fuel Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 yeah for sure but as to how much I'm not sure yet. Was hoping this weekend to whip the box off the G63B and put them side by side and see how much higher the V6 is. There's heaps of clearance between the bonnet and the G63B originally so hopefully there's just enough for the V6. The 6G72 was only 20mm in height higher than my 6A12, and the 6A12 fits well into the engine bay of my DD Galant with a low sweeping bonnet line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I've only just come across this thread. Were you going to use the GTO computer or something else? Maybe I missed it? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Hey Steve, Will be using a Link G4 Storm ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Hey Steve,Will be using a Link G4 Storm ECU. Hmmmmm. Also , that photo, can't remember which page, the TT motor with the head off. From the photo it didn't look like there were any valve reliefs in the pistons? must be just the photo. For your exhaust manifolds, if you could get a pair of the cast rear TT manifolds, you could mount the turbos on them, via adaptors if needed or even some other turbos via adaptors. Far easier and far more reliable than building manifolds from scratch. Flanges aren't a problem any more. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I admit that actually isn't a photo of a GTO motor, actually a 6G74... I knew you would catch me out sooner or later haha.. it was just the first photo I could find to show the difference between non-MIVEC and MIVEC pistons. That rear cast manifold would put the turbos hard up into the strut towers, I want to mount the turbos lower and closer in toward the block to clear the chassis rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 What I meant with the manifolds was that if the manifolds themselves will fit between the strut towers, all you need is a flange and pipe, the turbos could be mounted anywhere...... like on top of the cam covers with the oil draining straight into the cover. You're going to be tight on space at best. Then build your intake manifold around the space that's left. Just another useless suggestion. Something else I forgot, the 30M block doesn't have the oil squirters that the GTO TT block has. I don't know if that's important or not. Maybe find out one day.They can be put in though. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 there's not enough room really on either side of the heads up close to the top of the strut towers, or above the heads etc, definitely keen to mount the turbos down low so downpipes aren't going to be a huge length. I'm sure you told me the GTO blocks don't have oil squirters either! Oh well I've got the spare GTO block I can rob the squirters from and use in the MIVEC block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 It's only the TT blocks that have the squirters. Funnily enough though the 4 cyl mivec blocks DO have them. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 4G63 AMG N/A has them also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hey, just read your post on 3SI. You haven't yet figured out that the 2 sumps are totally different & not interchangable? Same goes for oil & waterpumps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 No have not yet figured that out yet regarding the sumps - oh well alloy sump it is. I knew the oil pump wasn't interchangable but why would I need to swap it over? Being mounted north/south it doesn't really matter which side the oil pump and filter are on, there's no driveshaft anywhere near it like there would be if it were mounted in a GTO. I actually prefer the MIVEC's orientation as it puts the power steering and air con pumps on the same sides they were originally on with the G63B. Only the alternator is on the other side but it's no biggie to extend the wiring loom to it. I was going to look into using the RWD water pump as it puts the thermostat housing up front, but need to sort out how it's all routed, the 3.5 GDI has a different pipe which joins the outlet from the rear of the heads back up to the thermostat housing at the front - was going to see if I could somehow re-use the existing pipe in the valley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I knew the oil pump wasn't interchangable but why would I need to swap it over?. Maybe as an attempt to make the sump fit. The sump bolts to the block at the sides, the main seal at the back and the oil pump at the front. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 That is true - so given that I wont be changing oil pumps and that the sumps aren't interchangable looks like I'll be sticking with the alloy sump. I really need to start tearing down both motors and comparing each parts for myself instead of just going from what I've read so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 That way you can't go wrong. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 After chat on other thread, had quick read of yours to see what was going to replace engine. And sh\t, gunna be a weapon. Is the new vee engine alloy block? just asking re: weight distribution etc. Also is the convo above to do with sump for the engine to suit rwd? (from what I read the engine you are building is the fwd one?) also (may have missed it) but what gbox are you running. Cross members etc look tidy por15'd how much did you go through for that/how many coats/how much prep? (just wondering how much I should order/am also doing floor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 it's a cast iron block I'm afraid. Standard weight split was 51/49 with the G63B so I'm hoping the extra 75-100ish kgs of engine isn't going to upset the distribution horribly. the two donor engines are one from a 30M MIVEC Diamante and the other from a GTO Twin turbo so both are transverse layout, which will need to be modified for longitudinal orientation to clear the crossmember and steering linkages etc. The Pajero sump is mid-sump so is not suitable, however I really need to go wrecker hunting and checking out the configuration of other 6G72/4 based commercials like the Triton/L200, Challenger, L400/Delica Space Gear etc. I'm unsure which gearbox to use, and that's where I am the most stuck at the moment. I kinda need to sort a gearbox or at least get a definite idea of which box to use in order to start figuring out where and how to mount the engine. I was hoping to find a 2WD Triton V6 manual box but it appears they are rare as fuck (if they even exist...), otherwise I could try finding a manual bellhousing from a V6 4WD Triton/Pajero (at least these exist) and hope it shares the same gearbox pattern with a later model Triton with a high torque engine like the 3.2 Diesel or similar. Otherwise there are the Toyota boxes like the W58 or R154 to look at, but coming across them isn't cheap (especially for the R154) and the W58 may not hold up well. I used about 1/3 of a 1L can and did about 2-3 coats on everything and just wire brushed with kerosene to prep - POR15 likes to have a rough and slightly rusty surface to work with anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Have you used any on your floor? Have been told that 500mls should give you 2 coats for a corolla floor as it spreads quite well. Think I will most probably get 1L and see how I go from there. Also GTO's are they 4wd then (being transverse?) just always assumed RWD I guess the gearbox issues will also be if you are sourcing from a commercial type vehicle, what the ratios are like and depending on what you get your diff from that ratio aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 yeah the whale shape GTO is transverse AWD. Last longitudinal engined car Mitsubishi made was the Starion! Frightening eh? 1L should be plenty, it does go far. I have two ratios I can pick from but they aren't all that far apart so who knows how it will go. I would hope the the diesels just have a mega low diff ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I'm unsure which gearbox to use, and that's where I am the most stuck at the moment. I kinda need to sort a gearbox or at least get a definite idea of which box to use in order to start figuring out where and how to mount the engine. I was hoping to find a 2WD Triton V6 manual box but it appears they are rare as fuck (if they even exist...), otherwise I could try finding a manual bellhousing from a V6 4WD Triton/Pajero (at least these exist) and hope it shares the same gearbox pattern with a later model Triton with a high torque engine like the 3.2 Diesel or similar. Otherwise there are the Toyota boxes like the W58 or R154 to look at, but coming across them isn't cheap (especially for the R154) and the W58 may not hold up well. the only 6g7x 2wd tritons i have seen are a few of the new shape ones and iv only seen 1 manual so gearboxes may not be cheap anyway. i drove alot of those tritons when i was at mitsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 What about a T5 or T56 out of a commodore or falcon? although I guess probably not any cheaper than toyota stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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