1337cookie

This sort of thing right?

Huh? So you want to give me a megasquirt if I test your megasquirt with a stimulator and you have a jimstim, or.... Hmm are you just taking the piss out of the words that megasquirt uses. Im sorry but I just don't understand if you're not being sarcastic.

Thanks dude will do, much appreciated.

Hey, I'm looking for someone in chch with a megasquirt who also has a stimulator or jimstim . It would be greatly appreciated if I could use or borrow the stim for an hour or so to troubleshoot an issue I'm having.

Power windows, power steering, plush interior with two front seats instead of a bench seat. It has Radio controls in the back seat and ash trays on the two rear doors. It also has two front lights that are rectangle shape instead of twin headlights that are circular. It also has an electric trunk popper. Also badges all round that say Brougham alongside the 260c badging. It was considered the VIP model of the car. There were quite a few different versions of the car the 220c was a diesel model, 240c had a smaller engine and bench seat with column change, 280c had a larger engine etc. The engines you could get were L20A (I6), L26 (I6), L28 (I6), H20 (I4), SD22 (I4 Diesel), SD20 (I4 Diesel). These had a variety of gearboxes including manual 4 speed column, 5 speed on the floor, and 3 speed auto. They were also called Gloria and Cedrics which had trim level designations Deluxe, Custom Deluxe, GL, GL-E, SGL, SGL-E, 2800SGL, and 2800SGL-E. The SG stands for "Senoir Grade" and the E stands for efi or electronic fuel injection

Link to project thread. viewtopic.php?f=17&t=28901

LINK TO DISCUSSION THREAD viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28933 This is my 330 Series 260c Brougham, It was born in 1981. When I got it, it had a 3 speed auto. Someone before me had swaped the motor for a L28 (Instead of the stock L26). Did some minor maintenance on it when I got it. Drove it for about a year then put a manual box in it. Got bored of the colour and wanted to see how much rust was under the tired paint. Painted it flat black. Heres some photos of the car from new years/march 2010. Also photos of paint strip back and body filler and primer. This is my spare L28 Motor which I think would be fun to make a stroker out of. Here it is setup with a Twin Turbo Manifold I got late 2010 sometime which I will use at sometime. Heres a video of her from late 2010. Video: I have welded up my exhaust using the twin turbo manifold and two turbo exhaust housings with one side of each blanked out with metal plates. Got some phat new second hand tyres that are 235 wide I think and put them on the original wheels. They baloon out and look like doughnuts. Installed an OS tacho. Installed an oil cooler that has what I believe to be the best looking braided lines (Just plain stainless steel end fittings). After new years 2010/2011 my hitachi carb shat itself (The float bowl valve failed and it was having other issues and I couldn't find any bits for it. So I purchased a Megasquirt 3 ECU with MS3x on a V3.0PCB that I have successfully soldered together just need to suss out tach sensors etc. I intend to run coil packs I stole off a RB20. Have switched the Twin Turbo manifold out for a single turbo so I can get it running a little easier. I have also bought a new Bosch 044 fuel pump (apparently good for 700hp even though I currently have about 70hp). There is also some updated pictures of it since it is now black. I use imageshack for my image uploads. They provide a great free uploading service and include short links for use on forums like this. LINK TO DISCUSSION THREAD viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28933

Oh another thing if you have access to 3 phase power life will be 10x easier because the 3 phase compressors are grunty as and much cheaper by comparison.

Hey just read your write up. I had a look since I saw you were looking at painting it in the tech forum. Ive always had a thing for angleboxes and thought I would mention Tony Butler, who owns Bultler automart. He has a thing for anglias and has a few out the back of his stanmore road shop. If you go in there looking for anglia parts ask for tony since he knows his stuff he can might even cut you a good deal too since hes a real nice guy like that.

A few things that I don't think were mentioned. Make sure you use wax and grease remover also called prepsol and there's a few others but prepsol is well know and not too expensive. Practice with 2k paints on a spare panel or something and figure out the drying times because you want to put second layers on when the paint is "Tacky" but not fully set. Wear rubber gloves if you think your going to have to touch the body during the job. You can wet sand most paints with a really fine sandpaper and water if you have runs or blemishes etc. Then hit it with another layer (if you wet sand between coats you will get a very shiny/bright end result) Clearcoat will make any colour you use shine much more in the sun and protect a bit more from the elements. It also gives you some more material on the car to cut and polish later multiple times. Very important is that you use a water catch on your gun. Preferably use a water catch on both ends of your line. Another thing would be emptying your compressor and taking the bung off the bottom of your tank and try to get most of the water out of it since it pulls moisture out of the air and it settles in the tank. If you can, wet the floor in the environment that you are working as it will keep dust on the ground. Don't dry your paint with gas heaters or heat the room with gas heaters as it leaves vapours and oils in the air which are not good for paint. Make sure your room is ventilated as the paint molecules will end up sticking to the car and make the paint saggy. Preferably have an extractor fan. Also small molecules are going to get stuck to lots of stuff. Use a gravity fed gun. Unless you have thousands to spend on super high quality suction fed guns that need super calibration. If you want a good finish use atleast 100L tank. You can link up multiple tanks with connectors to a smaller compressor. The higher the CFM at higher PSI the better. If you want trouble free painting look at spending $800 to $1500 for a good new single phase belt driven compressor (These prices are new im not sure about second hand. Go and talk to RJ Paterson on tuam street I think... They know there stuff and can sometimes do a good deal depending on what mood they are in. My flatmate is a country boy who has built race row boats and fibre glassing and painting for large boat builders and made car panels etc etc He goes in there and gets 1L of prepsol and they charge him about $12 I go in there the next day and the same guy charges me $28 I hassle him and say I came in the day before and he tells me that's what they always charge. My mate always gets the same price. Still they know there stuff and have had good service for my fathers compressor etc.

In many older engines if you do a head skim you want to get shims for your cam towers the same height as the skim you did. This will keep the cam lobes touching the same area on valve lash to avoid wear and the timing chain/timing belt the same distance from the crank. eg. 1mm skim you want to put 1mm shims under your cam towers. If you want an easy Compression ratio increase use a thinner head gasket. I have heard there is a guy in chch that will do a metal head gasket to your specs for about $80. Also you may not need shims depending on if you have an adjustable timing chain and the skim is within the tolerances of the valve lash wipe area. Someone else who is more experienced with it can probably explain this better.

Hope you guys don't mind me posting this here. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... 45&ed=true Its a real sweet flat so if you need somewhere to live in chch give us a call and come have a look. We even have a garage which we could clear out if you need somewhere to put one of your rides.