Beaver Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 hey all. the hunters currently in crammed up in my garage while i do a bit of panel work on it before i paint it, and while its not being driven, i thort i may as well take the chance to lower it. im going t get 2inch blocks for the rear, which will actually be a very decent drop as rear tires all ready sit level with the guards, and im going to get the fronts compressed. the blocks are obviously simple, but im a bit stumped with compressing the fronts. at the mo the front has smaller tyres on than the rear, so there is a larger gap between the top of the tire and the body and it looks a bit silly lol as i think the rear has sagged a bit too. i would like to go as low as possible without running into issues of rubbing,scraping, not getting in the driveway etc etc. wats the best way to ensure that i dont run into these problems after ive fitted the compressed springs? should i just see how much i can get them compressed while still being captive and bobs your uncle, or is it a wee more complicated than this? sorry about the wall of text but yeh just wanted to get a few things clear in my head. any tips/help would be appreciated. oh and ive already had the cutties/compressed debate so please no CUTTIES MANG!! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 What type of suspension do these run up front? Find some shocks that suit but are shorter, allowing less spring, cut or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Mcpherson strutage on grunters. typical pomgolian oddballness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLAWLES Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 mmmmm my lovely g/f huntd on these fourms has a hunter ( really nooooo way ) anyway we havnt done the front yet but what we done in the back was we just put in some shorter kyb shocks in the back end ( have to ask her what the part numbers were ) made a massive diff in the arse end and looks and drives millons better i also have herd that ae86 rear springs fit in the front a-ok so give that a wirl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Check out the lovells kings spring websites with measuring the diameter of the springs you have now. It may be easier to call STOCKS and let them do the hard work then hit the wreckers yard and score for bugger all. If you can post the diameter I maybe able to come up with a spring to fit without changing shocks. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUNTD Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Stocks have a listing for the shorter rear shocks. Same as some model coronas, cant remember of top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 could someone give me a quick run down on the best way to remove the shocks? i tryed to follow the manual but it was hell confusing. do i just jack up the car with the jack under the swing arm thing, take the wheel off, chuck on the spring compressers, wind them up a bit, take off the weight by jacking up the actual car, undo the 3 bolts on top of the fender in the engine bay, and then remove any obvoius things that will cause havoc ie calipers etc, and the the whole thing should drop out right? and then do i just undo the big nut on the top of the shock, and will this allow me to take the spring off? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Brew. 1 jack up car and remove wheel. 2 Undo lower arm from base of strut, as well as the tie rod end. 3 Remove caliper, try doing do without undoing the hose. If needed remove the clip holding the hose in place on the shock and carefully hacksaw a cut into the bracket and bend it so you can get the flexihose out. 4 Undo the three bolts in the engine bay, strut will fall out. 5 loosen the top hat nut DO NOT REMOVE IT 6 Bung on your spring compressors and tighten 7 Remove the strut top nut. 8 deal to the spring 9 reinstall top hat 10 Reinstall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 saviour!! thanks man i knew it wasnt hard but yeh just wanted to make sure i knew wat i was doing haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 Brew.1 jack up car and remove wheel. 2 Undo lower arm from base of strut, as well as the tie rod end. 3 Remove caliper, try doing do without undoing the hose. If needed remove the clip holding the hose in place on the shock and carefully hacksaw a cut into the bracket and bend it so you can get the flexihose out. 4 Undo the three bolts in the engine bay, strut will fall out. 5 loosen the top hat nut DO NOT REMOVE IT 6 Bung on your spring compressors and tighten 7 Remove the strut top nut. 8 deal to the spring 9 reinstall top hat 10 Reinstall i followed the above instructions, but where it says undo lower arm from base of stru, i undid the two bolts that attacht the ball joint bit to the bottom of the strut, and then should the lower arm fall away? or may it need some persuasion? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Yeah may need a little bit of a tap. Prolly never been apart since the car was built. Small coldchisel on the join should suffice. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 sweet thanks man, ill give it a go tomoro. just wanted to double check befor i go mashing away lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Just thinking, you might have to undo the sway bar, cant remember years since worked on one of those old girls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 oh sweet ill check it out when i get a chance. shouldnt be to tricky so ill probably do it anyway. there still seemed to be a fair bit of force pushing the strut up so yeh that could be why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 If you jack both sides up generally your sway bar shouldn't have much force on it edit: Just to make sure, you'll want to do this anyway cause the sway bar will go PING! and probably smash into your hand when you try to take one side off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 7, 2008 Author Share Posted September 7, 2008 hey guys thanks for the tips, i got one side off, other should be a breze cause i know exactly what to do now. i just dont have a socket big enuf for big nut on top haha got a mate bringing me some tomoro tho. so hopefully will have both springs out within a day or to, cause im actually ment to be studying haha. once i have measured them up, i myt see if i can find some shorter springs off something that will fit in. if not, probably just get them compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 right...haha. ive run into trouble trying to loosen the big nut on the top of the strut. when i apply force on it, the thin rod of the shock in the stut just spins around, so i cant get the nut undone. should i just hold onto this bit with a pipewrench and yeh...haha or is there something im doing wrong? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 That can be a bugger sometimes. I usually get around the issue by undoing that nut while the car is sitting on the ground. ie before it is jacked up. The pressure applied on the suspension from it sitting on the ground is enough to hold the shaft in the shock tight and stop it from moving. If its too late, for instance you have already pulled the strut out sometimes you are lucky enough to have an allen key fitting in the top or a small notch that you can put a spanner or vice grips on to. If you are still unlucky enough that it doesn't have any of these then yeah, vice grips on the strut shaft with a rag or cloth also wrapped around to protect it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 easiest way is to undo it while strut is still in the car and theres pressure on it holding it still. dont undo it fully, just break the seal kinda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pies Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 be warned, use protection (lol) when vice gripping! otherwise you will fuck your shafts (lol) and it will ruin the seals in your shock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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