f100_dreamin

Bens Scampy scamp

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Hey man 

if your in need of any Chrysler new parts then give 

http://www.waer.co.nz/ a bell 

stuff like the genuine mopar engine block paint is in stock like a teal blue yours would of had.

or even water housings or new thermostat housings have in stock. 

I also happen to work there too. 

2131999839_IMG_3517.JPG.b1680c703944e594842b4cc62e8c001f.jpgmopar.thumb.jpg.5367c32e41ece5f8629a7bba81d84657.jpg

This is also a mild 318 that is going in the plymouth in the pic. 

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Awesome man, I see VHT do an “early Chrysler” engine enamel, but I’ve only found it on trademe so far (and $25 a can) so will look into it 
 

Motor looks good man, you Can’t complain when you get to work on stuff like that aye! 

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21 hours ago, f100_dreamin said:

Awesome man, I see VHT do an “early Chrysler” engine enamel, but I’ve only found it on trademe so far (and $25 a can) so will look into it 
 

Motor looks good man, you Can’t complain when you get to work on stuff like that aye! 

I think from memory the vht stuff isn't a exact match which is why we import and use the genuine stuff.

you going to use the teal blue colour on yours?

oh yeah for sure man keeps the excitement in the job   

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Yeah I’m going for as close to the factory blue as I can, but near enough will be good enough haha. 
 

heard from Greg at R3, car is on the chassis machine, its not too bad but does need a few tweaks. 

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My 2 cents, tub the shit out of it!  You'll never regret having room for my tyre. 

Plus when you win lotto down the track and want to drop in a Hellcat or hellephant motor, you'll be able to put that power on the ground. 

DOOOOOOOOO IIIIIIIIIIIT!

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Ah man! 

the wallet is going to hurt on this build.

too late to turn back now too.

what new panels do you require? 

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@piazzanoob Yeah the budget has long since been forgotten haha, at least once it’s done it will be right. And I imagine it will drive a whole lot better that it did haha, 


It needs both rear 1/4 panels. They are available from classic industries so just a matter of getting the money together and get them ordered. 

 

1EB7FA23-4356-4CE5-9268-D941E864C482.jpeg

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I would be very careful with where you get them from and the quality that they are. seen repro panels from the states that are rubbish. had same deal with my galaxie boot floor. also some of the repro stuff the body lines are not in the right place. 

also not all of the classic industries stuff is good quality

can R3 fix or make you new quarters?

otherwise earls body shop in wellington makes panels.  

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Before I pulled the trigger on any parts from 'murica, I'd be asking for feedback at www.forabodiesonly.com. 

The knowledge and expertise there is on point. It's like the oldschool hive mind, except relating to mopars.  

Someone there will know which panels are the best fit, and who to buy them off.

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@RUNAMUCK Yeah I have a thread on FABO already (pretty much a copy and paste of this one) will be asking a few questions closer to the time, 

 

@piazzanoob the shape of the wheel arches are actually fairly complex, would be more work to fix than replacing the the full 1/4, there is a bunch of bog in places that doesn’t make sense etc, just shit in general haha. 

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Drop a plumb bob off each sill lap/join at a spot perpendicular to/with the tip of the gearbox output shaft and note the total width. Divide it in half and mark the true center of the vehicle on the floor. Next, drop a plumb bob off the center of the gearbox output shaft to see where it lands and how it compares to true center. If if sits to one side of true center (and it will) note to what side it does and by how much.

Measure the width of your OEM MoPar diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Measure the distance from the end of your gearbox to the differential pinion and note it down. Draw it all out/up and get an appreciation for what drivetrain alignment MoPar engineered into your car.

Measure the total width of your new diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Determine the difference in length between the two axles and subtract this difference from the side of the diff you plan to have shortened. Determine what effect this has on the pinion placement within the new width, draw it up and compare to the original offering.

This will give you a chance to check any change to drivetrain alignment you maybe introducing without realizing it. Just sayin.

 

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