BlownCorona Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 I don't know for sure yet, the spark b led is sitting in side the case to make space for the other bulkhead plug I installed. Am away this weekend but will be checking inside the ecu when I get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 popped the lid off the ecu just now and under cranking the center led flashes as it should displaying IRQ trigger, but both LED 17 and LED 19 stay on when i would have expected them to flash as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 When on the output is high when off they are low. If you have spark inverted = yes they should be off when not cranking and flicker when cranking. When spark inverted = no they will be on with ign and flicker off when cranking. Turn irq trigger off once youve finished with it dunno but it may be your problem. Set it to warm up or what ever option you get mighy be acc enrichment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 right well its been a very busy few months with the corona doing nothing but gather dust, but im finally back out in the garage trying to get this ignition system sorted. after double checking all the wiring i tried another igniter and i have spark on both a & b and the igniter doesn't get warm anymore, so thats sorted. however the sparking isnt all that consistent, some moments it was alternate perfecty, then suddenly change to just eraticly sparking on one side or the other and sometimes back to nice alternating etc. and i cant get much more than a random fire here and there from the engine. im not sure if the eratic sparking is simply due to the low cranking speeds etc? i have no real idea why it wont just work nicely, all the ingredients are there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 you can have a look at my .msq here if anyone is interested http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=36327915402565144631 edit - the trigger angle stuff is pretty random on that file as i was trying a few different number to see if the engine would respond at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 seems like all the knowledgeable people on this topic are away on holiday! nice! for sake of a complete timeline ill keep talking to myself, when i had my trigger wheel cut out the shop gave me a second one for free/incase there was a cutting error. so ive decided i have nothing to loose in trying this idea. ive not been able to find any reliable info about running a primary trigger at cam speed, so i have no idea if this is my problem or not. so ive taken the spare trigger wheel that fits into my dizzy and ground off the opposite tooth to the already missing tooth, so that not when configured at a crank trigger, it will spare to be a 6-1 wheel when spinning at cam speed. i know this wont give vey good resolution, however if it turns out this was the issue i can then work on redesigning the trigger assembly. considering it ran well with just the 4 trigger points from the points, it should still run fine and prove a theory at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 it does sound like a timing issue , so if you cant program it through the ecu (I am sure its possible but not something I have played with) so a mechanical fix could be worth a try ..... do you have a few sets of sparkplugs (good 2nd hand is fine) on hand ? if the spark isn't doing its thing they get fueled up and wont fire till they dry out , which could be adding to not starting too ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Yep, modifying the cam sensor to give crank sensor spec output did the trick, just had it running. Fumed out the garage so waiting for that to clear out and I'll roll it outside and give it a tickle up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Good work man, I'm glad you got that cleared up. I thought one of the other guys told you to do that a few pages back? Perhaps you missed it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 I may have missed it, I do remember down trail saying that since my 12-1 wheel would be spinning at cam speed it would be as effective as a 6-1. I don't think anyone questioned the primary cam trigger because of that guys Datsun 1200, but he's running a MS3 so perhaps the MS1 can't do primary cam sensor. Either way I'm extremely grateful to you guys for all your help! Now all I need to do is tidy some wiring, give it a wash and get a wof! Jeah! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 OK you will need to set dual dizzy to yes as the ms1 assumes that your wheel is on the crank (so it thinks the motor is going half as fast as it actually is). Thats what I was saying about having a 24 tooth wheel with 2 mssing teeth 180 deg apart. You can set your trigger returns to 0's and use time based crank timing. Unless your absolutely sure of the wheel decoder settings. Rookie you were right, just saw this post from downtrail that i totally missed, telling me to set dual dizzy to ON which i didnt do. ill tidy everything up under the current running configuration and decide if it warrants me going back to the 12-1 wheel. i fell dumb, however my car is running so i couldn't be happier 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Check you timing is 90deg out on spark b i dont think it will be as 4÷6 is not a whole number so the wheel decoder wont be working the way it should be. The wheel needs to be in multiples of how many cylinders you have ie 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 etc. For a 4 cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 I did worry about that, but used an excel spread sheet calculator to set up the wheel and it didn't chuck out any weird numbers, it seems to run great but I'll double check it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Cool what teeth are both a and b triggered from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Cool sorry mind blank yes that is ok as they are 180 deg out at cam so youll get 90 deg crank. As you were. Also to note ive recently run one of those cherry sensors with smaller teeth than the data sheet. Had 4mm gap and 3mm teeth. So could be an option if you need more resolution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 That's great to know. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I thought you had already ground off the other tooth, but it doesn't matter now, your car goes, ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 im currently fitting an electric fuel pump and have everything wired up through a relay etc. hosed up etc. runs great when hooking power up to the relay. i could plug it into a 12v switch source and be done with it with little problem other than in an accident it could keep pumping fuel, so since that sounds not very fun id like to make use of the ECU some more and wire it up. i thought it was going to be super easy, wire the earth of the coil to pin 37 and call it a day but no joy. when wired like this, connected straight to the battery, the fuel pump runs with the key in "off" so pin 37 must be grounded. then when i switch to "on" the pump stops instantly, so pin 37 must un ground, and no sign of the short priming burst that should be there. and when i start the car (some fuel still in the carbs) the pump doesn't turn on like it should when the ECU sees rotation. any ideas whats going on? ive read some posts that say the transistor could be faulty but not much else online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 You have a NC relay instead of a NO one? Wait, that doesn't explain why it worked without the ecu in the equation. Have you put the multi meter on the ecu wire to see what is actually happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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