otazup

cheers guys yea all valid points i had a good talk to an eng reconditioner yesterday, he says to balance the rods, pistons, rings, crank, flywheel and balancer all as one. pretty big job he says can do for $500 which is decent i think. he also said the difference in weight may be from the bolts? i didnt even consider this so im gona remove them first and weigh again and go from there. arp bolts as you say are definately going in, apparently standard nuts are crap. cheers jason

hey guys i am roughly blueprinting my motor before it goes back together. My problem is ive just weighed my rods. (as a whole piece, not the big and small ends individually). 3 of the rods weigh about 9-10gms more than the other 5. these same 3 are from a different motor which may explain the difference?? anyway, am i just being perdantic in thinking i need to linish some weight off? or can i just whack them in and go. I really want to hear from someone who builds there own v8s as im sure itll be different principal to 4 cyl etcs. the 5 originals weigh between 736-738gms each and the other 3 weigh 748gms. i know thats alot of weight to take off a rod so i thought im not gonna start if i dont have to. the motor is a 351 cleveland if that matters and also whats your opinion in painting the lifters valley, ive heard good and bads things. i mostly want to do it for oil return and also cause it looks tidy! any advice much appreciated Jason

sweet i will do, i just done some more research into the edelbrock performers and they have 204/214 duration @.50, which looks to be about your 130-b cam. which i doubt will give me the lumpy idle. so the 130-e sounds pretty good. thanks again for your help ill see how i go

thanks for the link man, ill have a look shortly. will this cam be sweet for the dwell?, i would prefer to buy from a reputable company as in yourselves. and do you guys do cam brgs etc as well? id be keen for a price for cam,lifters and brgs. or should i call the branch tomorrow if its easier? cheers jason

oh and voldo its a mk4 zephyr, and itll be street driven, but would be keen to hit port rd and burnout comps once in a while. not looking to pull over 6500rpm id think.

cheers k-trips and thanks voldo. ill be running manual no matter what. at this stage im 3 speed, but thatll either change to 4 or 5 speed once motor is done. my diff is 3.8. i want to have good manifold vacuum and also a lumpy idle. if i can have my cake and eat it too?. i have thought about getting one ground to suit, but also i thought an off the shelf item could be better since edelbrock would of done all the r and d. their kits are $300 for cam and lifters and are stocked in auckland. do you havea ballpark figure price for cam and lifters voldo? cheers guys

Hey guys Im at the stage of ordering a new camshaft and lifter set. I dont understand too much about lift, duration etc. there is an edelbrock cam i have my eye on so i can advise of those specs if youd like. but first a rundown of my engine specs. Ford Cleveland V8 351 factory crankshaft 302 6" Rods ACL shortdeck pistons compression ratio expected to be about 9.6-9.8:1 with 62cc chamber heads stock valve sizes, can post sizes up if need be. Crane roller tip rockers. ported cast heads for now. Im building what they call a long stroke 351 motor, long rods and short pistons, therefore im going to have more dwell at tdc apparently, this is where i get stuck. do i need a cam with more duration to handle the longer tdc dwell? or is this where my lift comes in, or is that due to roller ratio etc. I know google would be a help here but there are so many pages i dont know where to start. so i thought id try old faithful first. cheers guys Jason

hey mate cheers for the reply. much appreciated. is this trev from out in whitby??. ill contact him tonight....also that brace looks like what i need except its a different shape to the mkivs box. does anyone in the welly area have any falcon xr-xc steering boxes i could measure and possibly purchase? cheers

haha yeah man im facebook official as of last week, seedy you need to add me c_nt.!. that would be awesome man if you could cheers man. they are hardcase some of these zephyr guys aye

hey guys i have a 70 mk4 zephyr. non-power steer the problem i have is the factory cast alloy steering box is cracking around the bolts where it mounts to the chassis around the bolt holes. this problem seems to be common to mk4s. i am getting mine welded atm, but im predicting itll just crack again , and also wont pass cert and wofs etc. ive got 3 other steering boxes. one from another standard zeph, a zody one and a zephyr power steer one. all four incl mine have cracks showing in the same spots. i thought it might just be mine due to it being so low with fats on. but these other boxes are all from original cars that have been wrecked. two were running 13s on crossplys. my question to you is either now or when you were hotrodding these back in the day, what did you guys used to put in its place.? im thinking one from a xr-xy falcon,or maybe mk3 zephyrs are cast iron and bolt straight up? i dont want to change geometry too much, surely something bolts straight on. fords are cool like that. and by the way nothing is wrong with the rails,flexing under load etc. they are solid as a rock. cheers in advance jason

cool cheers guys, should i be able to push the spring in the middle of them or should they be hard,? im gonna replace them anyway, but just curious.

cheers man, engine is virgin done about 67,000ks from 1971, i pulled heads off today, heaps of carbon build up, strange for such a low ks motor i thought, hasnt been taken for a decent run in 3 years or so. bores are good. my question for now is, should the lifters be springy when i push in the middle of them?, if so then i think thats the problem. only 1 of the 16 do haha!! and when i remove them they are pretty concave underneath and also the cam has lots of pitting on, im probably in for a rebuild but im still keen to know about the lifters if anyone knows?? oh and the springs look to be sweet, the valves all go in and out and the pushrods look straight and clean inside. thanks heaps jason

hey guys the plot thickens, was doing more tuning yesterday and now a tick has developed from no.8 cyl, seems to be lifter related. pulled out plug and is abit wet with fuel. not soaked but not sooty either., im picking this is the cause of my miss the whole time. and nows its just got worse, i am gonna take covers off tomorrow and inspect but my question now is how do i test that the lifters are 100% or not. i will pull pushrods and clean throughly too cheers

Thanks man will do, I thought a 6.5" valve would be plenty enough for a standard cammed engine. Holley says anything over 13hg to use a 6.5", ill go to the speed shop today and see if they have them

Hi guys thanks for the replies I can see everyones point of view. For now I'm gona try the transfer slot thing that clevomafia is talking about as I didn't check that. I know my pump isn't bottoming out. It feels like its a prolem like transistioning from idle to wot. Ill check that and report back, another reason to buy carbs brand new, still its fun playing with them haha. Cheers jason