thegreatestben Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 It's gonna need new cap and rotor as they are rooted. No point in trying to diagnose with fucked gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Tonights notes, went to pick a part. Got another mitsi ignitor the same as the old one. Also a Toyota one and wiring, just in case. Popped the mitsi one in, pulled the plugs out. spun dizzy by hand. Sweet spark on 1 & 4. None on 2 and a little on 3. Check spark coming out of coil - good. Getting new cap and rotor tomorrow. They are pretty fucked tbh. I guess excessive clearance in the cap would load up the ignitor eh? nah shouldn't do its just a path for the spark pass through to the correct lead at the correct time. all the ignitor does is provides an interface from the signal out of the ecu. basically its a little relay as such that switches to ground when told to completing the coil power circuit. charges then discharges when ignitor drops out in the form of a spark. Are you sure that when the correct tooth passes the vr sensor that the rotor and cap are aligned? could be out a tooth and spark it trying to jump an excessively large gap. you probably already did it but you should set motor to tdc rotor should be pointing at no 1 on cap and then there should be a tooth lined up with the vr sensor. give or take a few degrees. this will be your number 1 fire signal etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Yeah I looked at the old dizzy and marked the teeth onto mine. Then I checked the position of the marked teeth against TDC and it was all G. Mine pre mod vs. old dizzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Well I always like a conclusion to be made in threads like these in case someone stumbles upon it looking for help. The cap and rotor were the fault causing the ignitor to poo itself. My thoughts are the ignitor was not intended for use with an distributor, so it doesn't have the cap and rotor being worn out in mind. As soon as I fitted new cap and rotor, it fired up with an almighty knock. Checked oil, yup. Smells of petrol. Drained it out, lots of petrol in oil due to it being cranked over alot and the link chucking in fuel. I'm guilty of this, but I bet the previous owner did it a shit load more than I did. Sooo I didn't run it for long. Drained oil, flushed it out, more oil new filter. Less noise but still lots of noise. Rip off sump and check big ends. 2 & 3 good. 1 good. 4 no bearing left. Bugger, so text previous owner. He was gutted. He paid $700 just for the replacement engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Sorry to here but atleast it went! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 jam some new bearings in there? or does it need a crank grind and shit? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Cranks fucked, well no.4 journal is. All that was left of the bearing was two tiny pieces thinner than paper and about a 1/4 the usual length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Oh dude that is balls. Glad you got the firing problem sorted first. But yeah. Stink buzz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.