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Everything posted by snoop

  1. Old school simple basic and easy. Pop a spark plug on no 1 cyl lead and earth it with a jumper lead. Set engine on no1 TDC firing (Yip no6 rockin) align timing marks on ya 10 degree or so. Ignition on dissy loose rotate dissy in advancing direction until no sparkin plug fires and lock it there. When you fire it up and then use your timing light you will see the old school basic common sense base timing setting system as described IS as ACCURATE-as ya timing light...lol
  2. Moot point here hopefully by now ya got it sorted HOWEVER should the carb have drained itself when removed then if the brass tag that connects to the needle valve CAN due to limited motion have a round indentation in it . This can cause the needle valve to stick on same. Simple filing the area back to flat and resetting the float level will remedy.
  3. Broken earth wire in the dissy can give ya the grief ya getting. An old school simple basic test is simply remove one plug lead clip an old jumper lead to a spark plug and earth and observe the sparking plug as it runs and stops...lol and fire it up on 3 cyls have an assistant-or simply ignition on and jump the starter and ya'll see the probleemo then simply use ya multi meter and move the dissy advance plate...K Hope This Helps.
  4. mmkay pops in -as ya do says hi to sr2 [Simon you have email re inverter] **Waves at unca Jake** Okily Dokily on the old Mark 3 Go Tina...the ballast wire was about a foot or so long with the standard old round bullet connectors and was a thick GREY wire. Recall has it possibly under the bonnet catch radiator support upper panel area... pic of wire (with ends reterminated here) https://thumbsnap.com/1q1cINlX End of the day running a ballast resistor with a bypass is actually a tad better for starting. However if you decide to go that way a standard issue common garden 3k/4k toyota earlier mitsis etc as here https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/oex/oex-oex-ballast-resistor-acx1955/p/A1195390 Can simply be mounted and wired direct from the ignition feed to the ballast coil-as to the ballast bypass giving more available power on cranking/starting well as simple as a diode fitted in to a wire connected to the starter solenoid feed and connected direct to the coil... Hope This Helps Edits to add **newbie**.....Yeah Right.............(Passes round Tuis......-As Ya Do...) Reason for edit Older Experienced Time Served Qualified Mechanic **Newbie**
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