davidian Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 super-noob question: how do i get the ball end off a mk1 esky? shits been in there for.. ooh.. 37 odd years without being taken off. i cant figure how to lock/hold the steering arm still while i undo the nut... chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 dont know what design eskies use, but either put the steering joint back into the steering arm, loosen off the lock nut and then take the steering joint off the steering arm and you should be away laughung. If not, attack the steering rod with a wire brush/degreaser and underneath all the road grease/37 odd years of shit there should be somewhere that takes a suitably sized open ended spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 There's normally a flat on the steering arm you can put a spanner on. Otherwise, moles, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 There's normally a flat on the steering arm you can put a spanner on. Otherwise, moles, I suppose. nah its all round from the ball end to the rubber sleeve. i changfed from mk1 setup to mk2, and mk2 struts have a integrated steering arm where on the mk1 it bolts into the back of the strut (the part between the ball end and strut. kinda hard to explain. ill try get a pic. basically needed to get the steering arm (strut end) off and it wouldnt budge so i had to smash the shit out of it. finally popped off but i managed to compress the thread on the ball end so nut wont go back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 you mean the tierod end?? , i cant remember if they come as one unit (inner and outer tierod end ) or by them selves , the outer tierod end is usually a taper fit into the steering link to hub setup , so you have to smash the bit that the rod goes into to *shock* it out itl just drop out then , be good if you have pics so we know eaxctly what your talking bou though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 always put a nut on a tread if it's going to get the hammer treatment. Are you refering to balljoints in the TCA's? it's always best to use a removal tool which slides in and the has a threaded bolt that forces it out. you have to hammer it under the boot.. ffs watch where you are hitting as well as where it is going as you don't want to split the boot but you also don't want to bash your fingers like I did and ended up at the A/E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 cheers dudes ill take a pic tonight to clear it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 So the nut wont even come off? Try buying some unseize type shit to get bolt off or CRC. If ya need to lock steering could try undoing it with car on ground.. or leave opposite wheel of car on ground. I hate those ball joint splitters, work most times but often wreak the rubber. Putting load on the arms while wacking bj's often healps alot. Scissor jack is helpfull. If still cant crack it can heat it up, will stuff rubber tho as expected. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 took the nut off the strut end.. the thread that goes into the strut is stuffed tho so i need to take the other nut off (the one on the steering arm- opposite side of the rubber boot) ill take the pix tonight. cant drop the car on the ground just yet as both front struts are out and front is sitting on rims, back on axle stands. chur bo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 So you're just trying to get the track rod end out of the steering arm? Use a ball joint splitter, screw type, not the tuning fork one that f*cks the gaiter, get loads of tension on it and then hit the side of the steering arm with a hammer. Should eventually come out with a very loud bang. Failing that, find someone with a 20 ton hydraulic press to separate it. Only needed that on an Armstrong Siddley Sapphire, which uses a straight, not tapered joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 this is the nut i need to undo. is the ball joint splitter what i needs? ^^^ fuckered thread ^teh new rims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 that a tierod end , and that how you dont get one out what sits where the red is here is what you hit , it distorts it and lets the taper just drop out is the blue a nut by itself or attached, look in an escort maual and ittl tell you have to get this off if not you may have to pull the whole tierod out and undo it ina vice , why do you need to remove this??? well you need a new one now but why in the first part?? they are easy to get outer tierods are their name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 thats a tie rod end , and there is a prime example of how you DONT get one out , you hit the side of the dragarm thing that its goes into and it pops out , and if theres no squre endge of the tierod then you might have to pull it out , put it in vice to undo it , count the exact amounts of turn you uno beacuse this determines toe in / out on a car cheer man. so can i just take the tie rod out or do i have to take out the rack more or less? btw, believe me i tried tapping on the side, lubrication.. allsorts. resolved to hammering as final measure. other side popped right out 1st time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 post edited*** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 if youre not too farmiliar with mk1/2 escort struts ill go down and snap a pic of why i needed to undo it. thanks dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 ive got an original mk2 escort workshop at mums but that in rotorua so no use , ive been round one have owned one but a bit foggy on how they go , hit up meth he's clued up as Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 ok heres the mk1 shit. note independent steering arm (2) heres the mk2 shit.. steering arm as part of the strut so yeah.. needed to take the steering arm off as im going with the mk2 setup, in the process i fucked the tie rod thread. cool cause ive got mk2 steering here as well as long as i can take this shiz off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Mk. 2 racks use different length steering arms - shorter ones. Can't remember if the steering arms are in the same relative position to the axles. You may have fun getting this tracked ( I find 0.5 - 1 degree toe in is best... gets a bit too lively with more ). Got some old tyres to get you to Tony's??? All you should need to do is to loosen the lock nut and unscrew the end. New ones are $100 each at Palmside. Anyone know of a cheaper place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 tony's? nah no tyres yet.. so.. i might have to use the mk2 steering as well? yeah loosen the locknut is the tricky part as the tie rod rotates (obviously) but is round so you cant really lock it still Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 You will need to use mk2 tie rod ends man, there a different size to the mk1 ones, mk1 = imperial mk2 = metric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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