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Yea, I have to say, that it was possibly a bit misleading, I don't think anyone could repeat the exercise for the same $$ but I do believe that he did it for that price. If you look at the rules for the 13s for $1300 competion then you will see that everything thats had for free has to be priced at market value, a few items like drag radials are not included in the price though. After all the coveted "Performanceforums Niggerdick Ashtray of Glory" is up for grabs, why would he want to jeopardise his chances???

This is a stock 2jzge + t through a big stall converter on E85 on ~20 psi. runs 10.49 @ 131 for less than $5k total. Build: http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67262325

I have seen some oldschool hot rodder tack a bit of rod on the back and hand swage it with a plastic/rubber mallet. You could do one diagonal then remove the rod and do the other?/I would pay someone to do it but if your keen you could do it yourself.

Your truck is awesome, well done man. I used to drive EPU316 for Straits haha.

Put a 1600 in it, easiest and cheapest. But if you are set on the 1300 then just stick with the basics carbs extractors head work and cam. You will probably sink >$2g into this if if you pay someone to do it. If it was me and I really couldn't have a 1600 just yet, but could in the future and I didn't want to do an engine swap, I would max the head put a set of side draughts and a good set of extractors on a stock bottom end untill it dies (the stock cast iron crank is only good to 7000 or so rpm reliably). Then build up a 1600 bottom end with 1300 pistons to bump the compression ratio and a wild cam and be done with it or if you are rich put a steel crank in it too. Like polishing any turd, the gain won't be worth the effort or dollars but thats not really why we do it is it?

For reference, I did some of these not that long ago, and after giving it a heap of shit it wouldn't come off. Some old piner told me that you have to keep it all straight and inline when you are hitting it, sure enough, a couple of whacks and it came off a treat.

I'll leave these here for inspiration.

Yea, I too am sceptical. It says its 2950 lbs and trapped 200 mph, that works out to a little over 1800 flywheel hp, pretty impressive numbers, but I don't think it was on a stock block, and if it was it wouldn't last long. Look I'm not saying don't do it, all I WAS saying is be reasonable with your goals, there is no need to reinvent the wheel. If you do like drag racing and seriously want to give it a go, have a look at what works for other people. A hilux diff will last well into the 170 mph trap speeds, and if you really want to chase big numbers get yourself and iron block, big turbos and plenty of giggle gas.

You have yet to prove it. I will eat my words if you can show me a 1500 hp 1UZ. That is, 4l with an alloy block. I don't doubt you can get the uz family to those numbers, but it will be a 4.7l iron block. There is a mighty big difference between 1000 and 1500 hp.

Yea Like I said, you won't be getting 1500 hp out of a 1uz. I'm not saying that you can't get that power out of something, but just not an alloy block 1uz. OKE020 has a 2jz and weights 1215 kg in race trim and puts out over 1000 rwhp through a 6k stalled powerglide, I think its probably a pretty good comparison.

I agree, you won't be getting 1500 hp out of a 1uz, a 2/3 uz maybe, but its pretty well established that they crack blocks. As for trying to re invent the wheel, don't, N2O has been used since ww2, and for good reason, it works. It also has more benefits than just being a powerful oxidising agent, when it breaks down into O2 and N2 it releases a whole bunch of energy from its chemical bonds, which is the main reason why it is so good at spooling up massive turbos at the staging lights. And as for a hilux not being strong enough... I would use E85 as soon as it become widely available here. In Aus it seems as though its fairly consistant at the pump at around 70 % ethanol, and there are many high power cars that just tune to this level and be done with it. I'm all for having BIG power, but on the street a genuine 400 rwhp will be more than the tyres/road can handle.

I've been told that Lotus Grey is just the cheapest grey that the apprentice could get when they sent him down to the local hardware store at the time. I would quite believe it too seeings as it is always different. Many Lotus affectionardos will try to tell you different but its been an unsettled debate for years.

If you really want wide white walls and you need new tyres you could try this: Apparently Kumho Ecsta 795's are good for it.

I was going to buy this very car years ago when I had my E21, I was planning to plates and tags it because it had a way better body than mine. If you want a full exhaust for the M10 then give me a bell.

Reminds me of these: I put two baby seats in series on one of these for a mate who had twins haha

^ This

Not with that motor he won't.

I profess to know absolutely nothing about Zephyrs. Canterbury Uni Motosoc has one with a 351 in it. I was told that it has a supra box in in so thats probably no help to you. The fit was quite tight, like doing up the headder studs 1/8th of a turn at a time tight. Went ok in a straight line, but lack of traction going round corners and massive amounts of body roll made for and interesting ride. All in all we need more of this sort of maddness in NZ. +1 from me

how cheap are we talking? you could add a turbo?