rob Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 I got the complete altezza IRS nugget off trademe for $575 inc shipping from auck->chch, it came from some car importer who was removing it to replace with a factory lsd as this one was "too tight". Definitely worth getting the whole thing cos chances are your 30-year-old f-series diff has pretty tired pinion bearings etc and these swap over fine from the altezza diff into the live-axle housing. Of course you could always buy all new bearings... Cost me $280 for the guy to fit the lsd, pinion, bearings etc and a new pinion seal. $80 too much it would seem. Damnit. Since getting this done, I've been told of another guy who does gearboxes & diffs in chch, will be visiting him next time I need something like this sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Bumping an old thread but i has some awesome good info and it is relevant to what I want to do. I want to shorten an F Estima and throw in an LSD I thought I might try an Altezza Torsen as starters and it might actually teach me how not to spin the back wheels while I save for a better diff, what I would like to know, am I dumb or what? Best way or person to narrow a diff in Christchurch? Best way to shorten the axles, welding I hear is ok for axles this size, what price to spline or will they be too soft? Any info much appreciated. Oh it,s all going into my Starezza as I have decided to build a better doff and throw some decent stoppers into it before my track launch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Torsen F series are great for track work, million times better than single spinner. No good for skids, but I loved mine on the track. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 F estima maybe wide enough, that when shortened to kp length. can get past the step in the axles and get new splines cut. do some measuring 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I reckon I could get past the step but if I do who does them and I have heard that toyota axles are hardened which is the outside and not sure how deep it goes and they are quite big steps, will it make them soft. I don't want to spend money on that to last 6 races. I am pleased to hear about the Torsen good track work as I have one sitting next to the estima diff. cost $330 all up. I plan to run Nissan gt rear brakes and Nissan 280mm 4-pots on the front I may have to do a bit of cutting out the back of the old girl and remount with coilovers and watts linkage or the easier option panhard rod. I have a lot of designing to do over winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I know a little bit about Toyota axles ... I've cut and resplined heaps of them. I have not done an F type one but I've seen them before. I'm currently trying to get rid of 4 x F type diffs on TM for next to nothing. Those F series axles are skinny little fuckers aye ... 27 splines I think last time I counted. I was going to get into narrowing them but i have enuff trouble keeping up with Hilux and Ford ones than to be going dipping into other types. Re the steps in OEM axles, they are all case harded ..harded?? Hardened. Another name for this is Induction harded' The hardening depth is pretty consistent on a OEM axle meaning - it follows the contour of the axle. if the axle has a series of steps along its length, then the profile depth of case harded' (lol!) steel will mimic said steps. I've got pretty rigid (older) gear and some makes/brands of axles cut like butter. Other stuff like Nissssan are big munty hard as fuck lengths of iron that give my gear a workout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I know a little bit about Toyota axles ... I've cut and resplined heaps of them. I have not done an F type one but I've seen them before. I'm currently trying to get rid of 4 x F type diffs on TM for next to nothing. Those F series axles are skinny little fuckers aye ... 27 splines I think last time I counted. I was going to get into narrowing them but i have enuff trouble keeping up with Hilux and Ford ones than to be going dipping into other types. Re the steps in OEM axles, they are all case harded ..harded?? Hardened. Another name for this is Induction harded' The hardening depth is pretty consistent on a OEM axle meaning - it follows the contour of the axle. if the axle has a series of steps along its length, then the profile depth of case harded' (lol!) steel will mimic said steps. I've got pretty rigid (older) gear and some makes/brands of axles cut like butter. Other stuff like Nissssan are big munty hard as fuck lengths of iron that give my gear a workout. I have a bit of knowledge in hardening but not with axles. Unsure but could the estima run out of hardened material? I plan on making the diff about 50-60mm wider than the starlet to help with modern offsets and larger wheels I like your pics on TM btw. An Engineering shop here will weld fatter axles and I will find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 How wide is a OEM starlet diff out of interest (be precise, pse) By running out of hard material I take it you are asking if you cut into the axle shaft deep enuff - will it strike soft material. Ummm - yup on that mate. This is the problem that confronts dudes when picking an axle with a large shaft diameter on which they intend to turn down and cut a smaller than stock spline pattern on. For example ... I had visions of utilizing Falcon axles in a F type diff one time. I had looked at the F type axles and thought hmmm - chopsticks. Why don't I cut the F type spline on the coon ones then use the entire Falcon (BW78) hub/diff casing end and the big arse coon brake setup. But when I measured and determined the F type minor diameter (spline lingo) and compared it to to where the hardening depth ended on the coon axle - I'd have been cutting the splines on near where the coon axle reverted to butter in its soft inner center - if you know what i mean. Its harded' to explain, lol! But I've gone the other way ... i have cut a Hilux spline count onto a skinnier BW78 axle. I ended up taking near nothing off the coon axle prior to cutting in the splines. Its those axles with the blue background on my TM ad. I dunno how well they will work but should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Choice, work. Yea that's my thinking of the F axles. I will do some measurements on the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 While you are measuring ... could you tell me what offset the pinion looks to be from center? If its possible for you. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.