MRWEST Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Has anyone done one of these? Say under the floor like hotrodders do? Do you basically get a remote/small set up and put it wherever you need/want/can fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillman1 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Pretty much easyest to find will be out of a hillman hunter bust run line from master cylinder and vacume line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 ^That's for a remote booster, and would give you boosted fronts only on a dual circuit system. My project has a small dual circuit Mitsi (or somesuch) with booster under the floor. The dual fillers (Wilwood parts) are separate from the master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Running drum rears and disk fronts. Would i get away with just running a straight master cylinder like a small wilwood one or the likes mounted under floor on chassis. Or are my brakes going to end up being shit as fuck?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I have a wolseley derby car that has a remote booster, will be available in a few weeks. Wilwood remote reservoirs are cheap through summit racing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 What's it for bud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 for the 64...disk front and drum rear. want to clean up firewall the factory heater box and booster/master cylinder and wiper motor are massive and hideous. And given how far iv already gone might as well finsih it off under the hood nicely also. Have done a bit of homework and was pretty much told i need a booster. Have bought a willwood tandem alloy master cylinder from Cardwells funnily enough bolted straight up to the orignial booster mounts. Going to run that and a remote VH44 booster under the dash or similar likely. Unless anyone has any better/ easier ideas this seemed the cheapest/tidiest/easiest way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Yea you need a booster man. Dunno how you get on with the Vh44 setup as you essentially don't have a dual master unless you use two? Dunno I have only sort of looked it up. Personally id just get a new factory master and booster, unless it's going to be show car spec it's not worth running anything complicated and the factory setup is more than enough.. Nice factory setup with steel master resevour looks sweet IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Hmmm yeah will read some more but was what hotrod heaven suggested. Iv got a new factory one with i think a 8" booster but reading on the net when your running a ls1 you have to relocate your coils which i dont really want to do to clear the booster, as thats a pain, and i wont be able to use the coil covers iv got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 the early crowns run a remote booster just for the fronts and the rears run straight off the master. disk front and drum rear. you don't have to run an 8" booster, there are smaller ones that will work just as well and look way better to. you could put together a smaller booster with a larger bore master and it should come together very nicely. are you still running the stock callipers and disks on the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 yeah not sure why i got a 8" tbh. Iv done a disk conversion on the front so not factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Yea just change to a smaller booster, they are common and cheap. Only need to change the pro portioning valve for the new discs. Just so much more simple chucking it on the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/VH44-FITS-DISC-DRUM-BRAKE-REMOTE-BOOSTER/1454789714.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 You can run a remote booster on your front circuit only alot larger of older cars ran a system like that. I have a VH40 under the dash on one of my Valiants to boost the front brakes, It works well, the car pulls up nicely with unboosted rear discs. I found it was quite alot of plumbing under the dash when I did mine and you can hear the booster working when you are driving. It doesn't make your dual circuit into a single circuit, the booster goes inline in either circuit you decide to use it in. As mentioned above, I have another Val with no booster, it stops fine too just needs a bit more pressure on the pedal. You might find that your brake pedal has two holes for the master cylinder pushrod on the brake pedal. One closer to the piviot for un boosted opperation the other further away for boosted options. I'm not saying what you should do, just that all three options can work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 yeah have just spoken to 2 others that have Impalas with disk front and drum rears and no booster nad have both said its fine and passed cert/brake test so might just go for that in the first instance. If im not happy with it can always change it later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Man fuck that, sure they came from factory with both boosted and unboosted options, drums all around etc but its crap. My car when the booster crapped out sucked balls (disc conversion up front, drum rear), 2.5 tonne with some good power punting around town with unboosted brakes sucks. Had to snap your leg off to stop it creeping at the lights with the highish idle and tight converter due to the cam. I just don't see the need to make this complicated, if you pine for a clean firewall then go for it but its over complicating something that basically has a factory bolt in option available. Its not like its a 50's or earlier car where the master was under the floor and a modern master real high on the firewall looks retarded. Slam one of these in and do a skid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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