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ogre's orange lancer of FUCK YES


CaMpylobacter

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Brakes are poo, like stepping in a cow turd like all starion brake conversions for some mystical reason.Gonna track it down and fix it, then maybe you could fix yours too lol.

Just noticed it has braided brake lines in the front as well, they dont pass wofs do they?

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LA currently has Drum rear, standard 19.05mm dia master, rear wheel cylinders dia are 19.01mm

As yet to find specs on starion master etc.Starions are disc rear, so if i bung a starion master in and i stay with the drums int he rear of the LA is it gonna screw things up?

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Yeah quite likely - most brake callipers have larger than 19mm bore pistons.. LOL

you'll most probably end up locking the brakes constantly

The Master Cylinder

So, you have the right pedal leverage and have decided that you want the assistance of a power unit. Now it is time to look at your master cylinder. Back in the olden days, these were simple one-reservoir units that left much to be desired in both performance and safety. Today, master cylinders are packed with high-tech engineering and can make or break your system. Almost all the master cylinders used today are tandem units. This refers to the fact that they have two internal reservoirs: one for the front and one for the rear brakes. One important factor in choosing the right master cylinder is the volume of fluid it holds. For a high-performance system you want to make sure the unit will hold enough fluid to service your needs. More fluid means cooler fluid temps and extra insurance for extreme conditions where high pad wear can compromise fluid levels during extended performance driving events. Remember that as your pads wear down the fluid level in your master will also go down. Generally speaking, you need a larger master cylinder for bigger multi-piston brake systems, and you can go with a smaller, more OEM-sized unit for smaller systems.

The master cylinder holds a good amount of fluid and looks pretty damn nice. When picking the right master cylinder for your ride, be sure to get one with the right bore size for your application.The most critical factor in master cylinder selection is bore size. Bore sizes can range from 5/8 inches upward to 1 1/8 inches or more. The bore size determines the amount of hydraulic pressure and fluid volume that will be sent downstream to the calipers. The actual amount of hydraulic pressure generated is based on the amount of force coming from the pedal or booster being divided by the area in square inches of the master cylinder bore. For example, a master cylinder with a 1-inch bore has .785 square inches or bore area. ( Bore x Bore x .785) If the pedal or booster delivers 500 pounds of force to the master cylinder, the hydraulic pressure will be equal to 500 divided by .785, which would result in 637 psi going to the lines. The displaced volume capacity is then based on the length of the available stroke multiplied by the bore area. It's the same formula that's used to calculate engine displacement for one cylinder.

Generally speaking, if the master cylinder bore is too large, the driver will feel a very hard pedal feel with minimal pedal travel, and will have a difficult time generating the necessary pressure to effectively operate the brake system. If the master cylinder bore size is too small, the driver will be able to generate a lot of pressure, but the pedal may have an excessively long stroke or a very spongy feel. And if the bore size is way too small, the pedal or master cylinder may bottom out before enough volume is pumped to operate the calipers. The best advice would be to consult with the manufacturer of the brake system you will be using and work with them to pick the right size for your application.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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