ta63-1uzze

RWD and front wheel drive and four wheel drive all have completely different alignment setups. toe is something that I believe is more important than camber or caster as it feels to me to have the most effect on how the car feels under heavy driving conditions, so with that in mind here is some shit to think about. this is right out of my wheel alignment book. I have been doing wheel alignments for the past 3 years and still I don't feel like I know enough to hand out advice. Positive toe occurs when the front of both tires begins to face each other. Positive toe permits both wheels to constantly generate force against one another, which reduces turning ability. However, positive tow creates straighter driving characteristics. Typically, rear wheel drive vehicles have slightly positive tow in the rear due to rolling resistance – causing outward drag in the suspension arms. The slight positive toe straightens out the wheels at speed, effectively evening them out and preventing excessive tire wear. Negative toe is often used in front wheel drive vehicles for the opposite reason. Their suspension arms pull slightly inward, so a slight negative toe will compensate for the drag and level out the wheels at speed. Negative toe increases a cars cornering ability. When the vehicle begins to turn inward towards a corner, the inner wheel will be angled more aggressively. Since its turning radius is smaller than the outer wheel due to the angle, it will pull the car in that direction. Negative toe decreases straight line stability as a result. Any slight change in direction will cause the car to hint towards one direction or the other. you need to get an alignment that is for your car. This is the building blocks of your adjustment. then you can set it up as to your driving style , so if you find you turn late and hard then more camber will help bite in and stop under steer etc. get friendly with your alignment specialist . take a video camera to the track , install one in the car, and look at what's happening when your driving . this will help diagnose any issues so you can attack them when it comes time for alignment .

mate got any good updates coming? I don't follow many threads but this one is my favourite .

yeah the 2 way lsd's are not nice for general driving, 1.5 way is meant to be allot nicer and less under steer as its not locked on deceleration . I have been told you can change them from 1.5 to 2 and vice versa . I have not pulled any of my lsd's down as they are all brand new so I can not confirm this . if you do find out would be interested in seeing how its done .

yeah my issue was I couldn't find any plate lsd units. so I tried the torsen, but as long as you know what to expect then you wont be disappointed or waste any time trying to fix it . one thing I can say that helps is make sure you have some suspension drupe , this helps to stop it from destroying its self when you get into driving aggressively . cause lifting a wheel pretty much guarantees destruction. yeah hippo is quite a character, he's not on this forum , was heavily involved in club k for ages, not sure if he is now to be honest, he buggered of to Christ church. I can say that if it wasn't for him moving down there for work and missus then it would not have been sold. we would probably be doing what you are doing to it now and drinking huge amounts of beer, listing to heavy metal at blaringly loud volumes chopping and welding . . . ah I miss the good old days

oh, shit I didn't know about them , to late now . I just picked up my bc mx73 suspension, I guess it doesn't make to much difference now ,will be able to adjust everything now anyway . so all is okey I will still be making a cross brace for the rear but will do that once I can put the car back on the floor

Ah. Sweet I get it. Total width divide by 2 Then take that measurement and minus it from the backspace, that equals offset. Thanks boys, was as simple as that, just needed to be explained . . Thanks . I agree it should be sticky thread. I bet this is a very common question . I couldn't find any simple explanations last night and I was getting frustrated , calculators were no help as I don't have the correct wheels to measure in the first place.

so I understand that there is different offsets, and there meanings, but how do I turn raw data into an offset ? what I have is some measurements from the hub face on my car, but I am not sure how to apply these measurements into an offset. so far I have from the face of the hub I can go 100mm/4 inch's towards the strut " negative" from hub face, and from the hub face to the lip of my flares is 140mm/5.5 inch's "positive" . so does the offset represent a percentage or a physical measurement ie : would the offset be negative 40mm from the above measurements ???

so yet again I have changed jobs, worked out that I was over fixing other people cars. and even thought I up skilled I just couldn't get the pay I wanted. so I have jumped in the deep end and now I am an apprentice cnc machinist/tool maker. back to the bottom of the pecking order once again. ANYWAY. . . . so couldn't move around in the garage, needed to re decorat Started by making a dedicated metal working station, something that I could bolt everything to so they stop moving around when loading up. couple hours later I had this bad boy Then the move around , shit is much better this way !! So cool to have my tools at home, fuck yeah! So got some gas and continued making exhaust. . . And had to bend up some ten mm rod for hangers, I couldn't get my hands on a gas set, so I managed to borrow and old school torch. this thing is so bad as that I went and bought my self-one for any time I need some heat!!! it got the rod to cheery red, so not quite white hot, but hot enough to bend and easily manipulate. this is a paraffin burner, or as we call them in new Zealand kerosene torch. I made some washers on the lathe at work, slid them on . Then I made a pinching tool so I could heat up and form the ends of the rod so that the rubbers won’t fall off . It was all really good fun , never formed anything before so this was a sweet thing to learn how to do . And since that is all done I decided to plug up some of the extra cooling system barbs that I won’t be using . So it took this amount of fucking around to drill out the old fittings and tap them for a 1/8 bspt plug. I did a couple more but you get the idea, this was hard because nothing is flat or straight to drill and tap. I also decided to mill up the original idle air control valve, got rid of the cooling barbs on this too, this is what it looked like originally and now this is my adapter plate , milled and new tinny air filter, IAC completed ! with that all done I decided to move back to suspension and wheels . I worked out that the spring rates from the Honda springs are up the shit, and they are not heavy enough. and if I cut them any smaller they need keeper springs. So I borrowed some siliva suspension, and I made some rough template spring hats, my idea was to move the spring down so that the top mount could be narrower to make it fit into the rear shock mount. well long story short it all didn't work , really fucked me off . I got so fed up with trying to design and make suspension work that I threw in the towel and bought some mx73 bc's. so now I am waiting for them to arrive. since I couldn't get them right away I thought I would tape on the flares so I could start looking at rims, borrowed my good mates wheels again for measuring . 8 inch on the front 9 inch on the rear and still got a lot to fill. looks like I will be buying some custom wheels ! my pockets are hurting already and I haven't even found out the price for them yet

with the diff you can only use the center., so you keep your housing axels, stub axels crown wheel and pinion. basically you use the whole diff apart from the centre. you will have to set the backlash and have some shims made up to fit it together correctly. make sure you don't mix up the outer bearing shells from the torsen as you need them and they are paired together when built. I have done this before , I also have a ta63 ( go figure lol) . I used a bigger torsen lsd and fitted it into a f series housing , basically the same conversion that you are doing now, and to be completely honest it was a waste of time, they are shit . if you pick up a wheel and drop it ie race track , then it will explode and leave you with mushy fucked everything. if you plan to do skids or try and drift it then it will open up mid slide and send you uncontrollably into a spin. if you upgrade you motor and put heaps of power through it , it will fuck out twice as fast. they are no good to be honest, only good for traction racing. I tried different oil , I tried different wheel setups to add more grip. nothing helped, I even pulled it down cleaned and inspected it , all was good. you just cant beat a plate type lsd . on a side note, I am good mates with hippo, I was there when he got this , he had it for a couple years, I welded the diff, the guy he got it from had 2 this was his parts car. I know some of its history. he didn't do much with it , had to move house a couple times , ect, never really had the time or place to do anything with it. glad to see someone is going to spend the time to get it back on the road

lol, its kind of obvious isn't it ?? the top mount is fucked. so the spring still has load on it, its still holding the weight of the car but its not being held centre thus the spring can move side to side and still be captive .

yeah bro this is where I got all the information I needed to scientifically calculate the correct length and size piping , it explains everything very well. but be warned nothing is a true science when you add the variables of different motor , designs, location in the world etc. but in saying that this is better than just guessing or using that dumb ass "put the biggest" you can find on it . http://www.amazon.co.uk/Four-stroke-Performance-Tuning-Graham-Bell/dp/1859604358 I thought that this book was very good and easy to follow .

can you just put a 5 mm packer in between the cross member and the chassis rail? like sandwiched in between the cross member and the car . that will that give you enough clearance on the sump?? the splines that go into the rack should have enough room to slide up that much. is that maybe a answer to your sump issues? if not I would be cutting up the sump to fix the clearance issue, way less work then fucking with the firewall . easier to get another sump , much harder to get a new firewall hahaha

the gears are helical gears , constant mesh. if it was not thrust bearings then only the contact patch would change, with lateral change ie the thrust bearing worn out then the backlash would change. contact pattern would make it whine, but backlash cerates clunking or rattling

if you have a dti gauge and a manual for the gearbox , you can quickly whip of the tail shaft and measure the out put shaft end float. this will be a great way to check the back end of the gearbox's thrust bearing . you will need to drop the box to check the input shaft thrust bearing, but its done in the same way. this is what I would do if you locate the sound to the gearbox .if they are worn , you will have excessive end float , this makes the backlash between gears huge and provided play and movement for the shaft to bounce back and forth between load and unload ie light pedal feathering , and that is where I think you are getting your problem . but its a little early for diagnoses like that . but its an idea to go with. now just have to try and prove it he he he

I highly doubt it is caused from ignition. I understand your theory but ignition advance/retard changes instantly with any pedal movement , things like pedal position and oxygen present in exhaust stream will drastically change ignition depending on what you are asking the engine to do. The thought pattern that I can see in my mind tells me that its more likely that you input/output shaft bearing and more likely your thrust bearing's are worn inside the gearbox. I would say you are experiencing the sound now because the new engine makes more torque from very down low where its spinning at a much slower rate whilst being applied with a lot more torque then the pervious engine would supply at the same gearbox rpm. basically Appling more thrust down the shafts loading the thrust and shaft bearing more. and by what you have said it sounds like it is doing it in more than just 4th , I say just 4th because this is direct drive and cancels out all other gears. thus leading me to assume that the fault is either input or out put shaft or drive line. I think the first thing to do is to jack it up on 4 stands, apply light braking , have someone run the car up to the speed that makes the fault, then get under the car with a stethoscope or a hard handled screwdriver , put the listening device on the gearbox , around the tail shaft housing , then the centre driveshaft hanger bearing , the pinion of the diff, etc. basically listen to everything you can to determine where the sound is defiantly coming from . it could be a hanger bearing, diff pinion bearing beginning to fail or internal side bearing failing inside the diff transmitting sound through the drive line etc. fist thing to do is to find the source of the sound , and then make logical steps from there, best to do this sooner then later because sounds like this can be the indicator before total destruction.

I also have used the tig a bit to do panel steel, my best recommendation is to prep everything best as possible, make the new patch fit best as you can , this will help when it all tries to pull , big gaps tend to pull harder then no gaps . cut the rust shit steel away about an inch or so from any rust, so you have good strong THICK metal to bond too . and clean the shit out of before any welding, make that shit shine , tig doesn't like contamination at all . don't just start welding it willy nilly , practice your run with the torch until you know you can get a nice bead down . with good view and easy hand control, sucks when you have to move and end up dipping your tungsten and as always with welding body stuff move around a lot so you don't concentrate to much heat into one spot. that's about the thick of it as to my understanding. oh and beer always makes welding nicer, it gets hot as fuck and a cold beer is nice and rewarding : )

nailed it. its also why its so hard to start. and back firing . your timing is not correct, check the order as stated by looking at cams whilst turning over the engine by hand. be careful trying to run it until you know this is correct or you're going to ruin your engine ! Haynes manual for a 2t or 3t are cheap as , probably get one from "tradme" for 5 bucks. keep it simple , don't cut corners, you can make this go with nothing more than a Haynes manual for guidance. you have air fuel compression and spark already just have to get it in he right order : )

the first thing you should check is the earths , and by check I mean remove and sand and clean your earth straps, this could be as simple as not having a good earth on the engine. you should have a couple earths at least. normally one big around the starter and maybe one or two smaller ones , so clean them and see if it helps . if that doesn't help at all I would be looking at getting your alt bench tested at an auto electrical shop. they spin them up and load them up . best way to check it to be honest : )

so have been a bit busy, finally paid of my debt so now I can spend up large on the project yay!!!! started of with some little jobs that I have been meaning to do for awhile , made a sweet little guard for the lowest part of the fuel system, doesn't need it but I felt like making some shit started making some headers, I have never made them before so I thought it would be hard as ,, but it was actually easy .I know they are not tuned to length, and I did spend a lot of time trying to imagine a way of doing this but at the end of the day I am not looking for maximum power just need to get the exhaust gas out of the engine ! I really enjoyed making these. and I cant wait for the next exhaust system project . I think if I had the time I could make these much better , but they will be fine for what I need pasanger side drivers side note steering in the way hahaha, this should be fun ! ran out of gas ,so haven't finished welding yet . well that's enough for now, back to the garage !

I have personally have built a torsen lsd from a altezze into a f series diff, it is just the centre that can be used, the pinion and crown wheels don't swap over. I used original f series stub axels. I had to make custom side shims to get the correct preload on the side bearing and the correct backlash between the pinion and the crown wheel, this didn't take very long to make., bit of time on a lathe is all. the stub axels for factory lsd are shorter . not by much , and not the splined part, just the overhang. they may need trimming down if you have the longer ones. BUT , I wouldn't every do it again, the toresn lsd is shit for anything but traction racing, if you plan to do burnouts and try and drift it I would advise you not to waste your time with it. Toyota lsds are hard to find and not very good, best to save up your bucks and get a trd or a cusco and never have to worry about it again I found that the torsen would act like a open if you get to much loss of traction to one wheel, like if you try snake it on the second flick it would open up to a huge one wheeler .and if you have short stroke suspension with not a lot of travel , and you get a wheel of the ground when it hits the ground again the torque will destroy the torsen and blow it into a million bits. they are crap for abuse they cant handle it at all . best of luck to you to find a true plate type lsd, they are worth the money in my opinion .

I think you need to learn how to walk before you run. There is a lot of vodo when it come to engine building but in reality it takes about a day or 2 to remove strip clean and reassemble an engine, a k series should take not more than 10 hours they are absolutely gold to work on, so so easy. I spent the last 15 years of my life being a mechanic, and there is so much shit that you don’t have to know because you don’t need to use it every day . There is also a fuck load of stuff you have to know to be able to do your job properly and its never ending, every day I learn something new. but in saying that you don’t need to know every last specification of your motor, even if you could learn every aspect of building a engine and making it hotted up you still wont be able to do it at home and you will need an engine builder to do things like overbore blocks, skim heads, vacuum test valves ect. . . I am trying not to be too negative as I don’t want this to come across as a put down, but there is a reason that engine builders are around, they are there to make sure the final clearances are correct, to make sure the compression ratio is what it needs to be, that the cam height isn’t to harsh for the valve springs used. There is a whole trade based upon building engine and that is because it can take a life time to learn all this shit. My honest opinion is k series motor is one of the most simplest and easiest motors to work on, and if you want to build an engine and learn all that goes with it, buy the Haynes manual and an old motor and do what the book tells you, all the information that you will need to know is in the book, now if you need to machine blocks, cc the pistons ect that is what engine builders do, you can’t get around not needing them when building a modified engine. You also don’t need to know how to do their job , that is what they are there for , you tell them what you want to accomplish and they make it happen. Almost like getting your car painted, you know the colour they do the work. It only takes a couple hours to build an engine, 90 per cent of the time is cleaning painting and making it look nice, the last couple hours are actually putting it together, so go get a motor pull it apart and slowly clean everything. Then get a book. sit down and read it, then put the thing together. When you get stuck then ask us a question. Otherwise what your asking is imposable, almost like “tell me your trade, but not all of it just the bits I need to know”. : p ?

it wont be fine if you keep driving on it though , if you have excessive backlash or pinion bearing failure, which is what this could be , then the diff fluid will be full of metal, this will slowly fuck everything with a hardened surface. And wont be good for your clutch and frictions disks. best to pull it apart and check everything is ok and reassemble to factory specifications before and damage is done to the lsd centre. is it leaking fluid at the front pinion seal ?

ley me know how it goes, what you find out, price and tupe of setup . also how they set up the rear ?

Make sure you get the head tested; it’s not much about 200 bucks roughly. get a quick vacuum test , check for hardness too (if its alloy) ,and nice light skim,. The vacuum test will tell you if there are any cracks if so move onto a pressure test to find the cracks, and repair if needed/can be done. The hardness test tells you if the head is gone soft if so it’s not useable and you need a new one. And light skim makes sure the new gasket will bolt down evenly and prevent failure again. Even if you didn’t see the gauge go to hot it doesn’t mean it hasn’t over heated, could have had a hot spot in the head due to lack of coolant flow, could have had no water in the top of the engine thus the temp sensor won’t read as its not submerged in water, even an air pocket, therefor there could be damage that you don’t know about, and seeing as its not cheap to do the head gasket you don’t want to have to do it twice. Also pays to get new head studs as some are torque to yield meaning they stretch when torqued down and that makes them not re-useable Talk to your local engine rebuilder / repairer, discuss prices and get what you need, I use east city engine rebuilders for my homer jobs as I get along well with the owner/operator and he gives me good prices. My 2 cents .

Yes they have a module that has uses an optical sensor input from the steering shaft (cabin side) this tells the ecu the steering angle ,also it uses a speed sensor of the gearbox so that at high speed you don’t have full power to the pump as it makes the steering to light. The pump has 3 possibly 4 power inputs ( i can’t remember as it’s been so long since i have played with one) you could just wire the pump to mid speed, so the pump is always on , key on power, this is not a problem and it is how most hot rod / stock car / modifiers run there pumps. If you have an output from the gearbox or even from an aftermarket ecu then you could potentially use the factory mr2 steering control module, just need to fit up the angle sensor I used one of these pumps on my old car it works well as a single speed pump.