azzurro

Pretty sure the bolt pattern is the same accross all the small downdraft webers so both should bolt up to the fannymould no problem. However actual choke holes may be at different ends and linkages can change around sides and rotation directions and the dcd will be taller than the newer dgv (and a different top) so more likely to have linkage and filter dramas than manifold fit problems

Painting day Not too much in the way of prep, mostly lots of Wax and grease remover and a stripper wheel for the worst/easiest accessible bits Half a roll of masking tape later... Much better, like 1000x better, should be real easy to spot oil leaks now! Just dont look too closely... in addition to the poor prep multiplied by painting outside to the power of the 'pretty hard to do a really good job' nature of an engine bay, i also had a bit of equipment failure/operator error and dribbled runs everywhere. Oh well, most of them will be covered by engine bay things soon enough and its way tidier looking than before

This little guy right here, And probably the gearbox seal for good measure New box needed a few bits swapped over including the bell housing, and just need to order a rear seal (28-47-8) to reassemble. Old gearbox oil pan complete with metallic sparkle flakes Then moved onto the engine and I: drained the oil took off the back plate and water basted the coolant galleries (eeeewww) I then took off the old head, old gasket was pretty compressed (sished into dome) but no blow outs Scraped the block took off the sump and straightened the dents in the base and painted it removed oil pump and cleaned it - probably need a new one the teeth are scored and the interior of the block suggests a history of lack of oil changes and probably the reason for the bearings checked the front and rear main bearings all look pretty new and good (remember to re-torque!) end float was also in spec (it had been suggested as a source for the noise + the thrust washers are right by the leaky crankseal ) Checked a big end bearing (looks new) and dropped a cylinder - the rings look newish/aftermarket in the original FIAT pistons, Cylinders look ok, no vertical scoring or lips anyway, i think they've been ball honed. Anyway, i think its had a ring and bearing job not too many kms ago so thats just fanbloodytastic by me. Painted the block Plonked the new head on it Greasy hands so no pics of all that but this is the new head on the old block. I need a few manifold bolts and some Hylomar Blue and RTV to fit new gaskets and stuff so the engine is stalled for now and its time for a beer.

A bit of head prep while its on the bench, much easier to set the shims and everything with the head off! Also made these restrictors for the oil feeds to the cam boxes. These are M8 grub screws with a 3.5mm hole drilled in them. they will help to - increase the effective oil pressure at the main bearings - reduce the tendency for the cam boxes to fill up with oil under sustained high rpm Drilled and tapped into the feeds in the head, the cam boxes go on top (valve is to the left) Also yanked the engine and box This is the bay after a good waterblast! I will probably give it a waft of paint while i can, and wrap the messy wiring room, and move a couple of things around, battery in the rear maybe. Sorry for the shitty pic, my hands were pretty greasy, but not as greasy as the area around the flogged out crank seal which is the actual reason to yank this all out. Nothing like a wee bit of scope creep.

these Weber DCOE 40 - 151's popped up at a good price I <3 DOORTSso i jumped on them straight away and picked them up from @dspec_tt131 the next night Ive already pulled them apart and checked the jetting, they are in pretty good nick and the jetting is even pretty close. (They were on a pretty hot mini http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2015/9/3/mini-mod-1976-leyland-mini ) Ive ordered a few jets that should put them in the ball park along with the missing fuel banjos and throttle levers and spacers. Got the Holley Regulator and the Innovate AFR Guage with them too, so it will be great to actually test the tune directly. I also got a couple of these low pressure fuel pumps and the K&N filers in a Rock Auto close out sale a while ago. Obviously they will need a manifold. CHECK (already in stock!) I also collected my 'big valve' head i got off trade me a couple years ago for $30 to bolt it all to i suspect something went though the inlet based on the dents in the dome and a new exhaust valve and seat in cylinder 1. It also came with reground cams that look like they've never been run, dunno if they are performanace grind or not but everything is clean and new looking so im sendin it.

@Abarth from the shelf in my shed, why? shim tool was from autoricambi.us i think, shims are collected from various spare engines and etc there is also a specially bent screwdriver with a specially sized end and a magnet on a stick for getting those slimy buggers out of the bucket can borrow if you want? Rule number one of of shim-club is: one shim in one shim out

Yay burgers. @Shakotom reminder can you please bring that cdi?

very nice cars @Aip, your interiors look very nice, not seen a blue one before, makes me want to drive mine, do you have any more pictures or a story?

Drove this around a bit int he last few weeks, and its going better for it. Ebay treasures Driving it showed there is still a few things to sort out and, the flippin left turning noise is back. General running, engine is a bit tappy. Checked the valve clearances, its about -0.15 tight all round so i reckon the cam box gaskets have been compressed over time. Except a couple of exhaust valves which were a bit tighter which could be recession, but probably not. Anyway, I set those 2 back to -0.15 out all round. engine runs a bit smoother and quieter. Horn stopped working, and both of these (polish made, high and low tone) tested dead on the bench replaced with a random toyota low tone from under the house untill i go to PaP again and raid another euro (they have the best horns) This 132 front brake kit showed up on trademe for cheap, slightly bigger diameter discs and calipers (with new pads) and carriers, these bolt on to 125 hubs so will suit the ute or sedan. Not decided yet. 20mm larger diameter and a bit thicker with aftermarket vented discs available There is a pretty serious oil leak from the bottom of the bell housing, and i dont want to be 'that guy' at drag day. i suspect the main seal.and the clutch is getting pretty low on adjustment and feels is a bit gummed up and grabby but slippy at the same time. I also think that the turning noise may be gearbox/clutch related even though i cant fell it in the stick and the box changes well. Specifically the spigot bearing, or the main shaft roller ball bearing in the front of the case. Ive been chasing rainbows on this one for a while and seem some shit man, so im not ruling anything out. Changing the clutch means dropping the box, so ill be able to check and fix a lot of stuff out in this area. Ive ordered a clutch kit and bearings and have most of the seals and gaskets 'in stock' So in preperation for it being a gearbox issue, I dragged this from storage and gave it a waterblast, its a low km FSO 5 speed box from a Polonez car someone stripped when it turned up at PaP. This is a copy of the 'late type' Fiat boxes and is the same as the one in my truck at the moment. Looks pretty clean on the outside now, and apart from the dirty oil, the inside looked ok too. If i do have to swap boxes the bell housing needs to swap to the fiat one in the truck already, to put the starter on the other side of the engine. This particular bell housing will be kept around as it will let me bolt one of these Colotti 5 speeds to the 2300 engine if the column change every goes bad (please dont go bad!).

The drive from mine to Smales is 100% boring motorway too, but Hampton is like 5x as far on equally boring motorways. I assume the idea is that its up to attendees to choose which ever one is most convenient/interesting and go to that one. Choose your poison - Durrty South or Sure Things?

How have i not seen this thread before? Top work champ

How have i not seen this thread before? Top work champ

lush!

Took it for a good drive yesterday, wow, what a difference! Cant feel the engine bumping around though the pedal now, and the pedal modulation is way nicer. However some further mods needed. Pulled the pedal out for a bit more bending to put it in just the right place. should be a bit more comfortable. Added a throttle stop and not just to keep @cletus happy, its a good mod ,makes it feel more OEM. The stop is the two big nuts, one tacked to the fire wall, the other a lock nut, and the two upper two bolts secure the pedal mount. You can also see a big bent oval hole in the firewall from the old linkage, through an even bigger factory triangle hole in the arch above the steering box though to the firewall and steering column gasket etc which is all right behind the front wheel... Made an 'inner arch' from some thick plastic sheet to block the big and smaller hole both off from water and grit from the wheel. Should keep the engine bay cleaner and dryer, and made a big difference on my sedan to road noise too. Made a stiffer engine side cable mount set up, using the old 'custom' linkage mount as a base and some random channel from the 'that will come in handy one day' pile Super happy with how this all worked out, usually i have to make this stuff 2 or 3 times, but it all just fell into place. The cable mount has a spare slot that tidys up the the brake vacuum hose too, and there is a cable clip on the other cam box. Minty. The toyota throttle wheel just got tacked onto the old universal linkage. Toyota AE82 parts for the win! ---- Found these NOS indicators pretty cheap on ebay and they turned up the other day, so then I swapped out the mismatched and cracked old ones. had to change the connections that had already been hacked up, so also tidied the wiring a bit. Now the flasher goes way faster. One toyota part in, one toyota part out.

The throttle linkage is very shit, i think its from the (131?) donor car the twin cam came from and has been hacked in, rubs on the hood latch and rattles a lot. So very shit. Had to cut it to get it out. I was happy to make it inoperable. $18 Pile of likely looking bits from pickapart, mostly from a Toyota AE82 hatch Firewall cable mount just tucked in behind the loom hole, worked out perfect Had to bend the pedal a bit to suit the curve of the tyre well/firewall, and still could do with a bit of tweaking to get it sitting just right but stoked. Carb end worked out well too but will probably need to remake the cable mount a bit stiffer sooner rather than later but it got dark/no photos. Test drive tomorrow,

Still poking away at this, tinted the rear window, actually made a surprisingly big difference to how stuffy it gets in there. Because its cheap stuff it will fade to purple. Not even mad. Also replaced the rear shocks, KYB Gas-Adjusts, the old ones were knackered. I got these with the fronts months ago from Lada Power, 2102/2104 Wagon rears, perfect match Old SAE (!) threaded bolts put a fight. Replaced with metric like the rest of the ute/world Hacked a bit off the brake proportioning valve mount, its pretty tight to get the grinder in there and with all the brake lines ive left it rough. I also relocated the valve up a bit to account for the lowering blocks. Ill tidy this up a bit more when i drop the diff and rear brakes/valve, which is pretty much the only area i havnt replaced everything on yet. For now, just the shocks. The interference fit on the last setup didnt self clearance after however long! I feel i may have finally found and fixed the stupid knocking noise, but ive started pulling the accelerator pedal and linkages off so i havnt test hooned it yet.

i also appreciate a 124, from up here in superior 125 land good luck and may your spinning knot wheel of truth only reveal solid steel (LOL)

yeah, had recommended use of helicopters to people planning on building in the waitakeres to save carving out massive truck access roads with all the associated gravel + retaining etc, people thought i was having a laugh, but it can work out quite a bit cheaper depending on how many loads and exactly what the load is etc. Helicopter use is a time=money scenario, but can be seriously a lot less time and money than the other 'cheaper' options but you need it to run like clockwork, every minute wasted is like $10 minimum. I would assume that if you had a truck accessible load staging area (by your shed?) and all the loads were pre-organised and ok-ed by the pilot (they tend to like to use their own ground people who know what they are doing at load and drop zones, which also cost$) you could probably get all the bulky stuff needed for a small cabin up in a couple of loads?

its all good man, i said i would do it, and your donation more than covered the difference

Our South Island trip was 100% AWESOME, as is the South Island generally, which is great because our mission was partly holiday, partly visiting family and friends, and part reconnaissance for a future move to Dunedin. Definitely keen, wont be happening tomorrow but the brain cogs are certainly churning on it. The map below is from the googs, but it only allows 10 destinations per 'trip', and so doesnt show all our diversions, side trips and backtracking. By my reckoning (odo before and after) we drove closer to 4500km, which at 13-14l/100km wasnt exactly cheap motoring, but the cheap accommodation more than made up the difference!. Some pics from the trip that feature van 1st stop, 1.5hours from home, Raglan Stop 2, Raetahi, was a good test! Our coldest night was -6^C in St Arnaud But worth it! Somewhere down south. We paid, promise! Tekapo Orari Gorge Kidd Bush Reserve, Lake Hawea. Lucky we only have a small camper van Kaikoura This was a bonus extra nightin the South thanks to the ferry cancelled due to the weather. Whatamango near picton which is a bird santuary, saw lots of odd birds, heard a couple more too, Was only pissed cause I drove away from great waves at Mangamanu to make the cancelled sailing, and got the text once we got to Blenheim. And picked up a 'small pop top camper' at the port in Wellington to tow north for @Otodat, van handled it fine, just chugged even more gas (got up to 18l/100km!) Anyways, van was a champ, no dramas at all, except for the (factory) interior lights not working now. Would have been a pain if there wasnt extra lighting already, but there was, so meh i do have some plans for a few tweaks to the interior, but its making whats pretty good already even better.

in prep for the south island trip i pulled finger and attached all this junk to the roof doggo approves subject to test drive mrs reckons "its ok, i guess" fuck yeah, its ok

diff chat update, looks like this one is a rear loader, so maybe a c200? van is auto + petrol im guessing the diff will be taller than a diesel/manual? will keep a weather eye out for a lsd r200

Keeping the electomag fan? I had same oily reserviour situation in my ute. I ran a couple of rounds of plain water with some dishwasher powder for a couple days each and its fine now. The indicator bit looks good for a 125. The rust in the radiator support is the main bit, check the chassis rail corner gussets and castor contol arm mount areas too. The support panel and valance rusts from the inside out due to the dumb design on the wheel arch side.

cavallino wide ovals for the win or retreads

top work man, i have a EFI head & manifold etc that im pondering installing in my ute to get rid of the pesky single carb. Whats holding me back is the controller side of it, i get mechanical stuff but complex electrical stuff is little a bit like magic to me I keep looking at twin sideys, (they go great in my sedan, and the dooorts, oh my) but for almost the same money going mega + EDIS seems like the ideal solution. Im just scared of my stupid sausage fingers and all those tiny little thingees + a soldering iron and cocking it all up leaving me with an expensive pile of scrap.