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DIY Car Painting??


felixx

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  • 2 weeks later...

1) Is a 40L compressor big enough

Have done a 323 station wagon with a 40l compressor and was a damn good job only fail was the thing filled with water due to geting so damn hot from constant running totaly fukt the roof.

2) HVLP gun ok? How much should I spend?

most paint shops round te awamutu start there guys on wellmade guns, also used these to paint cars.

3) I plan to use enamel laquer as 2k is a bit scary sounding, am i being a pussy?

2k is the win. thats what i did my 323 with 2k jet black in a brand new single garage with resporator

4) How much paint will I need?

if your just blowing over the outside get 4ltrs i reckon.

5) Does someone in chch have a booth I could hire? (or shall I plastic line my double garage?)

plenty of damaged brand new homes have good garages just grab a empty one for a weekend.

6) Do I need to clearcoat?

na. but if u do load it with pearls (no dont!)

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if the base coat has a pearl in it, spray a clear over it, because thats what brings the pearl out, it will look dull and almost a bit matte if you dont spray a clear over it,

the other plus to clear is that its a good protective layer. i would say do it anyway just for this reason, stone chips will turn into rust spots.

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A few things that I don't think were mentioned.

Make sure you use wax and grease remover also called prepsol and there's a few others but prepsol is well know and not too expensive.

Practice with 2k paints on a spare panel or something and figure out the drying times because you want to put second layers on when the paint is "Tacky" but not fully set.

Wear rubber gloves if you think your going to have to touch the body during the job.

You can wet sand most paints with a really fine sandpaper and water if you have runs or blemishes etc. Then hit it with another layer (if you wet sand between coats you will get a very shiny/bright end result) Clearcoat will make any colour you use shine much more in the sun and protect a bit more from the elements. It also gives you some more material on the car to cut and polish later multiple times.

Very important is that you use a water catch on your gun. Preferably use a water catch on both ends of your line. Another thing would be emptying your compressor and taking the bung off the bottom of your tank and try to get most of the water out of it since it pulls moisture out of the air and it settles in the tank.

If you can, wet the floor in the environment that you are working as it will keep dust on the ground. Don't dry your paint with gas heaters or heat the room with gas heaters as it leaves vapours and oils in the air which are not good for paint.

Make sure your room is ventilated as the paint molecules will end up sticking to the car and make the paint saggy. Preferably have an extractor fan. Also small molecules are going to get stuck to lots of stuff.

Use a gravity fed gun. Unless you have thousands to spend on super high quality suction fed guns that need super calibration.

If you want a good finish use atleast 100L tank. You can link up multiple tanks with connectors to a smaller compressor. The higher the CFM at higher PSI the better. If you want trouble free painting look at spending $800 to $1500 for a good new single phase belt driven compressor (These prices are new im not sure about second hand.

Go and talk to RJ Paterson on tuam street I think... They know there stuff and can sometimes do a good deal depending on what mood they are in.

My flatmate is a country boy who has built race row boats and fibre glassing and painting for large boat builders and made car panels etc etc He goes in there and gets 1L of prepsol and they charge him about $12 I go in there the next day and the same guy charges me $28 I hassle him and say I came in the day before and he tells me that's what they always charge. My mate always gets the same price. Still they know there stuff and have had good service for my fathers compressor etc.

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^this is all true, especially the wax and grease remover, its one of the most important steps.

wet the floor but be very careful not to flick the water up if there are small puddles left, ideally probably should mop them up.

also another important note we missed,

spray the whole car in one go, or else panels will dry slightly differently and colors wont be identical.

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what about this roller painting thats all the rage on teh interwebs?

any one given it a go?

can ya get a suitable 'coach' paint in nz?

seems to me the trade off is lots of drying/sanding/flatting off time between heaps of thin coats but using cheap material/equipment vs a quick result using expensive materials/equipment. but both need good base prep to turn out well, so...

is it as simple as the old time or money conundrum? or is it balls?

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roller painting will probably require 249874927 times more wet sanding and buffing for a good finish

if you use base coat, metalic/pear/straight colour ALWAYS use a clear coat. its called base coat for a reason

pearls generally go ontop of the colour/base to give them a nice stand-up

compressor tank size is a pointless measurement. we dont even have a tank on the compressor at work, its the cfm

to comfortable spray a car with hvlp you will want a minimum of 15cfm @30psi as most guns will run on about 10-15cfm and 15-50psi

tank size is a damperner on pressure variences and duty/time the pump is running

water trap is a MUST, even if the paint looks mint when you spray it moisture can come though months after

an air oil filter is nice if your compressor is cheap/old

SPRAYING TIMES

if you are in your garage try to keep the temperature above 10'c

base coats, use a dry first coat with a flash time mearly minutes

then keep slapping wet coats on till fully covered (can be 5 with cheap paint) the flash time between these will be no less than 10minutes (at average garage temps) but kan be left for a few hours if you need to (like the oh shit moment when you touch the paint and need to quickly sand it back a bit)

base coats are really light and easy to spray/. is not suitable for top coats/buffing/weather/anything

drys to touchable finsish in 5-10mins

acrylic lacquer, just smash coats on till its covered

flash time is almost as quick as you can paint but 5-10 mins is good

again nice and light easy to use

drys slightly dull but comes up great after a buff (wet sand/shave any runs/orange peel and flys out)

drys to a touchable finish in 10-20mins

enamel paints

please dont even bother

like to react with each other/its self, stays tacky for ages........just dont

2k's colours and clears

flick one dry coat over the car then apply wet coats

flash time can be as little as 5 mins but if your learning then you can leave it 20-30 between coats if you like, greatly reduces the risk of runs.

2k's are heavyer than single pack paints so a little more difficult to get the 'sweet spot' of too wet/too dry but runs dry spot and other imperfections can be cut out once dry

if you want to get fancy add a pearl to your fist wet coat then 2 or 3 more clear coats, you can 'lift' the pearl by putting 2 coats of clear then one pearl then 2/3 more clear but that gets expensive

ready for buffing the next day(be fuc,king carefull the paint will scar very easy at this point) but best to leave it for 2 atleast (still asuming garage job)

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