nzcress Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Interesting. Mine didnt pass because the weld touches the spindle itself. Im going to get new spindles and get them rewelded. Yours touches the cast spindle to though. Must of got lucky haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Cool I thought that was frowned upon at cert time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 it is. currently you cant even cert struts like that if they are made by a shock manufacturer, let alone modified by someone. somebody must have been having a stevie wonder day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcress Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 You are allowed to weld brand name struts now but the weld must not touch the cast. Mine will pass once I get new spindles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosozoku_gx71 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Currently mine are welded just like yours were the first time Nathan. Cause I know varix on here just cut his off at the silver part and had them re-welded and in doing so got about 30-40mm out of it but these two options obviously give a lot more adjustment level. I'm thinking what you did Nathan is probably the best option, purely because I don't like the idea of snapping a snapping a coilover when I'm out doing manjis or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Im sorry I have just looked through and I have thrown you off. I got my cert when it was the first way. I got it redone after the cert. Which was very naughty. I think I was in no rush to get it done as it was getting certed to be higher anyway. Sorry about that. Would still rather what the engineer has done over skyline inserts for me personally. Dont judge me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosozoku_gx71 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Did you say he machined the strut as well as, the piece that is welded to the axle? Also HELP! So after reading all this decided to go and slam the back cause i felt like doing something and wanted to see how it would look on the watanabe's. So i know technically how they work, unwind the top and then bottom nut on the spring perch, so you lift the spring up, then undo the lock nut on the shock and wind the shock up to meet the spring. First thing, couldnt even get the spring perch nuts undone, i assume its because all the pressure from the spring is pushing against them making them super tight, so is there a trick to that or just bang it with a rubber mallet till they come loose. Second thing, i have no idea how the shock actually moves. Once you undo the nut and get it free, where do you wind the shock from? The top has the allen key part on top but it doesnt make sense that it would be a little allen key. And thirdly where does the damper adjust from in the rear. PS dont judge me, have never owned coilovers before and these being completely different to a standard coilover i cant really find any other source to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Do the adjustment of the spring perch with no weight on it. Out of the car if need be. Once you have undone the rear nut then just wind the bottom of the shock up into the thread clocwise.You'll see the shock getting shorter. The allen key at the top is for the damper. Should be 32 clicks from hard to soft with the little adjuster that comes with the suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosozoku_gx71 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Do you mean like grab the shock and just wind it either one way or the other for either up for down? Just don't see an other way to twist it like no mounting points to twist it with the spanner or anything. And yeah I have tried to twist the damper but seems quite stiff which made me think it might not be there compared to the front damper, but yeah that makes sense. Thanks mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Yup thats right. I remember once my damper adjustment was real stiff and I was scared I was going to damage it, but wiggled it and it worked finally. And mine were new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosozoku_gx71 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Awesome, yeah was just a bit confused about the rear damper being so stiff. Do you not undo the nut at the very top that holds the strut in the boot so you can twist the strut or should it just twist freely anyway? Was doing this (trying to twist it with my hands) and didn't seem to be doing much. But could also have been me not knowing if I was doing it right so not wanting to break anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 just reading over this post as i have a ta63 with irs, and the suspension is almost the same as a cressida, i actually have gx71 front struts and brakes in it at the mo with ae92 shortened shocks and cut shock tube. . . bit of the norm. but back to what i need to know . i have read this post twice now and i am failing at figuring out what the issues are with the mx73 kit. are the shocks that they supply to long ? or are they supplying you with skyline ones that are the right height but obviously not up the task? i haven’t found any rear adjustable spring perches to buy separately any were, so i am thinking of just buying the bc kit for the mx73 and re making my suspension. i am just a little confused with what the issues are with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Seem to be not going low enough. If you follow the BC directions it will be high even on max low. The skyline insert was to try and find a solution. The stock inserts are fine strength wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Seem to be not going low enough. If you follow the BC directions it will be high even on max low. The skyline insert was to try and find a solution. The stock inserts are fine strength wise. ok so you use all the parts supplied in the mx73 kit but when you weld the front strut you cut more of the bottom of the bc tube to get a good low height ? from the looks of your picture its about 60 - 80 mm ? does cutting more from the bc tube have any effect to the shock insert ? sorry for all the questions, just want to figure out what’s what before i commit to buying a set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Yeah thats the one. But you wont be able to cut that much off though. From memory the insert thread winds all the way down until it hits a small lip on the inside. If you cut it off just below that then I think you get about another 40mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 after reading all this again, I still feel I would make my own coil overs. its a shame you cant buy the damn rear kits on there own, as that would save sooo much hassel. should start making them, slash talk to red line and see if they can order the rear stuff from BC them selves. I only say this because the method I have listed in the tech article section, with added keeper springs, could probably lay your front chassis member on the ground. only difference is buying adjustable strut inserts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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