start to flash rust as they dry. Blow dry with compressed air. Spray with WD40 to remove any left over water. Wipe with cloth. Much of the flash rust will wipe off. Sensually massage parts with oil. Wipe with cloth to remove excess oil. 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Step 11 Wrap in waxed paper and write on a card tag what it is before popping on the shelf and never getting around to putting it back together Looks great. Please place the myford on the bed once it's all painted to show size 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Gruntfuttock Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 19 hours ago, Adoom said: I'm running out of stuff to de-rust! Would you like some more bits... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 9, 2019 Clean. And I straightened the.... pointer bit. There's a little bit of paint still on it, but it's good enough. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Looking good. What power supply are you running on the bath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) So these are the oil level sight glasses. They are plastic. They were too dirty to see through. The 3rd one, from the headstock, was leaking enough to need a bucket. It was broken and it wasn't pressing on the seal properly. Removing it made it much much more broken. The 4th one, from the carriage, was leaking a little bit because it was broken. It came out without more damage. The first one is from the threading gearbox. It could be reused. I managed to clean it enough to see through. The 2nd one is from the headstock, but it lets you see that oil is flowing and the oil pump is working. It's broken, but still seals. It's pretty hazy though. All the o-rings are hard. Those stars live inside the oil level sights so you can see the oil against a white background. They seem to be proprietary. Yay.... The threads are quite coarse. M33x2.0mm, M26x1.75mm and M21x1.75mm. All I've been able to find are 1.5mm pitch. I'm contemplating popping my thread cutting cherry and trying to make something that will take an inexpensive generic sight glass. I just had a thought.... I could ignore the thread and just silicone some perspex discs into the holes! Edited November 9, 2019 by Adoom 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 1 minute ago, Mr Vapour said: Looking good. What power supply are you running on the bath? It's just a cheap battery charger. I'm not sure how many amps it's doing. I have to submerge my whole hand before I can feel the pulsing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 1 minute ago, Adoom said: It's just a cheap battery charger. I'm not sure how many amps it's doing. I have to submerge my whole hand before I can feel the pulsing Sweet. I have a Orion coal range that I want to derust. I can't be arsed blasting it. Was planning on using a lap top charger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mr Vapour said: Sweet. I have a Orion coal range that I want to derust. I can't be arsed blasting it. Was planning on using a lap top charger. That would probably work. I got my Bicarbonate of soda from Mitre10. It's with the laundry powders. It's called laundry soda or washing soda or something like that. It looks like almost clear, big crystals. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 16 minutes ago, Adoom said: M33x2.0mm, M26x1.75mm and M21x1.75mm. M33x2 NZ$ 0.55 | M12/14/16/20/22-M60 Metric Male Aluminum Oil Sight Glass Window Use For Air Compressor Lathehttps://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/elK1fNfK for the other two that’s pretty close to 1/2 and 3/4 bsp? Bung them in with some sealant? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 26 minutes ago, datlow said: M33x2 NZ$ 0.55 | M12/14/16/20/22-M60 Metric Male Aluminum Oil Sight Glass Window Use For Air Compressor Lathehttps://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/elK1fNfK for the other two that’s pretty close to 1/2 and 3/4 bsp? Bung them in with some sealant? Close...ish. I found brass ones which would suit the lathe more than aluminium I think. For $26 I'll give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted November 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 9, 2019 I lightly sanded some of the machined surfaces with 400 grit to get the rest of the black off. It opens and closes smooth as now. It had to force it in some spots when I took it apart. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 On 01/11/2019 at 10:22, Muncie said: had an exact same one at my old work which has since shut doors wonder if its the same machine. Would you know what oil it needs for the headstock? The Meuser site only has two kinds of oil. No brand name ISO VG 22 for the headstock and feedscrew gearbox. And ISO VG 220 for the carriage and ways. I've found Cimglide 220 for the carriage. I have no idea how much it takes... But I'm just getting confused trying to find an ISO VG 22 for lathe gearboxes.... I keep finding "hydraulic oil" in that viscosity..... is it the same thing???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 We used hydraulic oil that we would use in our injection moulding machines to top up. Not because it was necessarily right but because we had it..... Ring a switched on oil retailer they'll sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 To be fair it would probably run happily for 100 years with beef dripping in the gearbox....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 23 hours ago, Mr Vapour said: Sweet. I have a Orion coal range that I want to derust. I can't be arsed blasting it. Was planning on using a lap top charger. I use a laptop charger, works well. Add in an ammeter to show that your connections are good I use vinegar now, same exact outcome with none of the wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 On 10/11/2019 at 20:56, Adoom said: Would you know what oil it needs for the headstock? The Meuser site only has two kinds of oil. No brand name ISO VG 22 for the headstock and feedscrew gearbox. And ISO VG 220 for the carriage and ways. I've found Cimglide 220 for the carriage. I have no idea how much it takes... But I'm just getting confused trying to find an ISO VG 22 for lathe gearboxes.... I keep finding "hydraulic oil" in that viscosity..... is it the same thing???? I searched around for a headstock oil for the work lathe, in the end it was 46 grade hydraulic oil. So yep it wouldnt surprise me if that was it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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