jackeo21

J21'S '83 Toyota Corona MKII Wags Discussion.

Recommended Posts

talk about wagon here 

does anybody know the production numbers of these things? I can't imagine these were ever a popular car in wagon form. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, kyteler said:

Is this the one with the punt in the butt?

it is indeed

I have access to the appropriate repair tools at work so shouldn't be many dramas. The damage isn't bad at all really.

Tailgate needs the whole bottom reconstructed though, thats about the worst of it all haha. It's rusted pretty bad, but the entire rest of the car is close to perfect. Quite strange.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I assumed it was due to the comment of it being on TM for ages.  I imagine that the damage was the only reason, really. 

A bit of disassembly and a pull and it should come up OK, I'd have thought. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, kyteler said:

I assumed it was due to the comment of it being on TM for ages.  I imagine that the damage was the only reason, really. 

A bit of disassembly and a pull and it should come up OK, I'd have thought. 

That's the plan. It's still a little pushed in around the taillight area, so I'll pull all that out and repair it all when I can get it into work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know a few people that wanted to buy it but the seller didn't mention the hit at all before viewing, as well as not putting pictures up. 

Not the best strategy to sell a car. 

 

How come your not keen for manual converting? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, beachlander said:

I know a few people that wanted to buy it but the seller didn't mention the hit at all before viewing, as well as not putting pictures up. 

Not the best strategy to sell a car. 

 

How come your not keen for manual converting? 

Cost, finding the pedal box, and interior manual surround, and i'll need to change the handbrake setup from foot brake to the normal pull type. It's quite involving is all. Ideally I'd like to have it off the road for a maximum of about a month, and I don't think I could pull all that off in that time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Ashkellybarr said:

Kinda like the auto idea. Using a modern altezza one is good idea. Just wonder if it has a controller or not?

That's what iv'e been warned about following a few talks I had with car folk yesterday. I might head over to zebra today and have a look how it's connected. Physically the transmissions all look the same, although I do believe altezza ones are electronically controlled so that could be the end of that idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 22/09/2019 at 10:14, jackeo21 said:

That's what iv'e been warned about following a few talks I had with car folk yesterday. I might head over to zebra today and have a look how it's connected. Physically the transmissions all look the same, although I do believe altezza ones are electronically controlled so that could be the end of that idea.

Any AT with a PWR/MANU switch is electronically controlled as far as toyota A series are concerned afaik. Earliest ECT Autos are from 83 onwards, Altezza are 100% ECT. Its controlled by ECU as with any toyota with electronic trans control. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So regarding the trans you can use a micro squirt to run the Toyota A341E which is super common behind soarers and surpas and a million things in the 90s. You will be able to setup a 1G bell housing and converter I’m sure they came behind 1G’s. The supra one shifts crisp and you can bang the gears, other ones from normal cars a more sad but you can get shift kits and shit. When I was messing with them there was no controller but the microsquirt trans thing was finally made and should be sweet. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In terms of the suspension, you'll get better results by fitting shorter shocks as they're probably bottoming out. Also see how much clearance you have on the bump stops (get a fat mate to sit in the boot and bounce the rear up and down). Cut down the bump stops if there's issues there but leave yourself some level of cushioning for those big yumps in the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Speedy88 said:

In terms of the suspension, you'll get better results by fitting shorter shocks as they're probably bottoming out. Also see how much clearance you have on the bump stops (get a fat mate to sit in the boot and bounce the rear up and down). Cut down the bump stops if there's issues there but leave yourself some level of cushioning for those big yumps in the road.

It's got really short shocks at the moment, but maybe not short enough! I've checked and modified the bump stops, they still look factory and function correctly. I figured with cut standard springs they'd still be soft enough (quite a narrow coil) but it's awfully bouncy. I'll be pulling it all apart this weekend for the new diff so I can take some proper measurements and get to the bottom of what the issue is. Even people who deal specifically with low cars tell me its pretty tragic haha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In regards to the automatic transmissions, I've bought a really cheap W series bellhousing, clutch and flywheel, so it will be converted to manual when the 1G-GE is ready to get in there. A little more fun. Thanks to all for advice on how a more modern automatic could work though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK good news, the 1GGE is not a torque monster so manual is a better option.

For the lowering you need to determine if its spring rate or shocks making it ride shit (maybe both). You may not have a reference point to feel what is going on but because the springs are too hard/soft (cutting them makes them firmer) or if its just the shock not dampening enough making in waffle around. Most of these wakas I have messed around with you cut the springs and use a new KYB shorter shock up front (celica or whatever it was with spacer underneath) my one was live axle so cut springs and some shorter KYBs off the shelf to stop the spring falling out. Done that same thing on a few cars MX71, ae86 etc etc and they ride good enough for poor mans lowering. Kinda sounds like it might have shit shocks as cut springs are kinda proven to ride OKish in this situation. You only need short enough shocks to keep the springs located, other than that the actual dampening is what matters. The Celica KYB's we would run in everything are firmer that stock and the rears were firm also, cant remember what they were from though. Think the bumps should be cut in half front and back for some more travel is the standard mod, make some burnout smoke with the grinder to cut them.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah well if the bumps aren't cut down and lots of spring has been cut out then it will ride like a bag of dicks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Spencer said:

OK good news, the 1GGE is not a torque monster so manual is a better option.

For the lowering you need to determine if its spring rate or shocks making it ride shit (maybe both). You may not have a reference point to feel what is going on but because the springs are too hard/soft (cutting them makes them firmer) or if its just the shock not dampening enough making in waffle around. Most of these wakas I have messed around with you cut the springs and use a new KYB shorter shock up front (celica or whatever it was with spacer underneath) my one was live axle so cut springs and some shorter KYBs off the shelf to stop the spring falling out. Done that same thing on a few cars MX71, ae86 etc etc and they ride good enough for poor mans lowering. Kinda sounds like it might have shit shocks as cut springs are kinda proven to ride OKish in this situation. You only need short enough shocks to keep the springs located, other than that the actual dampening is what matters. The Celica KYB's we would run in everything are firmer that stock and the rears were firm also, cant remember what they were from though. Think the bumps should be cut in half front and back for some more travel is the standard mod, make some burnout smoke with the grinder to cut them.

Thanks for the info,

Currently, I've cut the bump stops in half in the rear to allow for lots of travel. So, I know that there is no way that it's riding on bump stops. I figured this was the initial issue as there was a really small gap between the stop and the spring perch. This is fixed.

I didn't cut an awful lot off the original spring, everything still sits nicely etc and looks legit. There are a good few coils left on the spring, and the shocks I'm using are really stiff but adjustable with a little screw on the side. I don't have a part number, but theyre KYB's from a mitsubishi of some sort. When my diff comes out this weekend I'll be sure to measure them up and find out exactly what they are. I'll also measure out and see if they're too short, like you mentioned, they could well be too short for this thing. I figure if I find the extended length of my original shocks, and take a good 100mm out of the max extended length, I would be on the right track.

I previously tried VT commodore rear springs as they're a great fit but they're far too stiff.

Basically this weekend I will remove everything and do some measuring and report back. The front is running standard KYB replacement inserts, but the springs are far too soft as it comes down hard over speed bumps in the front, but stays rock solid in the rear. I've definitely mucked something up somewhere! I'm just hoping it can be fixed with relative ease, I don't mind spending money on the right bits. I'm super new to lowering cars with this being my first "lowered" vehicle.

If it makes any difference, when I jack the car up/lower it down the wheels almost don't move. Stays the same height on or off the ground. Shocks are set to the stiffest setting although setting them to the lowest makes bugger all difference. I feel like this is pretty standard knowledge but I'm learning! :) suspension isn't my thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, cletus said:

I've seen it driving down the road, it looks like its sitting on the bumpstops from how it looks haha  

I bet it looks hilarious in motion haha. I'm happy with the rear height, but I'd like to get the front a little lower to match. Sits about 30mm higher up front.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah should try get the shorter front kyb’s that work in these they have firmer valving which helps heaps with the ride and will give you some spring preload. Have to look up what they are.

Sounds like those rear shocks are shit? Sometimes the ones that were short and work are off trucks like hiluxs and are way too firm maybe. I have had rear shocks shortened for this kinda thing in the past to get something sorted cheap that rides good. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.