Rookie

^ Yuh TK is the man, Definitely knows his shit. If you are really interested, read through these, unfortunately the parent website isn't up?!? Anyway it will give you a great insight into what you are actually trying to achieve. http://www.eurospares.com/graphics/engine/Vizard/

Has anyone used or converted an old arc welder into a scratch start tig?

You can do it yourself, but it is easy to make a head go backwards if you don't know what you are doing. I would suggest buying some books on head porting and have a read what works and what doesn't, there are even books specifically for the crossflow.

Desperately needs lowering, clip ons, and rear sets.

There is a reason they are refered to as Traumatics.

Good work Sparkle, glad to hear that you made home in one piece. Also, I swoon your exhaust/navigation skills!

You can't weld to the cast spindle, is this what you have done?

If you are building a cafe racer this should be your only inspiration

And you guys tried to tell me twink was better than vivid because it came off....

Depending on how the cam bucket setup is on mitsi engines, you may need valve stem seal pliers. I made a set by welding a nut to an old pair of circlip pliers and cutting it in half, worked reasonably well, but not as good as the real deal.

Not silly Al, I have heard of people using 1/8 BSP fittings in each runner then hooking them up to a collector tank, I'm not too sure about the balance pipe in the manifold above.

I could be convinced on taking a ride.

So what time does that mean you will arrive at the ding/ where ever we are staying?

Also I converted the final drive on this to 4pk multi vee, sooo much better and no slip, would trade again.

Yea na, it's exactly the same principle, except you drill 4 jets each time instead of 1.

Unlikely that it is tuning bro, the car wouldn't have done that when it was running last so in theory it shouldn't do it now. I would concentrate on cleaning the carbs if they are as dirty as you say.

Yea pump jets can get stuck, they were on my Alfa. You probably wouldn't go a miss if you pulled the top off and made sure the float bowl was filling with fuel, the pump jet ball bearing was free and all the jets and passage ways are clean. Also go to http://www.Lotus7.co.nz, there are a bunch of super knowledgeable guys over there on the semantics of them.

Have you checked the idle jets? But seriously I would be surprised if the carbs were in working order after 15 years, they will need a rebuild. For the pump jets you will see fuel squirt into the intake when you twist the throttle shaft. I assume you have googled about DCOEs? http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/docs/Tips_tuning_Weber_carburettors_DVAndrews.pdf http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/2trSite/WeberDCOEinfo.htm http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?HowDoI%2FTuneWeberCarburettors http://cnx.org/content/m37431/latest/

Yea, before you go replacing jets, I would get the thing running first. I too echo what has been said re float bowls and pump jets. I would definitely rekit the carbs.

Have you spoken to one? They usually will come and have a look for a fee. Also if you are putting in a rack, there really isn't any reason not to do it properly, shortening racks and making tie rod extensions are pretty common place to get this issue right.

Keen, but as I don't know what will be happening at this time, put me down as a maybe.

If you are doing that I dare say the certifier will make you have effectively zero bump, sorry.

That's not true Alex, only if they can prove that the modifications were the cause of the accident will you not be covered.

Whats the possibility of getting a new rack end? TBH I would just chop it off and replace the lot, but I don't have parts issues with any of my cars.

You didn't give us your go-pro/ we were to worried about getting to the pub to take videos. But yea, I think longer bolts with appropriate lock nuts should be the go.