f100_dreamin

Bens Scampy scamp

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Seeing as you did some pining over a big block caprice, is an RB swap and 4 speed manual on the cards? 

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Nah the big block was simply just cool because it was already there. 

 For now my main focus is getting it vinned and legal, see what condition the rest of the running gear is like. I’m not even sure what auto is in the car, 

 

There is a fairly standard recipie to get 400hp from a 318 using later magnum heads, so would like to aim for around there eventually but probably go with alloy heads.

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It will indeed..
Its just really hard to get bits for, noone in nz has parts drivetrain wise, even basic stuff.  find a good company in the usa to deal with for that stuff and buy direct.  Its worse than dealing with a ford, but way better results. LOL

I'd be interested to see what the recipe for 400hp in a 318 is. engine hp or rwhp? wouldnt be hard as it is not alot but just curious, be a big lift cam no doubt ;)

Welcome to MoPar. 

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Auto will most likely be a 904. 

Fine choice in automobile sir. 

 

 

If its a factory disc brake one I might have a bottom ball joint I ordered wrong for my plymouth 

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25 minutes ago, nzed said:

It will indeed..
Its just really hard to get bits for, noone in nz has parts drivetrain wise, even basic stuff.  find a good company in the usa to deal with for that stuff and buy direct.  Its worse than dealing with a ford, but way better results. LOL

I'd be interested to see what the recipe for 400hp in a 318 is. engine hp or rwhp? wouldnt be hard as it is not alot but just curious, be a big lift cam no doubt ;)

Welcome to MoPar. 

Would assume engine HP,

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/318-small-block-build/

that's the link there, they call it sort of a budget build, will use it as a loose guide and see where I end up haha.

Yeah I've been doing a bit of research and found bugger all in NZ,  I see Summit racing has a fair few parts listed but to be fair that is going to be a little while down the track,

2 minutes ago, cletus said:

Auto will most likely be a 904. 

Fine choice in automobile sir. 

 

 

If its a factory disc brake one I might have a bottom ball joint I ordered wrong for my plymouth 

Cheers mate, yeah I thought it would be a 904, and from what I've read there has been plenty of companies that have started making uprated parts for them so they can be built reasonably strong, but like I say I'm new to this Chrysler/MoPar game so will be a learning curve that's for sure haha.

unfortunately it is a Drum brake car, so a disc upgrade will be on the cards once its through Vinning,

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Hehe .... a couple of the usual suspects - @nzed @cletus but wait a little bit. There are a few more Walter P supporters out there :wink: You'll be in good company - especially with that fucking thing cletus is building.

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so how you were saying about it being Arizona car

it may have from new but i dont think its been there for a loooong time 

my galaxie is from Arizona and all of underneath is what i would call brushed rust super light and not a very dark colour.

And even mine doesn't look that bad by going off your photos.

easy tell tale sign its from a super dry state is all the rubbers are fucked and interior isnt much better haha and sun burnt paint.

 

but yeah will also be getting mine blasted and painted underneath to knock the surface stuff off.

but your job to do first is to get the underneath free from any grease or oil as the sandblaster will spread all that all underneath and your paint wont stick at all.

so would 100% give underneath a good steam clean 

as once its freshly blasted blow off the sand and its paint time as its a clean bare surface.

also let me know how the guy you are going to see goes 

as i know the crowd in glen field are 2 grand to get it done plus more if you get it sprayed in galvanising.  

it also wouldn't hurt to check with a repair certifier and compliance people prior too. as they dont like fresh paint too much as im sure your already aware of 

 

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I have a good ps pump and steering box from mine I could sell if you want

I got a manual box for clearance reasons

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5 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

so how you were saying about it being Arizona car

it may have from new but i dont think its been there for a loooong time 

my galaxie is from Arizona and all of underneath is what i would call brushed rust super light and not a very dark colour.

And even mine doesn't look that bad by going off your photos.

easy tell tale sign its from a super dry state is all the rubbers are fucked and interior isnt much better haha and sun burnt paint.

 

but yeah will also be getting mine blasted and painted underneath to knock the surface stuff off.

but your job to do first is to get the underneath free from any grease or oil as the sandblaster will spread all that all underneath and your paint wont stick at all.

so would 100% give underneath a good steam clean 

as once its freshly blasted blow off the sand and its paint time as its a clean bare surface.

also let me know how the guy you are going to see goes 

as i know the crowd in glen field are 2 grand to get it done plus more if you get it sprayed in galvanising.  

it also wouldn't hurt to check with a repair certifier and compliance people prior too. as they dont like fresh paint too much as im sure your already aware of 

 

@piazzanoobYeah am only going off what the seller told me, who is the same guy that brought my Belair into the country, is what it is at the end of the day, like I say it’s all solid just looks shit haha, 

yeah I’ll be taking it to work and giving it a big steam clean at the very minimum, and if it’s going to be as expensive as you got quoted to have it blasted then I’ll just do the tedious process of  hitting it with a wire wheel and clean it up myself. If not then I’ll pull the running gear etc out and have it blasted. Because we have the Belair I have the luxury of not having a deadline to have this done. 

5 hours ago, cletus said:

I have a good ps pump and steering box from mine I could sell if you want

I got a manual box for clearance reasons

@cletusSweet man fire me a PM with what you want for them and I’ll keep that in mind if the PS box doesn’t want to be adjusted to an acceptable standard/fitting new seals to everything may end up being in the CBF category haha

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Cool. 

In my experience those mopar ps boxes feel yuck when the engine isnt running- theres a bit of play in the center but once the engine is running they get much nicer

Also I went and saw autoblast a while ago (might be the same place Dylan is talking about) and they said $1300 ish to do mine with all the mechanicals out of it

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5 minutes ago, cletus said:

Cool. 

In my experience those mopar ps boxes feel yuck when the engine isnt running- theres a bit of play in the center but once the engine is running they get much nicer

Also I went and saw autoblast a while ago (might be the same place Dylan is talking about) and they said $1300 ish to do mine with all the mechanicals out of it

@cletus Yeah, even with the engine running there's a huge amount of free play, you can almost rock it from 10-2 with out the wheels moving, will see how it adjusts up and go from there,

If its that much then ill do it manually, my time is free, might buy me a cheap 10ltr sandblaster off trademe for the hard to reach places that I can get to with the wire wheel,

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5 hours ago, f100_dreamin said:

.... if it’s going to be as expensive as you got quoted to have it blasted then I’ll just do the tedious process of  hitting it with a wire wheel and clean it up myself ...

My 5c worth ... that decay in some of your pics is past being cleaned up using a wire brush. And if you are going to the expense of getting it blasted - maybe you should look at the different media types available. My son is a blaster (industrial garnet only) He has done heaps of cars - both hotroddy type ones and but mostly jappa's from car importers. You will never (never ever) get rid of the sand from out of a unit body. Might be better to have soda or something hidden away in the seams than sand? Another thing to look at also is how they get your baby up in the air. If they are using forks, (and most of them do) be prepared to have two long fork shaped areas that are not done as well as the rest of the job. Also look for sill and chassis damage from using the forks. Ruff shit goes on behind closed doors bro. Then its covered up by paint and when you go to pic it up ... you can only give it a cursory glance because its back on the ground, on a dusty as floor, and they have their hand out for your dosh. Just saying.

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50 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

My 5c worth ... that decay in some of your pics is past being cleaned up using a wire brush. And if you are going to the expense of getting it blasted - maybe you should look at the different media types available. My son is a blaster (industrial garnet only) He has done heaps of cars - both hotroddy type ones and but mostly jappa's from car importers. You will never (never ever) get rid of the sand from out of a unit body. Might be better to have soda or something hidden away in the seams than sand? Another thing to look at also is how they get your baby up in the air. If they are using forks, (and most of them do) be prepared to have two long fork shaped areas that are not done as well as the rest of the job. Also look for sill and chassis damage from using the forks. Ruff shit goes on behind closed doors bro. Then its covered up by paint and when you go to pic it up ... you can only give it a cursory glance because its back on the ground, on a dusty as floor, and they have their hand out for your dosh. Just saying.

Yeah am going to look into buying a smaller sand/media blaster for the areas that don’t clean up with the wire wheel. To be fair the pictures are making it look worse than it is I think. 

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3 hours ago, cletus said:

Cool. 

In my experience those mopar ps boxes feel yuck when the engine isnt running- theres a bit of play in the center but once the engine is running they get much nicer

Also I went and saw autoblast a while ago (might be the same place Dylan is talking about) and they said $1300 ish to do mine with all the mechanicals out of it

Yeah that's the place 

although I just rang them up and got that price. 

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@f100_dreamin

the media blasting guy I know has quoted me 700 to do my galaxie 

just blast underneath and another 700 to paint it. 

But with that quote I will be there helping his boys out mask it up and make sure they don't miss shit or warp my floors.

he said they have ramps so it will be done on there. 

The GC is also giving me access to their hoist for me to paint it underneath myself to save some coin. 

Also that way I know it's done well and only have myself to blame if it ends up shit haha.

i guess he's giving me a fair deal as I got him into the import yourself from the states as now he has two 58 chev apache's 

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1 hour ago, piazzanoob said:

@f100_dreamin

the media blasting guy I know has quoted me 700 to do my galaxie 

just blast underneath and another 700 to paint it. 

But with that quote I will be there helping his boys out mask it up and make sure they don't miss shit or warp my floors.

he said they have ramps so it will be done on there.

I spoke to the guy at autoblast Pukekohe,

if I strip the underseal (as his media wont remove it) then he will charge me $800+gst. That’s blasted and painted and provided he doesn’t have to acid the floor and reblast it a second time. Which also pumps the price up

His shop had about 5 cars inside waiting to go. 3-4 week wait he reckons, 

I think that a special rate though as we have sent him a few land cruisers to blast and paint chassis’ on. 

 

I think that that will be the go. So I need to sell my dirt bike now haha. 

He said I may as well start doing all my other work to it for now at least that way when it comes back from him all the suspension etc will be blasted and painted 

Cheers for all all the feedback guys

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