Rookie

Depending on how old the car is it may be worth looking into adding relays into the circuit, on some cars those alone can make quite a difference.

Hey Clint, what's the go if you convert a say 1994 rhd car to lhd, the plan is for it to have a motorsport authority card, but can it be done and still get cert? Like wise with removing airbags and abs?

It isn't too difficult, you will need Constant B+ Switched B+ Good Earth Antena (if you are using one) And a + and - to each speaker you will have. From my experience the constant B+ is either blue or yellow, Switched B+ is red, Earth is black. The speaker wires will be pairs, green and green with a white stripe, Purple and purple with a white stripe etc The constant B+ is the main power to keep the memory going it will need an inline fuse (sometimes the head unit will have a built in fuse), the switched B+ will need to be hooked into the ignition switch to tell the head unit when to turn on and doesn't need a fuse, the earth can just be a screw that connects the wire to the chassis. Then it is just a matter of hooking up all of the wires. You should definitely splash out on some crimps and heat shrink so the your stereo doesn't cut out when you go over bumps in the road and stuff, there should definitely be a youtube video on how to crimp and use heat shrink properly. Other than that you will need wire strippers, and a volt meter so that you can find you switched B+. Go forth young grass hopper and let us know you you get on.

I was about to post "shit update" after that first post, but you redeemed yourself magnificently, good job man.

Specs Ned, super keen to get in on that.

Chris, it probably comes down to certifier, and mine was a custom frame not just a weld on hard tail, so in this regard it could very well be different, but I dont see how you could weld on a caliper mount without them wanting it tested. The lights/indicator thing is dumb, but you gotta play the game, the certifier definitely checked mine for e markings. I rode mine without indicators for ages after I changed the rear guard and tyre, but you will need them for wof/have to put the rest of the junk back on, but you have cost to be the boss.

Yes, for cert everything will need e marking. As for what you have done, I will assume it will be similar to what I needed for mine; 1D certifier and crack test for everything that has changed and special requirements for brake lever if you have changed/modified it. Also It will need a chain guard, front mud guard, rear reflector and a I think a couple of other pointless things I can't remember right now hahaha

Pretty sure you need a bigger k&n...

Noise from the gearbox is probably input bearing if it goes away when you put the clutch in.

+1 for Jody, especially his padding beads video, basically welding structural stuff right off the bat should be avoided, it won't take too long to get the hang of it.

Holy lol Roman, you dont need a knock sensor to road tune, especially on a na motor, geturdun!

Your mate is wrong, they have a dongle thingee like this stock. So this is most likely your problem. Easy fix though. But I would shorten the new ones as well.

Wind that timing into it Roman.

What did you paint it with? If it is 2k wait a couple of weeks and wet sand it with 2000 grit, then buff it and it should come out mint. /is that primer? If so ignore that advice and just da it to 600 and put top coat on. Then when the top coat has peel then follow that advice.

I've never had any trouble torquing down head gaskets to check clearances and then using them in the actual build.

L is for light usually, so I would expect just a led would do the trick,I guess you aren't using a warning light? On my lotus I just used a normal 12v bulb and it worked great, but then that was an older lucas internally regulated alt, but I can't see it being too different. The local auto sparky had a big speal about why a diode isn't the same as a bulb, but I didn't pay as much attention as I should have, so maybe for the $5 that a 12v bulb costs then give it a hoon, like I said it was the recommended action for mine.

I would seriously just put a decomp valve in the head, they work great on big saws and they are like $10. If the ignition is right for max powa then it os the only option imo.

My first port of call would be to check the base timing.

I would go as far as saying they are more bullet proof than a k series, basically just keep putting gas in it and drive into the sunset.

Masterpowers have been a good cheapish turbo for a while now, long gone are the days of glued compressor housings and catastrophic failures. I guess the reason you dont see them used more is that they are twice the price of China turbos and half the price of Garrett, so dont suit cheap or rich people, which are basically the only two types of car guys hahaha.

I changed it to a link, stupid ms...

Like so: http://www.useasydocs.com/Bosch_211.gif

I would use the Subaru Ignitor, they are cheap and easy to get, and work great, as well as get pesky noise out of your ECU (which isn't designed or shielded properly like oem ones are). And yes they are definitely Logic level, Supply it with your ign out and it will work.

Yup that cherry item I posted is legit, just know that you need to add a pull up resistor to get a super clean signal.

Bloody good job mate, I love it when people do good work like this.