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Lucas Alternator voltage spike/surge


Triumph2000

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Hi guys,

 

I have a Triumph 2000 that has a Lucas ACR15 Alternator on it. Sometimes it spikes the voltage upto

15v+ and the subwoofer cuts off because I'm guessing to save itself and all the lights brighten up, after

a few minutes everything goes back to normal and the sub works fine. But recently I had to change a few

bulbs because they couldn't handle the voltage. Is it the voltage regulator thats causing this? I saw in a few

other forums that if the battery is always dead due to not charging its definitely the regulator but in my case the

battery is always charged and fine. Any help would be awesome. Cheers

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Well the voltage regulator regulates the voltage, so if you have excessive voltage then its a good place to start, you need to check the connection to the battery is stable as it is the soak, the load which is the basis of the regulation...

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what comes first ? the amp shutting of then the spike because to me it really sounds like the amp is hitting thermal overload , and the spike is because the current draw suddenly stops when the amp turns off instead of frying itself  .

 

you need to check that the amp is not overheating . 

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It might be something to do with your amp and 15" sub giving your pore old alternator a hard time.

 

ACR15 Alternator, if it not making howling sound your were in trouble lol 

 

Yeah it could be but im trying to find away to make sure it is the amp, any suggestions 

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Well the voltage regulator regulates the voltage, so if you have excessive voltage then its a good place to start, you need to check the connection to the battery is stable as it is the soak, the load which is the basis of the regulation...

 

Yeah thats right, the battery connection is fine and so are the connections to the alternator. The sub/amp red wire from the battery does not have

a inline fuse with it just after the battery but she has been working fine without it. Does the inline fuse work as a check valve

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what comes first ? the amp shutting of then the spike because to me it really sounds like the amp is hitting thermal overload , and the spike is because the current draw suddenly stops when the amp turns off instead of frying itself  .

 

you need to check that the amp is not overheating . 

 

yeah amp shuts down and then voltage spike. But I dont think the amp doesn't hit thermal overload because sometimes it happens a couple of minutes after engine start up, it cant get that hot in a couple of minutes. Anyway to check this is the problem for sure. cheers

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Yeah thats right, the battery connection is fine and so are the connections to the alternator. The sub/amp red wire from the battery does not have

a inline fuse with it just after the battery but she has been working fine without it. Does the inline fuse work as a check valve

an inline fuse will stop your car burning to the ground when there is a serious fault that's why pretty much every wiring kit for a amp comes with one pretty cheap insurance and yes if it has a serious fault it could hit thermal cut by then  

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I would add a big fuck of cap to the power supply for the amp at the least, smooth things out a bit in the voltage dept.

 

A big amp and an old English charging system is asking for trouble, it's not a matter of yes or no but of how long will it take before it all goes up in smoke................

 

................if it was my car I would be adding a seperate loom attached to a modern Japa Alternator and a second small battery for the sounds. Feedback may be a issue but some GC here will be able to help with that I'm sure.

 

A second Alternator is not unheard of with big sound systems even in a new car.

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just cause it only takes a few minutes to happen doesn't prove anything . try disconnecting the amp completely and see if the fault still happens .

 

even if I am wrong, now you know its not the amp. this is a logical first place to start because other than the starter motor and the cigarette lighter the amp is going to be one of the next highest current drawing devices , and in a old car not designed for high current loads its defiantly the first place I would start looking .  

 

save yourself the heart ache and stick a fuse in it, car fires are almost impossible to put out .

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Been thru this with my many of my triumphs..... ditch the lucas for a junkyard jap spec alternative or a new chev spec one off trademe for $220 bucks your lucas will be running almost at full capacity with the headlights on and sub going anyway.

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Hi guys,

 

sorry for the late reply been a lot busy. I replaced the Voltage regulator last week and since then there is no problem

at all. The amp and everything else works fine. I found a new regulator for $16 and installed it and everything

works fine now. Thanks a lot guys

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  • 3 weeks later...

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