Rookie

They are m5 wheels aren't they? They look rad, just need slam.

I would cut it to length and thread both ends, and make up a threaded sleeve that joins the two together, that way you dont need heat. Alternatively, welding a sleeve over the top of the joint would be my next option.

I like this a lot, good job Danger. Turbo the 2.5 please.

If it has double valve springs then most likely it won't have valve stem seals, the inner spring takes up the space previously occupied by the vss. What cam is in it?

Man good work Beave!

If the tune is good you dont need an oxy sensor, to the point were people who pay for tunes and dont do it themselves would have exactly 0 benefit of having one.

Just bullshit them that it is an aftermarket ECU, the gm ones practically are.

That's not true KK, you have about 50 km to bed in the rings before you glaze the bores. And yes keep running in oil in it for the first 200km or so, if you have hooned it properly then it should be run in by then.

The only way to run in a motor is maximum attack, go for a late night drive some where and use plenty of throttle.

If there is any thing in the bores I would try clean it up with scotchbrite and crc, if there is any pitting hone it, and if that doesn't work get a new one or resleave it.

Depending on how old the car is it may be worth looking into adding relays into the circuit, on some cars those alone can make quite a difference.

Hey Clint, what's the go if you convert a say 1994 rhd car to lhd, the plan is for it to have a motorsport authority card, but can it be done and still get cert? Like wise with removing airbags and abs?

It isn't too difficult, you will need Constant B+ Switched B+ Good Earth Antena (if you are using one) And a + and - to each speaker you will have. From my experience the constant B+ is either blue or yellow, Switched B+ is red, Earth is black. The speaker wires will be pairs, green and green with a white stripe, Purple and purple with a white stripe etc The constant B+ is the main power to keep the memory going it will need an inline fuse (sometimes the head unit will have a built in fuse), the switched B+ will need to be hooked into the ignition switch to tell the head unit when to turn on and doesn't need a fuse, the earth can just be a screw that connects the wire to the chassis. Then it is just a matter of hooking up all of the wires. You should definitely splash out on some crimps and heat shrink so the your stereo doesn't cut out when you go over bumps in the road and stuff, there should definitely be a youtube video on how to crimp and use heat shrink properly. Other than that you will need wire strippers, and a volt meter so that you can find you switched B+. Go forth young grass hopper and let us know you you get on.

I was about to post "shit update" after that first post, but you redeemed yourself magnificently, good job man.

Specs Ned, super keen to get in on that.

Chris, it probably comes down to certifier, and mine was a custom frame not just a weld on hard tail, so in this regard it could very well be different, but I dont see how you could weld on a caliper mount without them wanting it tested. The lights/indicator thing is dumb, but you gotta play the game, the certifier definitely checked mine for e markings. I rode mine without indicators for ages after I changed the rear guard and tyre, but you will need them for wof/have to put the rest of the junk back on, but you have cost to be the boss.

Yes, for cert everything will need e marking. As for what you have done, I will assume it will be similar to what I needed for mine; 1D certifier and crack test for everything that has changed and special requirements for brake lever if you have changed/modified it. Also It will need a chain guard, front mud guard, rear reflector and a I think a couple of other pointless things I can't remember right now hahaha

Pretty sure you need a bigger k&n...

Noise from the gearbox is probably input bearing if it goes away when you put the clutch in.

+1 for Jody, especially his padding beads video, basically welding structural stuff right off the bat should be avoided, it won't take too long to get the hang of it.

Holy lol Roman, you dont need a knock sensor to road tune, especially on a na motor, geturdun!

Your mate is wrong, they have a dongle thingee like this stock. So this is most likely your problem. Easy fix though. But I would shorten the new ones as well.

Wind that timing into it Roman.

What did you paint it with? If it is 2k wait a couple of weeks and wet sand it with 2000 grit, then buff it and it should come out mint. /is that primer? If so ignore that advice and just da it to 600 and put top coat on. Then when the top coat has peel then follow that advice.

I've never had any trouble torquing down head gaskets to check clearances and then using them in the actual build.