JoKer Posted August 3, 2019 Author Posted August 3, 2019 how would I test / check that? given it runs for a bit & all i've changed is the resistor I keep coming back to that as the 'fault' but there's not much to go wrong there eitherĀ it did get frikking hot when I left ign on testing yesterday & burnt myself on it Quote
bigfoot Posted August 3, 2019 Posted August 3, 2019 41 minutes ago, JoKer said: how would I test / check that? given it runs for a bit & all i've changed is the resistor I keep coming back to that as the 'fault' but there's not much to go wrong there eitherĀ it did get frikking hot when I left ign on testing yesterday & burnt myself on it Last time i had one die, I changed the distributor (on the side of the road) and it worked. Resistor getting hot would suggest its doing its job (resistance=heat) 1 Quote
snoop Posted August 4, 2019 Posted August 4, 2019 Broken earth wire in the dissy can give ya the grief ya getting. An old school simple basic test is simply remove one plug lead clip an old jumper lead to a spark plug and earth and observe the sparking plug as it runs and stops...lol and fire it up on 3 cyls have an assistant-or simply ignition on and jump the starter and ya'll see the probleemo then simply use ya multi meter and move the dissy advance plate...K Hope This Helps. 1 Quote
JoKer Posted August 4, 2019 Author Posted August 4, 2019 no advance plate, its a Electronic (with optical pickup) dizzy from a 78+Avenger same as a Valiant / Chrysler setup Well away no pics isnt handy I'll try do better next week (bit trickey from home pc, work easier) Quote
Esky_addict Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 Has it definatly got the right coil in it? Using a non ballast coil in a ballast ignition can cause problems 2 Quote
JoKer Posted August 9, 2019 Author Posted August 9, 2019 yep thanksĀ came as a complete kit & was all swapped over "was running when parked" nothing changed & sulking at moment, might try changing the CDI unit, same as one of these (not sure if 5 or 4 pin sorry) likely be 5 pin from research on the net (twin coil Ballast) (have not been near car for a while nor will be till Monday ish Quote
Casper Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 Those things are full of resin and tend to leave a mess when they fail. Not too cheap either. 1 Quote
cletus Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 I gave up on those things and put a magic box in instead. No more problemsĀ Ā https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5520/ I might have some spare ignition boxes if you want them but I think as mentioned ^ the resin has started to come out so I dunno if they are any good or notĀ 2 Quote
JoKer Posted August 22, 2019 Author Posted August 22, 2019 Thanks for the replies guys (only just seen) they're $100 new? couple of clips 1st at Idle 2nd givign it some just odd Fills a glass full of fuel pretty quick, I reckon its got heaps of gas, seems to just cut out in same time frame every time Quote
cletus Posted August 22, 2019 Posted August 22, 2019 Definitely a spark issue, tachometer dies when the spark goes out.Ā Dicky ignition switch?Ā 1 Quote
Ghostchips Posted August 22, 2019 Posted August 22, 2019 From the way the tach' drops, providing the video is in sync' with the audio', there's an electrical supply problem, possibly a short circuit.Ā Is it possible to wire an alligator clip from the battery straight to the coil & see if it's some kind of dead short like an immobilizer? 2 Quote
JoKer Posted August 22, 2019 Author Posted August 22, 2019 3 hours ago, Ghostchips said: the way the tach' drops yes that's always been the clue for me something electrickery isnt talking and it cant 'throw a code' 3 hours ago, Ghostchips said: battery straight to the coil @yeah yeah na just suggested that, will give it a go on weekend Quote
JoKer Posted August 25, 2019 Author Posted August 25, 2019 Found a couple of Controllers to try / House stuff meant no time Ā in shed over weekend, though I did manageto gather a few photo's for more info Ā and as the Dizzy is one of these Ā Ā Ā I've been highly recomended not to try the 12v link as suggested above [something along the lines of frying inductor sensor pickup or Ignition module? Ā Quote
azzurro Posted August 26, 2019 Posted August 26, 2019 Agree with cletus, seem like an electrical fault to me. Are those ignition modules expensive or hard to find? That sort of thing tends to either work fine or not work at all IME. The signal from the dizzy to the module is pretty low level just the electromagnetic twitching from the forks passing though or between the sensor depending on hall or inductive typeĀ (prettyĀ much like a record player - the module is pretty much an amplifier/switch that handles triggering the coil) so wiring issues on that side can have a big impact. Maybe at idle the lower system voltage is low enough to drop out the signal? id check all the both wiring to out ofĀ that thing and if that all checks out, maybe swap it out? if it makes no difference no matter, asĀ its always worth having a spare module because then the original oneĀ definitely wont ever fail! 1 Quote
azzurro Posted August 26, 2019 Posted August 26, 2019 clearance from them tangs should be business card too, def notĀ touching. Dizzy looks just like the Bosch oneĀ on my ute, so definitely check the wires and the terminal connections on the wee prongs from the dizzy side sensor, they get loose Ā BTW. maybe a GM HEI module could be adapted to work? 2 Quote
Esky_addict Posted August 28, 2019 Posted August 28, 2019 You sure that that electronic ignition doesn't require full 12volts to operate? Quote
JoKer Posted August 28, 2019 Author Posted August 28, 2019 I'm not sure about anything that's why I havent touched it basic history is I removed the Points & condensor unit & replaced it with the complete kit from @mark105's Dad Quote & have been running it for a few years now Fitted it Oct 2017 only had issues when it blew the 1st resistor block earlier this year (High Ohm side dead) this original Post / thread then again recently and replaced with a new unit & since then not worked Quote
azzurro Posted August 29, 2019 Posted August 29, 2019 Wondering if the resistor blowing could have been a symptom/resultĀ of over voltage, or voltage spiking? Alternator OK? As the resistor is only dropping the main power feed to the coil, it acted sort of like a fuse (too much heat then boom), butĀ everythingĀ else in the cars electrical system may have been over-juiced too?Ā as theĀ are probably the most sensitive items electrically in the whole carĀ the old solid state bits in the module could have been fried too, all the other things (lights, wipers etc) were probably able to handle this (at least for a while), or were not on at the time? Quote
JoKer Posted August 29, 2019 Author Posted August 29, 2019 both 'blown' resistors were OEM / 40 years old but yep I'm wondering the same thing I'll check alt (if i can in the short time it runs) Or remove & pop in a lathe etc see if we can get some figures keen to have a good think & look before I go changing too much (can revert back to the Points Dizzy easliy enough but that not the "point" eh) have a couple spare Modules will also try them (making sure to ground them) will also check lights & stuff everything was 'normal' before it Shut down on way to Palmy Meet Ā Quote
JoKer Posted September 1, 2019 Author Posted September 1, 2019 did some module swapping thought I had it : ran longer than usual (like 20 seconds or so) then did the die-ing thing https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-starts-stops-starts-up.964488/ Suggests coil : next thing to try i Guess ran fuel line into a milk bottle has heaps & doesn't stop had a look at the racecar setup : slightly different thought about robbing that Quote
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