ThePog Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Na, just stops working. When it is working there is nothing amiss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Well my power steering tweaks seem to have worked, it went for a whole trip up and down the road without having a spaz. Now onto the next thing, when it comes on boost it makes a noise like a high pitched raspberry, about middle c. It doesn't change tone with boost changes. I guess it could be the wastegate actuating but I imagine it is a boost leak. I am surprised it doesn't change sound though... What d'youse reckon? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Sounds perfect. Add rubber chicken to exhaust for full effect. Get offsider to drive it, and stethescope it to work out where in the system? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 9 hours ago, h4nd said: Sounds perfect. Add rubber chicken to exhaust for full effect. Get offsider to drive it, and stethescope it to work out where in the system? That's pretty much what it sounds like now, it's a solid indication you are making boost, so perhaps I will leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted April 3, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 3, 2020 Found the boost leak, one of the threads on the inlet manifold inlet was stripped and my rubber gasket was flapping like a my arsehole after a vindaloo. Must have done it up Archer tight - tighten it til it strips, then back it off half a turn. Managed to get an m8 recoil kit and sorted it, no more funny noises. I took it for a spin just now, it is boosting to 10psi which feels really quite lively. The EGT's are getting up to 600deg which is a bit much considering it's only acceleration load, it really needs a boost compensated fuel pump but this will be a lot later I reckon. I'll dial it back a tad and see what happens. It might need a fan on the intercooler, I have wiring for it now. The power steering is still playing the game, now I just need a functioning alternator. Good times. Pic edit for interest 26 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted April 19, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 19, 2020 I wanted to install a fan on the intercooler as it is in a fairly low airflow position and in my head one way to lower the EGT's would be to actually have the IC do something. With this in mind I managed to wrangle a 10" maradyne 24v fan from one of my suppliers, this arrived on Friday. Some skinned knuckles and swearing got the intercooler out of its position without having to remove the deck, just the one deck panel and some mesh from the front, but it wasn't fun. Just as well the fan is reversible as I had to change it to a pusher configuration, as this was the only way this assembly was ever going to get back in without removing the deck. I modified the mount bracket so it would actually fit, then chucked it back in; Sweet. Now for the bodging. I didn't really want the fan to run all the time otherwise it was just sucking up ergs at idle and I reckoned it was only when boosting that it needed to kick in. So I thought running it off a boost pressure switch would be the go, but I didn't have one nor any realistic chance of getting one either. Enter a Jap spec 2y carb I took off the townace a few years ago. This is encrusted with many many vacuum actuators and switches, most of which I pulled off for inspection. I tried modifying the actual electrical vac switches to run off positive pressure but this wasn't so great, mostly because my stash of springs didn't have one light enough for it to be realistic. So this was the next best option; That microswitch I had in a stash. Pretty soon it looked like this after making a bracket and a screw in ferrule; Then I had to make a T so I could take boost pressure from behind the gauge to run it. Just as well I have a shit load of old taps and dies and brass hex stock and a lathe and fucktons of time. Then I slapped it all up under the dash and wired the microswitch through a relay to run the fan. Excuse the ugly vacuum manifold thing down there, I made that when I put in the vac and boost gauges. Then I wired up a temporary indicator light and took it for a run up the road, it worked! It comes on at only one or two psi so I swapped out the spring to try and get it closer to 5psi but the only one that would fit was too heavy, so I put the old one back in. I will try and find something slightly heavier when we are allowed to shop properly again. In other news the alternator is sorted, I got one sent once the embargo on car parts was eased, although in the meantime a mate of mine gave me his fucked one (whilst maintaining social distancing measures obvs), I cleaned up the slip rings and put it back together and it worked just fine. The sent one produced slightly more jibbers on my bench top test setup, so that's what was put back in. So I guess there is a spare. I also tested the 4wd, it was sweet except for the linkage banging on the exhaust when in low range. I just needed to space that off slightly from its pivot and all was well. I did a couple of full noise launches down the driveway purely for testing purposes, nothing broke and it hooked up pretty well. The power steering continues to work but was leaking even more than before, so it came out again for the 11th or 12th time for some reservoir to pump O ring and washer seal loving. This is now sorted 100% I believe. Fucking better be. Apart from a couple of other fiddly things that I didn't bother to take pics of that is it. As you were. 24 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted April 24, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 24, 2020 Had some spare time and I have basically done all I can on this for now, which is pretty much all of it, so thought I would do a couple of vids. I must be old cos the mic picks up a lot more of the higher frequencies than I hear, there seems to be lots more squeaking and banging than you would expect, although some of the banging is clearly audible in the real. But it means the whistle comes through ok... 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted April 26, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 26, 2020 I used that crane in anger today, seems to do the trick although I need to beef up the top mount, some of the crates were heavy enough to bend it slightly. I only noticed cos it wasn't sitting quite flat when docked. It gets a good lean on... 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 You bastards must be busy or I have been lazy, I had to dredge this from the second page.. So I have been thinking about the radiator situation, I not super happy with it. It works pretty well but there are some downsides to the setup. Firstly, it's a shame I had to put the ducting stuff in, it makes access quite hard plus there is a chance the diff could bend it all up and potentially fuck the rad if I hit a hard enough bump. And as ol fuck knuckle @sidewaysickness pointed out when I go hardcore 4 wheelin' it will push mud up in there.. Secondly, the metalwork gets pretty hot in the cab. I expected this but if you lift the lid while the fan is running it's like a fucking furnace blast in there. So I have been thinking about relocating the rad to the tray behind the cab. This solves both issues in one hit, and it isn't really that big of a drama to achieve. Has anyone had any experience with doing this and can tell me the pitfalls? The bummer is that a standard Safari rad will be better suited so potentially my spendy custom rad may not be used . What do y'all reckon? Edit; there's actually a spot in front of the rear axle under the deck that could work pretty well, I might have to investigate further. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Snow groomers have a radiator just behind the cab, only issue I had with them was the noise of the fan when it kicked into top gear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Push air over the back corner of the cab for open road airflow? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 I had a look-see today, I still have the mock-up rad thing that I used to set it up at the front so I chucked it in this space, if you zoom in you can see it; Bonus sweet coffee cup with bigger, more comfortable handle. So the rad fits in that space and the outlets will work as they are now. I know it's facing the wrong way for airflow, but it would be well protected and would still see some flow. It would mean that it's all still below the rad cap on the engine so its simply a case of mounting it and running some pipes. If I give away some space in the drawers I could mount it facing forward. I'll leave the idea to fester for a few days to see how I feel about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysickness Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 On 23/05/2020 at 14:27, ThePog said: Firstly, it's a shame I had to put the ducting stuff in, it makes access quite hard plus there is a chance the diff could bend it all up and potentially fuck the rad if I hit a hard enough bump. And as ol fuck knuckle @sidewaysickness pointed out when I go hardcore 4 wheelin' it will push mud up in there.. If there is knuckles to be fucked, I WILL fuck them. This is a good idea though, Im glad you're addressing this issue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 Just now, sidewaysickness said: If there is knuckles to be fucked, I WILL fuck them. This is a good idea though, Im glad you're addressing this issue I seek only your approval. Edit; Also if I lose some drawer space I can put it under the deck but right behind the cab, it will get airflow and be in the correct orientation as well. The drawer will be stink tho. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Rad is relocated now. I mounted it in place, then had a hard look at how the fuck the pipes would actually get there. I found a route that will work although I'll need to add a bash guard to protect where it goes under the gearbox. I then realized that having the rad inlet and exit facing backwards was some dumb shit and would make for complicated piping, so I pulled it out and cut all the mounts off and rejigged it all, this took up a large chunk of today. I have a length of 304 dairy pipe and some tight 90deg bends, I will crack on with this tomorrow hopefully. First try; Second try; Obviously it will need a stone guard... I also looked at getting some tyres but it seems that having 33x12.5 - 15 tyres on 7" rims displeases the tyre man, I may need to find some wider rims as I am fucked if I am going smaller than 33". I need to find the offset of the rims I have and see what offset I need in a 9 or 10" rim to keep the same tyre position... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet. In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Just now, KKtrips said: FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet. In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test. Right, tbh I didn't realise there were actual limits, it came with the 33/12.5 on the rims and I was just going to replace them like for like, obviously this isn't a go. I checked the offset tonight and it is +5mm as far as I can tell. All the 10" rims are -44 so that's no good. So if a 15x8 that can work then good. If I go R16 x 8 then a 305/70-16 will be it. There is a zero offset available in that size. I have been wondering about the brakes, they are pretty good now after bedding back in but not amazing. The calipers are pretty budget affairs, just a single side, single piston. I might have a trawl of the patrol sites to see what people have done to improve things. Cheers for the heads up. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Most Hilux's have to stick with 31" tall tyres and give the brakes a full overhaul. Are you running Safari axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Just now, ThePog said: If I go R16 x 8 then a 305/70-16 will be it. There is a zero offset available in that size. 16” rims give some more options with 255/85 and 285/75 both being around 33” tall but a bit skinnier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 These just popped up on FahBuh right now for $750 - nice and close to you in Havelock too...https://www.facebook.com/groups/1524300857866952/permalink/2421554838141545/?sale_post_id=2421554838141545&ref=messenger_banner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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