governorsam

wipers fixed, put later model steering bits in it as well. now have self cancelling indicator switch! mint! needs more low, has about 14 inches ground clearance to the chassis rails.

had to take the tank to get dipped/stripped/etched first. $60, not to bad i reckon. plus then get the leaks fixed... oh well, must be time for a beer then.

shit, nearly a year... pulled the fuel tank out today, about an inch of crud in the bottom. yuk. off to the radiator shop to get it cleaned/flushed/leaks fixed.

keen

keen for a drive and beer/burnt meat thing. maybe a drive around the bays before the pub? still a few good bits of driving road left on the hill. (dyers pass road one handed in a 1949 morris minor.) Ov80EXKn0hc

keen

this: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30184 Is my daily driver.

pulled wipers out to see what's wrong with them - no fun going over the hill with no wipers. found this: bollox. housing split, bolts stripped, wheel boxes worn out. bollox again. oh well, time to raid the spares bin again.

scored a sweet velour rally car seat the other day.

$195 complete triumph motor/box. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/triumph/auction-424140334.htm

f is field e is earth n is relay control bit, 6v is fine. unplug 3pin plug, put 12v "+" to "F" and that will bypass reg. start up, not reving too much, check voltage at batt. should be 13.8v and upwards as you rev it more. not too much, as the reg has been bypassed. go over 15 volts, you will start blowing bulbs and boiling batterys. if all good, turn everything electrical on full - wipers, lights on hi-beam, heater, etc. run above test again, this will load test alt, wiring and belt slippage. put volt meter between batt "+" and alt"+" under full electrical load, and rev up a bit. no more than 0.5v same from batt "-" and alternator body. report back findings when done. go.

my old one. flat black with pinstripe flames / hotwire mags.

do this.

wiring should be fine, just get repaired what is needed. fuse box on these are prone to playing up. replace fuses, and clean up the terminals with a bit of wet and dry sandpaper. also check plugs to the dash, sounds like they were the last things to be touched. failing that, should be able to help after work some day if needed.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=display&thread=70135 http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.php?t=43&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=085f86cd93562e0317b1eefe64786a14

looking good. converted mine to studs, just use later morrie ones. countersink the rear of the drums and bash studs through. lets me use toyota mags on it. heaps better.

discussion/abuse link below http://oldschool.co....sams-49-morrie/ did the rust yesterday. well some of it anyway. not looking good.. oh dear.. oh my... lots better.

DCgI9WsNGj0

http://www.trikegaraget.com/

check brushes in the alternator as well, common failure/wear out.

should have an f next to it on the alternator.

if light is on all the time, put batt + to the "f" terminal (field) and check as above. voltage should rise heaps. this bypasses the regulator, and will tell you if it is a reg or alt problem.

loose fan belt? voltage drop? if you can turn the alternator fan by hand and it slips on the belt, may be the problem. run motor about 2-3000 rpm, voltmeter on the battery should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts. now turn on high beam lights, wipers, heater, etc to full, recheck. if lots lower, its either the fan belt, or voltage drop. measure voltage between the battery + and the alternator + under load (everything turned on as above, revving the motor) anything more than 0.5 volts is worth looking at. repeat with the earth terminals, but go from the batt negative to the block. also check from batt negative to the body. if all this fails, drink beer / kill it with fire.

use ear plugs.

poo