thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hi so I have an ae101 with a silver top wired up with a link as detailed above. Was running but previous owner ran engine dry. Swapped to this motor and it won't start. I have fuel and spark an there's data on the ecu but when checking timing when starting the timing light tells me that it's WAY out. All timing marks line up, check all the basics but can't get it better than like 10deg after tdc. Is there a setting I can alter to right this like I could with my g3? Any ideas? I suspect this is all that's stopping it from firing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Also I noticed that it's running a mitsi igniter but the stock ignition coil. It's running MAP instead of the AFM. Somethings up with the trigger, there's no way to get the dizzy position wrong on 20v's. Also the car is Facelift but engine is probably not. Is the loom different between pre and post facelift? I know the ECU is interchangeable but a different part number (better tune on facelift) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Are you running wasted spark with coil packs? Could just be that ign channel 1 and 2 are backwards.ie cly 1 and 2 swapped with 3 and 4? Or do they run a dizzy? Could be firing order wrong or they all could need to be rotated around a position on the cap effectivly moving the spark timimg 45 degrees go 2 posoitions for 90deg etc clockwise or counter clockwise for Adv / retard failing that there should be a setting for setting the static timing or reset offset havent played with a g1 for ages tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 It's running the stock dizzy, stock coil but a Mitsi igniter. The type found on mitsi wasted spark setups. Thought that was a bit odd. Yeah on my V5 and the G3 you could just alter the offset in the pclink software. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 I wonder if they have done something weird, I'll put the timing light on the other leads and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 look inside the case, they have dip switches for trigger offset. cant change it in the software Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 What kpr said. Il try remember how they work. Something like one down is 4 deg, two is 16 deg or some shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Ah sweet, instructions doesn't make any mention of that, atleast not that I could see. Stand by for pics of guts and ignitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Fuck put that in a museum! No dips I can see in pic. Can you rotate dizzi a tooth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 hmm no dip switches! looks like an old daughter board. maybe those jumper pins on the daughter board are what you need to use. maybe best to ask link what the deal is before you try though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 oh and the ignitor, some of the toyota ones control dwell, the misti ones are dumb and will just do what the link tells it. will be only using 1 channel out of the 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hmm, the guy I bought the car off said it was running the link prior to engine going pop and the wiring looks pretty well done at both ends. The guy was pretty honest about what he did and didn't know, pretty trust worthy as he let me take the car home on his wheels then take them back. Can't move dizzy a tooth. Retard proof unlike 16v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Yeah wak the light on another lead and see where your timing ends up itll be something simple if its been run like that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Tried that real quick, swapped 1&4 2&3 Came up better like that but that seems weird to me, still wouldn't start. Asked a question on link forums. Cap and Rotor are pretty stuffed, might invest in new ones of those tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 make sure that its wired to g1 on the cas not g2. although if it ran before.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Yeah I'm gonna check that too. Mrs apprehended the laptop when I got home so doing my head scratching now. Think I'll whip the plugs out, pop a long screw driver down the plug holes, and observe the spark vs. crank position. Somethings not quite right. The other option is to change back to stock ECU, loom and AFM. Have found PFL stuff for $225 on trademe. I'd cry if it still didn't start though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 This is the 20V dizzy eh? http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/C20%20Toyota%2024Tooth.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 yeh pretty sure it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Tried that real quick, swapped 1&4 2&3 Came up better like that but that seems weird to me, still wouldn't start. Asked a question on link forums. Cap and Rotor are pretty stuffed, might invest in new ones of those tomorrow. Try moving them around the posts circuler just make sure they are in the right firing order in a clockwise circle. Try each position untill you start seeing timing marks on no 1 showing while cranking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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