Simon Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 I'm paranoid that my Corona is going to crack the front off with the extra weight, 550lb front springs and very low with rubber band tyres. Wouldn't be doing it for performance but to stop it cracking. Should I do some minor seam welding when I take the motor out? I doubt I will have room for a strut brace under the bonnet. I guess though usually they don't crack round seams. Could this even make it worse because there is no flex? Not like it's hard. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 just make sure you carefully stitch it like that and dont put too much heat in one place at a time to avoid warpage. maybe also consider if its owrth gussetting anywhere that you think its likely to crack. triangle braces in the corners of the engine bay can help also if you cant fit a brace between the towers - not as good but better than nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 fuck me you're a good artist joe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 Was just going to suggest something similar, but with way less awesome paint skills. Just a strut brace that goes back to the firewall from the strut towers, similar to this http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:qnNr ... ne.jpg&t=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 Yeah. I think I got an alloy one of those of my old Celica that went to fire wall. Think I may have folded it in half though. I just want to know if seam welding it will help for cracks in other places or if it will make it worse because there is less give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 or braces the other way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 or braces the other way Can you rehost that brew? Prudy keen to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 reshosted. do you know of your model corona cracking in any particular places generally? I don't think it would make it worse stich welding the seams like that (I have on my 131) any movement in those areas and the thing has failed. just maybe do where the inner guard meets the firewall also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 Hmm I hardly know of any of my model Corona let alone how they handle bump stops. Can't really go to the front like that Fiat because that front panel of Jap cars is so flimsy. What about just this and some seam stitching? I can't find much info on people cracking strut towers but I know it happens in real slammed cars and fcuks shit up. Maybe I won't worry about it and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 If it cracks, weld it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 That last picture won't achieve anything as far as I can see. The tower is already fairly well attached to the wing, what you want to do is tie it back to another member, ie the firewall to gain strength/rigidity in the tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 If it cracks, weld it up... Yeah. Might just leave it then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 May as well do some stitching while the engine bay is bare. And a bubble-gusset like Joes MS paint art would be worthwhile. Do it once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 I've seen an 80s Toyota that had extra factory gusseting around the top of the strut towers... cant for the life of me remember what it is. MAybe MA61 or MZ10 or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 This is a good read re stitching spacing and gussets (just did my bay bay) http://www.rallyanarchy.com/EscortRally ... 0Shell.pdf If stitched correctly should still allow movement, if fully welded then it becomes stiff . . . well so it says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 This is a good read re stitching spacing and gussets (just did my bay bay)http://www.rallyanarchy.com/EscortRally ... 0Shell.pdf If stitched correctly should still allow movement, if fully welded then it becomes stiff . . . well so it says Heaps of good info there. Thanks Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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