Guest grunta Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 wiked datto man, looks sick on those wheels! nice build thread! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Valiant Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Ideal. You do anodising too? That's good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest datto_610 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Cheers guys, really should've updated my thread sooner! Yes Pete I do it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Born Loser Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Looking good Greg! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
be4ver Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 What was that noise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Sounded yuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Yeah think it could be an empty lifter, will pull cam covers off next time I'm out there and investigate. Super stoked that it actually started with no hassles! Filled with oil disconnected ecu, removed coil packs, cranked over a few times would've gone home happy with just that happening. Hooked everything back up turned key heard fuel pump prime then it started!!!! Mounted my new fuel and send lines yesterday pretty pleased with how they came out, in all the excitement I didn't take many photos so will put some up when I'm back with the 180. Will sort that noise, plumb up IC hook up rad hoses fill with coolant and all the other niggly bits then start her up again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Choice dude! its a great feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWB Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 That sounded nasty! I'm interested to know what caused it though? And congratulations on all the progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Thanks Emma but unfortunately still trying to track that dam noise down! Had cam covers off last weekend all the lifters appear to be primed with oil, plenty of oil getting up top. Did a compression test and came out with 150psi on all 4 cylinders. Checked timing and all marks line up. Going to drain the oil tomorrow to see if anything is floating around in there, also have a mate coming round with a bore scope to have a geez at the inside. So it's not lifters, doesn't sound like a run bearing(from what other people have told me), did think about a valve hitting a piston, other than something flying around in the block/head I can't think of anything else that it could be. Would hate to have to strip it all down but I may have no other choice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Have found the problem... Went home feeling pretty bummed out but at least I can move on and sort it out now. Had some CA fiends pop round yesterday with a bore scope was pretty cool having a looksey inside. #4 has what we think might be some material from the head sitting on the top of it also has a quite a few dings from what are thinking is a bent valve hitting the top of the piston. Timing was not actually correct was out about 2 or 3 teeth out so set that back up properly but there is still interference when turning it over by hand. Also re did the compression test on #1 and #4 and came out with about 130psi. Head is definitely coming off now. Will be on the look out for another to swap it over after I get hardness tested etc. So once that is done hopefully it will run properly. For now I'll be focusing on front and rear suspension. Have had a platform welded to my front struts for the threaded sleeve to sit on. I didn't like the idea of welding the sleeve to the strut itself incase I needed to change it later on. Pics to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liam-B Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Try find a CA16 DE inlet cam, it has more lift and duration than the CA18 inlet one. Cheaper than a regrind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 I have looked into that but probably pretty hard to come by. Was also looking into using an exhaust cam on the inlet side but really need adjustable cam gears to get the timing spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bean.101 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 It's looking good, bugger about the alloy bit in the cylinder. Kennelly Cams are worth a look for grinding your cams. Probably cheaper than kelford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Cheers, yeah have heard good things about Kennelly Cams will look into it if I have any coin left after doing the head, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Before bolting the crank pulley back on James(85_Z31) suggested that I drill and tap two holes on the pulley to assist in future removals like other crank pulleys have. But Mr Nissan decided the CA pulley didn't need them and didn't leave enough metal in the center to do so, as you can see in the pic below there is only about 5mm of metal showing. So decided to flag that idea and just slap it back on. Getting it off wasn't that hard anyway with two big flat head screwdrivers and being very careful. Was planning to remove starter motor to stop engine rotating but James gave me an idea, seeing as I already had the front half of a driveshaft in the gearbox to stop oil coming out I used a piece of flat bar with two holes in it that James uses when working on diffs to bolt to driveshaft put box into gear and the bar hit the ground thus stopping engine from turning over when tightening pulley bolt. Still needs to be torqued up but got it tight enough for a test start anyway. And yes I put box back into neutral before start up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Direct abuse at me to work on this... It runs and kind of drives so there should be no excuse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Do it man - I already yellow carded Chris yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crustywhip Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi Greg, this is your 180b here, Im using Kanes body to let you know that working on that laurel is turning you into a gay boy. Come show me some love before you give your bum hole blisters. Regards, 180b 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Ha very funny Kane! Yes I know I've been neglecting the 180 a bit as of late. But seeing as Hanmer is only a week and a bit away I needed to get the Laurel sorted. So after Hanmer it's full steam ahead on the 180!! I'm hoping to convince my mate who I'm house sitting for to let me put the 180 in his garage. It would seem I work on my cars more when they are at someone else's place/my garage is a shoebox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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