Yowzer Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Good quality coolant prevents stray electrons flowing through it, otherwise the insides of your radiators / hoses / engines can get all electrolysized. It could be an issue with everything running such long distances and bolting to different points on the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Quote Electrolysis damage in an engine cooling system is caused by unintended electrical currents that flow from voltage differences that exist in the engine coolant jacket, the radiator, and the heater core. The damage can include rapid corrosion, pitting, flaking, and pinholes. The voltage differences may result from poorly grounded electrical equipment that has a stray voltage problem. Another source of cooling system voltages is from the action of dissimilar metals with which the coolant is in contact. Metals and alloys that are different from each other have different electrode potentials. When two of them come into contact in an electrolyte, one acts as a cathode and the other as an anode. The engine coolant is the electrolyte. The metals need not be physically touching, as the engine coolant is the conductive path for an ionic transfer. The ionic transfer causes erosion and pitting of metal, or electrolysis damage. 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted June 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 22, 2020 Some good looking things arrived, if these bad boys don't sort the brake issue then I'm not sure what will. They look fucking monstrous. This is not even the most expensive brake upgrade available, but definitely not cheap. Some good y60 axles may come available very soon if anyone wants any. Old = 295mm x 20mm rotor, single pot. New = 306mm x 34mm rotor, 2 pot. The splash shields have been adjusted out of shape by the floor, they will need a bit of loving. I'll probably do the wiper seals as one looks a little weepy. It looks like the original 15's will fit over the brake setup, this is good. The axles are a bit wider than the y60 ones but with some 33x10.5 tyres the actual width will be pretty much the same as it currently has 33x12.5s. I did model this in solidworks to make sure that was the case but time will tell. Fun fun. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted June 28, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 28, 2020 I chipped away at the rad piping and associated stuff this week, and finally kicked the old bitch into life on Saturday morning for some functional tests. The setup appears to work better than before, the return pipe is noticeably cooler than the out, and it didn't get hot enough to kick the fan in although I let it idle for quite a while after getting it up to temp. This is positive. During the week I swapped out the locking hubs on the y60 axles, these had some nice manual lockers, whereas the y61 axles came with some factory auto lockers. I did manualise these though. I also made some mesh guarding for the rad to prevent stone damage. I just tek screwed this on but will replace those with rivnuts when I get around to it. On Saturday morning I picked some rotors up and cracked on with refreshing the swivel hubs. I give them some extra loving apart from the swivel scraper, I replaced the bottom swivel bearing on both as they were a little corroded, plus the main inner axle seals plus the inner hub seals. I washed the wheels bearings out and repacked them, everything looked pretty good otherwise. The axles were on a pallet sitting on some trestles, so after doing the first one I moved the pallet outside to spin it around for better access to the other side. At this point my forklift spat the dummy and stopped working, rather inconveniently sitting halfway out the shed door. I had just topped it up with diesel, and a similar thing happened the last time I topped it up. My guess it there is a whole lot of crap in the bottom of the tank and it sucked up something ugly. This annoyed me considerably. I did eventually get it going but it isn't happy, it will need some more loving I imagine At the time I ended up dragging it out of the way and craning the axles onto the truck deck so I could continue work... The results of the weekends work; Mmm shiny. Next job is to strip and check the calipers, I have some EBC yellowstuff pads on the way, they should be here tomorrow, so it should all be together and ready to go into the truck in a couple of days. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted June 30, 2020 Author Share Posted June 30, 2020 Shits sorted, I stripped and checked the clappers, all is well. I have paid less for entire functioning cars than I did for the brake pads in there, bitches better be good. The only thing holding me back from assembling it all is finding the correct rod end for the drag link, as I have modded the y60 drag link to suit the steering box setup I want to continue using it. This means sourcing a rod end; left hand thread, M22 x 1.5 male, taper to suit Y61 axles. This is proving more difficult than I imagined. There is one out of a Nissan Condor that might do it - SE4381L, but I might need to buy one to check the taper. Anyone have any hints? I am wait for a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz, we will see. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted July 5, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 5, 2020 The tie rod end situation is hopefully getting resolved, I have sent a new Y60 rod end plus one of the ball joints from the Y61 drag link that came with the axles down to HBI Engineering in Christchurch, they will make a new ball and taper to suit and reseat it in the new rod end. Because of this I didn't really get onto the axle install, as I would like to keep the truck as mobile as possible. I did give the new axles a scrub and blew some black zinc over them in preparation though. I also looked at my brake bias valve, the setup appears correct for the lift, but while I was jiggling it my fingers came away with a wee bit of brake fluid on, so I will strip this one to see of it is salvageable, otherwise look for a new one.. So instead of installing the axles this weekend I tidied up some other things. Mostly I spent the time installing a wideband to assist with tuning once I get the boost compensator on. This is a Glowshift unit I got cheap off TradeMe, it goes up to 20:1, but who knows if it will be any use really. It was hosing with rain today so even though I finished the install I didn't check it out. This might not be the best place for the sensor, but it was pretty convenient for welding the nut on; I now have any number of mismatched gauges jammed into the dash, I am not one to care about aesthetics over function, but this looks a bit of a dog's breakfast. I'll do something about this later I think; The other wee job was to stop the lid of the toolbox banging, this was clearly audible in the vid I posted while driving up my driveway. I hacked this device out of one of the seat rails that came from the Suzuki seats, we will see if it has the desired effect; 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted July 12, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 12, 2020 Time to pull finger and swap those diffs out. I sourced a y61 brake bias valve which arrived on Friday. The mounting is different so I fudged it in there, I will probably revisit this later. I had stripped the old one but there were more than just standard o rings in there, so I gave up. It was pretty clear that the old valve was stuck open so the rear brakes were pretty ineffective. I couldn't get the front high enough for comfort using the axle stands, and considering I would be working under a couple of ton of steel I decided to make this stand out of scrap. Then I looked at the potential moment forces on that cross bar, pondered how much it would suck to die at this point in my life, then added some struts to it. Along with the axle stands mid chassis, this was pretty sturdy. A short while later; A few hours of spannering had everything back together, including many $$ worth of Penrite LSD and standard diff oil. There is definitely some added sticky outy, this will be pulled back a bit with the new tyres. Now to convince the wife to come down to a cold shed to help me bleed the brakes... There is no real hurry for this as the tie rod end has not yet turned up so it's not like I can road test it yet. All good. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Just now, ThePog said: Now to convince the wife to come down to a cold shed to help me bleed the brakes... Give me a yell and I'll ride out, always good to have an excuse to jump on the WR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Just now, Willdat? said: Give me a yell and I'll ride out, always good to have an excuse to jump on the WR. It's too late, she was surprisingly obliging. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 A short pictureless update and a question. It took a while but I finally picked up the HBI tie rod end from the courier's this morning and chucked it in. This meant I could finally take it for a test drive to see how those brakes performed and to check that the axles umm, axled. They did. I would be lying if I said the brakes had a lot of feel, but fuck they are solid and pull up well. It is a big improvement, so that is positive. After a ridiculous amount of investigation I bought some new rims and tyres to suit the wider axles, 285 75 R16 tyres on 8" zero offset ROH rims. They should end up halfway between the old sticky outy and the current sticky outy and with roughly the same diameter. The rims are black cos that's what was available, I would have liked to paint them silver as per the old ones, but I'm sure they will look sweet. It's a lot of cash so I hope they work. I should have those on Monday fingers crossed. Onto the q. One thing I did while waiting for bits to arrive was adjust the boost actuator to try to get a bit more about of it. It now sits at a solid 10psi vs 8-9 previously, but builds up way faster. It actually feels really good at that so I am not sure I will bother to much, but what do you reckon on adjustable actuators vs bleed type boost controllers? Any recommendations? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Its time to get the compliance stuff done and i need a name for the paperwork.. I will add suggestions to the poll if you have any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Check valve type adjusters are better than bleed valve as they ensure the gate stays shut right up until it needs to open, which can help it reach poosts a tad earlier. If it's sweet with a tensioned up actuator us may as well just leave it as is though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 On 12/07/2020 at 16:56, ThePog said: Now to convince the wife to come down to a cold shed to help me bleed the brakes... My wife put in her wedding vows that she would always be there to help bleed the brakes 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 7 hours ago, Yowzer said: Check valve type adjusters are better than bleed valve as they ensure the gate stays shut right up until it needs to open, which can help it reach poosts a tad earlier. If it's sweet with a tensioned up actuator us may as well just leave it as is though Yea it's a hard one as 10psi doesn't seem like a lot, but it feels better than I expected for this engine and clearly isn't going to overstress anything at those levels, so yea. Maybe I will leave any tweaks for after the cert and I can do some testing with the boost aneroid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 9 hours ago, ThePog said: Its time to get the compliance stuff done and i need a name for the paperwork.. I will add suggestions to the poll if you have any. Dynamight Zututututu Whooshter Crusher Deeztour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 22 minutes ago, Nominal said: Dynamight Zututututu Whooshter Crusher Deeztour I only liked one of those sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 21 minutes ago, ThePog said: I only liked one of those sorry One out of 5 ain't bad. You could have bought this and badged it up. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2707454155 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 2 minutes ago, Nominal said: One out of 5 ain't bad. You are like a 2020 version of Meatloaf. Veganloaf 2 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 How about the.... 'Poppit 2000' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 10 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: How about the.... 'Poppit 2000' I hope there is a funny reference that I am not getting, otherwise you need to get out more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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