camo_78 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 bloody pinto!!!cortina has sprung a large leak in the rear block frost plug which is behind the flywheel.is there any product and/or trick i can use to temporarily seal it??it only needs to last until easter weekend as the motor is then coming out so i can finish engine bay off,clean motor up etc etc PS:needs to be a temp fix that can handle high revs for short bursts,ive biffed it in a burnout comp again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Nope - once it starts leaking - nothing is going to stop it except replacement - if you could get to it then perhaps knead-it may work but sounds like engine out to do that anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I had same problem about 2-3 months ago, bottle of radiator stop leak, problem solved. (for now, at least) Worth a shot IMO, so long as it's an engine where you dont mind the thought of the heater core, radiator, water pump etc potentially being gunged up with crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 I had same problem about 2-3 months ago, bottle of radiator stop leak, problem solved. (for now, at least)Worth a shot IMO, so long as it's an engine where you dont mind the thought of the heater core, radiator, water pump etc potentially being gunged up with crap thats not a problem mate,got spares for all except heater core here(actually think ive got a core somewhere........).stop leak was the first thing i thought of too so will give that a whirl before anything else. K-Trips: to access it ive got to rip the flywheel etc off so Knead it wouldnt really be an option.when motor comes out im going to replace all gaskets etc so will fit all new frost plugs too .its a mint runner.just has little niggly issues one after the other Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Stop Leak works really well for minor leaks as a stop gap. And i do mean minor. But under a high load situation such as a burn out competition, I would not be taking that risk. Not for a healthy engine. The chance of completely toasting it is very high.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Stop Leak works really well for minor leaks as a stop gap. And i do mean minor. But under a high load situation such as a burn out competition, I would not be taking that risk. Not for a healthy engine. The chance of completely toasting it is very high.... very true,however i have used stop leak before in the same car for a crook radiator at another burnout comp and it worked rather well.the hole in the radiator was a good 2-3mm in diameter and water was coming out horizontal,poured in stop leak and 20 seconds later the hole was sealed.i know its onyl a stop gap measure but as i say its only for the comp,and the car doesnt get driven on the road,it onyl gets fired up every few days to move it round(joys of parking on grass ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin' joe Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 used bars leaks for the same situation on the rally car last weekend. good temproary measure, but have to take box out (fuxxored 3rd synrcho) and clutch (fried), if it asks me nicely i might replace frost plug then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 used bars leaks for the same situation on the rally car last weekend. good temproary measure, but have to take box out (fuxxored 3rd synrcho) and clutch (fried), if it asks me nicely i might replace frost plug then. lasted ok did it??and motor and box are coming out of the cortina straight after the comp anyway so not worried if it blows its guts in the 2nd round of burnouts,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 ok,so 2 sealwell cubes and a small bottle of bars leaks later its still leaking(i should have listened/read to K-trips) .so,chch peoples,wheres the best place to buy a replacement plug from and how do i install it as im a frost plug newbie,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulloc Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 it will be piss easy to replace, most repcos/ partmaster etc sell frost plugs but youll have to fish it out 1st to get the correct diameter. you should be able to borrow or buy a simple tool to wind it out like this http://www.naed.com.au/images/648452w.jpg you may as well do them all while youre at it they cost about $2 each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 it will be piss easy to replace, most repcos/ partmaster etc sell frost plugs but youll have to fish it out 1st to get the correct diameter.you should be able to borrow or buy a simple tool to wind it out like this http://www.naed.com.au/images/648452w.jpg you may as well do them all while youre at it they cost about $2 each could make one of those tools .and that is a good point about replacing them all at once.do they need sealant or anything??or are they just a really tight press fit?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 In my experience, those frost plug tools are shit, the thread isnt deep enough to actually hold the plug. Just tap one edge with a punch carefully until you can grab the other edge with pliers. Some people use a shellac, but if the hole is clean and the plug fits tightly it ought to be fine as is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I always use lock tight to seal frost plugs. make sure everything is nice and clean before you hit it in, a half inch drive socket is a good way to help get them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I use shellac on the back - not to hold it in but to slow corrosion down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.