Car wont stay ON [SOLVED : Resistor Block Wiring]

[JoKer 17,646]

how would I test / check that? given it runs for a bit & all i've changed is the resistor I keep coming back to that as the 'fault' but there's not much to go wrong there either 

it did get frikking hot when I left ign on testing yesterday & burnt myself on it

[bigfoot 1,146]

41 minutes ago, JoKer said:

how would I test / check that? given it runs for a bit & all i've changed is the resistor I keep coming back to that as the 'fault' but there's not much to go wrong there either 

it did get frikking hot when I left ign on testing yesterday & burnt myself on it

Last time i had one die, I changed the distributor (on the side of the road) and it worked. Resistor getting hot would suggest its doing its job (resistance=heat)

[snoop 4]

Broken earth wire in the dissy can give ya the grief ya getting. An old school simple basic test is simply remove one plug lead clip an old jumper lead to a spark plug and earth and observe the sparking plug as it runs and stops...lol and fire it up on 3 cyls have an assistant-or simply ignition on and jump the starter and ya'll see the probleemo then simply use ya multi meter and move the dissy advance plate...K Hope This Helps.

[JoKer 17,646]

no advance plate, its a Electronic (with optical pickup) dizzy from a 78+Avenger

same as a Valiant / Chrysler setup

Well away no pics isnt handy I'll try do better next week (bit trickey from home pc, work easier)

[Esky_addict 71]

Has it definatly got the right coil in it? Using a non ballast coil in a ballast ignition can cause problems

[JoKer 17,646]

yep thanks came as a complete kit & was all swapped over

"was running when parked" nothing changed & sulking at moment, might try changing the CDI unit, same as one of these (not sure if 5 or 4 pin sorry) likely be 5 pin from research on the net (twin coil Ballast)

(have not been near car for a while nor will be till Monday ish

[Casper 1,159]

Those things are full of resin and tend to leave a mess when they fail. Not too cheap either.

[cletus 33,631]

I gave up on those things and put a magic box in instead. No more problems 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5520/

I might have some spare ignition boxes if you want them but I think as mentioned ^ the resin has started to come out so I dunno if they are any good or not 

[JoKer 17,646]

Thanks for the replies guys (only just seen) they're $100 new?

couple of clips

1st at Idle

2nd givign it some

just odd

Fills a glass full of fuel pretty quick, I reckon its got heaps of gas, seems to just cut out in same time frame every time

[cletus 33,631]

Definitely a spark issue, tachometer dies when the spark goes out. 

Dicky ignition switch? 

[Ghostchips 5,065]

From the way the tach' drops, providing the video is in sync' with the audio', there's an electrical supply problem, possibly a short circuit.  Is it possible to wire an alligator clip from the battery straight to the coil & see if it's some kind of dead short like an immobilizer?

[JoKer 17,646]

3 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

the way the tach' drops

yes that's always been the clue for me something electrickery isnt talking and it cant 'throw a code'

3 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

battery straight to the coil

@yeah yeah na just suggested that, will give it a go on weekend

[JoKer 17,646]

Found a couple of Controllers to try / House stuff meant no time  in shed over weekend, though I did manageto gather a few photo's for more info

 

and as the Dizzy is one of these

 
 
 

I've been highly recomended not to try the 12v link as suggested above [something along the lines of frying inductor sensor pickup or Ignition module?

 

[azzurro 4,681]

Agree with cletus, seem like an electrical fault to me.

Are those ignition modules expensive or hard to find? That sort of thing tends to either work fine or not work at all IME.

The signal from the dizzy to the module is pretty low level just the electromagnetic twitching from the forks passing though or between the sensor depending on hall or inductive type  (pretty much like a record player - the module is pretty much an amplifier/switch that handles triggering the coil) so wiring issues on that side can have a big impact. Maybe at idle the lower system voltage is low enough to drop out the signal?

id check all the both wiring to out of that thing and if that all checks out, maybe swap it out?

if it makes no difference no matter, as its always worth having a spare module because then the original one definitely wont ever fail!

[azzurro 4,681]

clearance from them tangs should be business card too, def not touching.

Dizzy looks just like the Bosch one on my ute, so definitely check the wires and the terminal connections on the wee prongs from the dizzy side sensor, they get loose

 

BTW. maybe a GM HEI module could be adapted to work?

[Esky_addict 71]

You sure that that electronic ignition doesn't require full 12volts to operate?

[JoKer 17,646]

I'm not sure about anything that's why I havent touched it

basic history is I removed the Points & condensor unit & replaced it with the complete kit from @mark105's Dad

Quote

& have been running it for a few years now Fitted it Oct 2017

only had issues when it blew the 1st resistor block earlier this year (High Ohm side dead) this original Post / thread

then again recently and replaced with a new unit & since then not worked

[azzurro 4,681]

Wondering if the resistor blowing could have been a symptom/result of over voltage, or voltage spiking?

Alternator OK?

As the resistor is only dropping the main power feed to the coil, it acted sort of like a fuse (too much heat then boom), but everything else in the cars electrical system may have been over-juiced too? 

as the are probably the most sensitive items electrically in the whole car the old solid state bits in the module could have been fried too, all the other things (lights, wipers etc) were probably able to handle this (at least for a while), or were not on at the time?

[JoKer 17,646]

both 'blown' resistors were OEM / 40 years old

but yep I'm wondering the same thing

I'll check alt (if i can in the short time it runs) Or remove & pop in a lathe etc see if we can get some figures

keen to have a good think & look before I go changing too much (can revert back to the Points Dizzy easliy enough but that not the "point" eh)

have a couple spare Modules will also try them (making sure to ground them)

will also check lights & stuff

everything was 'normal' before it Shut down on way to Palmy Meet

 

[JoKer 17,646]

did some module swapping

thought I had it : ran longer than usual (like 20 seconds or so) then did the die-ing thing

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-starts-stops-starts-up.964488/

Suggests coil : next thing to try i Guess

ran fuel line into a milk bottle has heaps & doesn't stop

had a look at the racecar setup : slightly different

thought about robbing that