Gaz Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Hey painters few questions. 1. Bare metal how long can it sit inside before epoxy primer applied?? Hours, days? 2. Do I rust kill prior to epoxy? Crc rust converter is what I have. 3. Will it stick to a small amount of underseal or need that metal clean as new. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 HEY BRO, I leave bare metal exposed as short a time as possible, I will try clean it up with the DA then wash clean and paint asap if I can. You can also wash it down with scotch brite and some wax and grease prior to the final clean, it will polish the steel up nice, especially in areas where the DA wont go. Some epoxy will lift with rust kill under it, its made to go on clean whte steel so just do that. It will stick to the underseal fine but I'd clean shit up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Cheers bro. Wat about if steel is not able to be cleaned to shinny bare? Wonder if debur actually do a rust converter for under there epoxy prime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 What Spence said, but if you have a particular shitty bit that you can't get to rust convert it and then do the wax and grease remover with scotchbrite trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 the green (brand dependant probably) Scotch brite is the one I use on bare steel it's the roughest. It will take off any light (new)surface rust no problem. Polish the whole car up with it and wax and grease and the paint will stick like fuck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Perfect Ill get some of them pads. Im using 3m purple stipper discs to strip paint to bare steel but anywhere it doesn't get into its taking ages with 180gritt paper. I dont want to go any rougher and scratch steel too much. I tried Turgo strip but that stuffs good for fuck all. Engine bay is where I cant get into heaps of places, any tips? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 What's the existing paint? I love paint stripper unless it's 2k, even then it can work alright. Otherwise just those hard black nylon strip disks and my DA sander for big areas. Then cunty places I use a bunch of wire brushes, die grinder and a sand blasting pot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 If you wanna leave your panels in steel for a bit give them a wipe over with a rag and thinners and then dont handle them without a rag or gloves as skin contact will rust them. The epoxy I use (durepox) goes over rust converter fine. I think it actually says in the spec sheet to use it over rust converter on surface rust. I rust convert everything I've had to remove surface rust from even if I've wire brushed etc. Then I sand the rust converted area (and maybe apply another coat) before painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 what about over phosphoric acid/phosphor zinc (e.g. por15 metal ready) 131 has been sitting half stripped to bare metal with that stuff for a long long time. the odd bit of rust bloom but much of it seems just fine/no rust appeared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Most epoxies I have seen will not stick as well if applied over phosphoric acid (pretty much all rust converter is based on this). Just wash the whole thing down with scotch brite lubed with wax and grease remover, its worth it for piece of mind to me. Epoxies like number one cool thing it does is sticking to bare metal so I just do that. I have personally had bad adhesion over rust converter with two brand name epoxies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Done the same with my bare steel a good wipe with thinners and leaves a bit of a coating giid for about 2 weeks. One of them fancy Electric file gets in alot of the hard to get spots.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 What's the deal with the zinc products (like zinc black) Iv been using on the wb (because I don't really give a fuck) but have been told in the past that no paint will stick to it after 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 It's sweet for welds on gates and shit. I tend to not use any rattle can stuff at all. For any bare metal jobs it's cheaper to mix up some epoxy and brush it on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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