Rookie

Yes, but what Keegan was saying that if you are serious about it you will have a bunch of settings for the car for taupo, and a bunch of settings for hampton. If you don't you are leaving lap time on the table. If you are wearing the one side of the car more than the other then you aren't getting the maximum amount of grip available and you should change settings until you get it a good as possible. I know that is a whole bunch easier said than done, but the fact it is correct holds true.

I'm pretty sure you connect the ECU and the logger together with CAN, so no need to do extra wires for that. I wouldn't use any gauges, and just have a digital dash/tablet that you can cycle through to see specific things if you want/ when the warning light comes on. Well that is how I would do it, I dunno about you but I dont spend a lot of time looking at my gauges when I'm driving in anger hahaha.

Yea absolutely, well I haven't used one yet, but that is what it should be able to do haha.

A telemetry setup monitors what's going on with the car(g loads, speed, gps, wheel slip, shock loads etc), and driver inputs(accelerator, brakes, steering inputs, as well as gear), basically it gives you a picture of what the car is doing rather than seat of the pants feel. This is the one I was talking about. https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturepro/ The ones on eBay are legit, and you do t have to worry about compatibility as long as you get a data sheet that tells you x pressure = y resistance as you can input it into the ECU. Sweet as if you have a spare but it sucks having a $50 part put an end to a race day etc so worth thinking about, but like I said if you have the means, then go all out as it will make your days better and easier to find problems with you or the car hahaha

It is better to go crazy if you have the means, data is knowledge and knowledge is power. Especially as this is a race car I would look into a telemetry setup too, as there is a really good one on the market for about $500. But yea, all of those sensors plus oil temp, baro pressure, flex fuel sensor so you can run it on e85. You dont need to fork out tons for sensors either Russel, eBay is great for pressure transducers, and temp senders, and second hand flex fuel sensor out of a new Commodore would work great. I would also use ls coils and ditch the cop, as the heat will likely kill them. I dont know much about ca's but dont the factory cas die on them? I would look into running a toothed wheel on the crank as well, so that you can just use the cas as a trigger for sequential spark, that way you can change it to wasted spark at the track if it dies, no idea if that is correct but sounds reasonable in my head hahaha.

Man, there must be so many double takes when you are towing your fancy cars around with this thing, So sweet, keep up the good work.

Also, use pushlok fittings are the only option. The normal ones are a pig to put together, and stainless braid is dumb also.

They were designed specifically to be tightened and loosened a lot, which makes them ideal for use on hoses that get taken off a lot.

If that is sprayed in the og colour it will be ar501 alfa rosso. If not, then no clue haha. When I sprayed my one I used the simpler of the two ar501 codes.

You will be able to use it, but it will have shit consistency, be running all the time, and your water trap probably won't catch all the water.

Holy piss, v12 cbx is Fucken legit!!

Not unless you want to do 1m^2 at a time hahaha

That compressor will be fine as long as you take your time and let it keep on top of the pressure. Also make sure you buy a good water trap.

Yea heat soaked fuel comes from pumping it too much, so if you have massive pump, and are returning it to a surge tank you will likely have problems if you aren't driving at wot most of the time.

Lol, street cars dont need dyno work, you can easily achieve a safe 95% tune just by hooning around and using a scientific approach to your tuning method, not only that but it is fun. Don't even get me started on some of the dodgy tunes that have come from reputable dyno shops, basically doing it yourself is better most of the time.

L is for light as in warning light on the dash, F is for field, n for neutral, and e for excite, well that is my guess. So you have it hooked up completely the wrong way.

You can just do an engine bay with a 50l 2HP compressor. Make sure you wait a few times so the compressor can keep its pressure up.

Ok car is an e30 touring, the bags will be the universal aerosport strut bags up front and universal air house 2's in the back. The reason I have been saying 200 psi as that seems the be a common marketing number and there are hobbs switches that seem to be for sale. So my thinking was that if I could only have a 2 gallon tank then craming an extra 50 psi in it seems like a reasonable idea as long as it isn't at the detriment to other things (which according to Spence it seems like it might). As for spring rates I honestly have no idea, I have a feeling 350 in the front and 600 in the rear?, but that could be wildly wrong. The car is currently on coil overs and is about 60mm off the ground and it is Fucken annoying hence bags, so going from aired out to full height in one go isn't really necessary, just as long as it gets it to more than 60mm then it would be sweet. Kind of keen to know what pump you have sheepers, if you dont mind? Also a pic of the car for inspiration.

Sweet as, I was just wondering about the pressure, as it will make quite a difference to the volume og air you cram unto the tank, but if you are running 200 psi then that is sweet/what I was thinking of running. Based on what you guys have said I will try a 2 gallon tank and see how I get on, worst comes to I will change it.

One more question, what pressures do you guys run in the tanks?

The bags are sorted, so that isn't a problem, I'm just trying to figure out the specs for the rest of the system. Interesting that you say a 3 gallon tank will only fill the front, perhaps I will have to ditch the spare?

Said no one ever. How many bikes do you need = n+1 Where n is the number of bikes you already own.

Turn poosts to 11ty, kthxbai.

Bags are for fags, and you know I love the diddle.... /I'll have something on juice when you twin charge the 323, deal?

Does anyone have an idea on how smaller tank I can run? I could buy a pancake tank and ditch the spare, but I have had to use it already, and I dont want an air tank mounted in the boot as we do lots of trips and shit so need to maximise boot space. I dont want to be flicking switches all the time, just pump up in town for shitty roads and speed bumps and lower it for everything else. I am looking at one gallon tanks at the moment but I dont know how they will go? Also how big of a compressor? Viair 480c? It is hard when the Fucken things aren't rated like real compressors hahaha