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Military (Automotive) Specification Automotive Wiring Harnesses.


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This thread is for those looking to find information on Military Spec (Mil-Spec) wiring harnesses, how to create them, and where to source the parts for them within New Zealand and globally. I plan to use this thread to gather information and store it in a shared location. Part of what provoked me to write is to learn more about this level of automotive workmanship and increase my skills in this area, I learn well by writing about a topic.

 

 

 

The acronym ‘Mil Spec’ comes from the ‘MIL’ designation assigned to Military part numbers. In respect of wiring Mil-Spec designates a compliance with a standard (Military). In order to achieve this, the loom would be constructed with complicated and special features. Such as Teflon-coated wire to avoid inference, and features like service loops for stain relief, and cool multi-layer twisting for flexibility.

 

circular_twist.jpg

 

The connector above features concentric (twist) wiring, service (strain relief) loops at the connector, lacing cord and Kynar clear shrink to hold the wires tightly together near the connector. Kapton tape will cover the wires at the connector to protect them from the special adhesive-lined shapes or RBK Adhesive Lined Shrink. With the wires covered by DR-25 and the Connector sealed by the RBK, the harness will be protected from the environment and from abrasion.[reference]

 

It also involves extensive planning before the loom is started and a full understanding of systems it will include, their requirements, and interconnectivity. Noise, or interference can seriously effect performance in high performance engines, and even a cause failures. Quality wiring techniques and fittings can eliminate that, and provide stable information for the ECU to apply its tuned parameters.

 

For us car people, not all of this is even necessary. Alternator, injector, and sensor (MAP, TPS, Air Temp) plugs don’t really comply with Mi-Spec, so our looms will never completely comply, however aspects of the Mil Spec loom have made their way into the motor sport and tuner scenes and for good reason, Deutsch manufactures connectors for military use, has also introduced motorsport-specific connectors under the Autosport brand.k-series-non-milspec-engine-harness.jpg

 

Notice the above multi-pin fitting which is very different the normal method of passing wires through bulkhead (a rubber boot of some kind), this one of several key defining features of the Mil-Spec standard.

 

Auto-Spec is a trend which blends Mil-Spec connectors with specifically manufactured Auto-Spec connectors and Automotive part specific plugs often using smaller higher performance wire dimension. One of the defining features of Auto-spec opposed to Mil-Spec is the use of lighter fittings than Mil-Spec. The High-quality locking bulkhead (pictured above) used in Auto-Spec offer a quick-disconnect "flip of the wrist" locking and unlocking mechanism, just like the Mil-Spec ones, but lighter. 

 

<more later when I have time>

 

 

Some Quick Links Below. 

 

 
Local Parts Suppliers. 
Global Parts Suppliers
 
Mil Spec / Automotive Spec, fuel wiring harness. 
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Nice info! And those looms are very pretty!

Warning, it does get VERY expensive though, I had my engine and rear looms (and some datalogging stuff up front) done in similar fashion and it got spendy real quick. The loom was done in DR25 and Deutsch Autosport connectors were used along with Deutsch Mini-DT for all the new stuff, with Tyco connectors being used where the loom needed to interface with the OEM stuff. The loom was made to be backwards-compatible with the original engine/loom/ECU should I ever wish to revert to 100% factory spec.

NewChassisLoomInProgress.jpg

NovWiringProgress01.jpg

NovWiringProgress07.jpg

NovWiringProgress06.jpg

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just out of curiosity (I figure if i clicked the links I might answer my own question)

 

what makes them Mil. Sec.? over regular Auto Spec?

 

Because they are manufactured to Military Specifications, Although none of the ones posted seem to be done to that spec as the military don't use Deutsch connectors. It is much the same as AN fittings ( AN stands for Army Navy), the Military makes a spec that they want their goods to comply with so they withstand the rigors of battle, the automotive world sees that it works and copies it.

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Yeah, most autosport connectors are similar to mil-spec but are generally lighter construction. Cars generally don't use mil-spec connectors these days as they're far heavier than they need to be, and don't need to be explosion proof, corrosion proof in salt water etc. :)

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Basically forget trying to make a "milspec" loom, it is completely pointless, you don't own an amphibious vehicle or a humvee.  So IMO it is pointless posting links to aviation websites because shit is taxed worse than Old Man Speed Shop.

 

What you should be trying to replicate is a Motorsport Spec loom.

 

http://motorsportwiringsupply.com/

http://www.prowireusa.com/

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So what do you buy then Dave?

I had a look through that site and the options are just about endless haha. What product would you reccommend for cheaper than ludacris $$, it works awesome, isnt absurdly large and is going to be easy to work with?

I will need some connectors in 98 years when it comes time to look into ute wiring.

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I've bought a bunch of stuff from http://www.msel.co.nz/ for making up sweet looms. Also, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php has been quite useful for getting good quantities and differing colours of AVSS wire for in-cabin stuff.

 

Haven't found a good source of GXL/TXL wire for enginebay stuff yet, but always keeping an eye out.

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A mil-spec loom, IS a motorsport spec loom. there is no real difference (least from what I can see). Motorsport looked at the quality of the aviation and military looms and thought to itself, hey, they works well, lets do that. ( I bet I get shot down for this later on). :P

 

It terms of 'site links', I started this at 1am this morning, . I've only taken my first few steps .. it takes time to build up a 50,000 word document. 

 

you will find while they are similar, they are slightly different because military stuff they can charge even more for than motorsport or even aviation stuff. even though they are all probably 80% the same thing. it's largely wankery anyway there are plenty of ways to do an awesome loom that all work. mil spec or aero spec or motorsport spec is all cool and go for it but I dont expect most of us want to or have the wherewithall to spend that much when automotive spec stuff works 99% as good for automotive applications.

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A mil-spec loom, IS a motorsport spec loom. there is no real difference (least from what I can see). Motorsport looked at the quality of the aviation and military looms and thought to itself, hey, they works well, lets do that. ( I bet I get shot down for this later on). :P

 

This is wrong, I have never seen a true "Milspec" wiring loom on a car because we use automotive stuff. Unless it complies with this: http://www.militarywire.org/Standards.htm it isn't milspec...

 

Like Tom said you can make a mint loom that isn't even close to Milspec.

 

FYI That Nigel Petrie loom only has one Milspec connector in it.

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So what do you buy then Dave?

I had a look through that site and the options are just about endless haha. What product would you reccommend for cheaper than ludacris $$, it works awesome, isnt absurdly large and is going to be easy to work with?

I will need some connectors in 98 years when it comes time to look into ute wiring.

 

 

Use Raychem DR-25 heat shrink and boots

Tefzel Wire if you want to be fancy (otherwise any good quality wire will do)

The stock plugs from you factory loom

Weatherpac connectors for the few things that need to be detached like fan, fuelpump etc

 

That will enable you to make a really good looking tidy loom for considerably less that the moonbeams you would pay otherwise.

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I think my loom cost in excess of $4k on its own. The connectors, DR-25, etc added up to about half that, before it had even been assembled. :( That, combined with about $10k of MoTeC gear made it an especially spendy couple of months, given that I'd budgedted about $5k for ECU, wiring and installation!

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