Jump to content

Brakes issue - sorted


felixx

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, sorry for the LOOONG description, but I thought if you were enough of a GC to read this I better give you all the info.

Car 1967 anglia 105e (drums all round)

The car has been off the road for 10 years or so.

2 years ago I put in new rear wheel cylinders. I was planning to put in front ones too, but for lots of reasons (pregnant wife, no $$, etc) I didnt.

I drained the brake lines as I thought new fluid all the way thru would be good.

(I know I could have just pumped new fluid as I bled the brakes, but I wasnt thinking too clear at the time).

A few weeks ago I got her running and then went to flush the brake lines out and the pedal went to the floor and stayed there.

I took the master cyl out and pumped it a few times and it began to work fine,

Put it back in and pump pump pump no fluid moving but the pedal was going up and down with very little resistance

I disconnected each of the brake lines from the 4 way splitter (no servo) and found that this created a lotof pedal resistance the first time I pushed the pedal. I then flushed the lines thoroughly ( a stubby of brake fluid per wheel) and bled them.

Brakes seemed fine. Took her for a drive to the garage for fresh fuel and air in her tyres and they were good as gold. Firm pedal, able to lock the wheels up at 60kmh etc.

Went to move car out of the garage today and pedal went to the floor. No fluid in master cylinder.

What is my next step?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes if theres no fluid in m/cyl it has to be somewhere, if when its all filled up and bled nicely you still have no brakes it may be the m/cyl itself bypassing the seals when there is resistance in the line ie your shoes contacting the drums, normally when this happens the brakes will bleed ok still as with the bleed nipple open there is sweet fkall resistance in the lines so m/cyl will work normal but as soon as you close it itl bypass

may not be your problem but id check where your fluid has gone, also if you drained the lines and left empty moisture may have gotten into lines and rusted them from the inside out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Front brakes appear fine after dissasembly

Will look at the rears during the week

Will order a complete set of wheel cylinders and a new master cylinder once I get back into the black with the bank !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you find a wheel cylinder has been leaking then you will need to clean everything well on the backing plate, and then take the drum outside, splash a bit of meths in it, and set it on fire.

This will burn off the brakefluid that will have soaked into the pores of the drum friction surface.

Replaceing the shoes on the offending corner is also near to mandatory

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ It was, I refilled it and left the car for a week, like I did last time and it did not empty...

I will check the rears tomorrow and report back..

I suspect the master but I am no mechanic, I have my workshop manual and a clever chap next door so should be ok.

if not I will pay the man the $$ and let him do it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - next step..

Check for puddles under ther car - if nothing then pop the wheels and drums off and check if fluid has leaked around the cylinders/callipers.

If nothing there then pop the fitting out of your brake booster and stick somethin like rolled up paper down to the bottom and then withdraw it to check for evidence of fluids - this will see if all the fluid has drained into the booster..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the passengers side rear is leaking.. well i will order a new cylinder kit off enford and be done with it. Bloody pain in the ass I have driven exactly 3 miles on the last new cylinder (not a kit!) that I put in. However it was about 5 years ago i put it in

I did notice some tiny bubbles in master cylinder, i guess that is fucked too then

cheers for the pointers team.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fronts are good, I bled them all and gave em a jolly good pumping to build up the pressure and make any 'failure' fail, no fluid in any of the brakes, however lots of tiny bubbles began to appear in the resevoir of the master and I could not get the pedal to go 'hard' it was soft soft soft medium, bubbles, soft

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you bleed the brakes starting from the furthest from master? If you've got air anywhere into the system bleed them from scratch working from the furthest to closest, making sure the master never runs dry in between.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...