Valiant

Ka Ching wikipedia is my friend. Thanks.

Like the title says. Some one tell me. Thanks.

I wouldn't worry to much about the drums. Make sure they are clean and scuff them up with some sand paper.

Yeah as above. Sounds like your shoes are the problem if it's hand and foot that are giving problems. Do the lot if you are in doubt though.

I am in the process of making some at the moment too. find out what diameter and length springs are available from your parts supplier of choice. Mock it all up first to see that your shock is not going to be to short and bottom out. Yes you will always need a cert to use them.

Sorry chaps I still do not fully concur. You guys are right about the engine dammage not being an issue, my mistake. What I am saying is that the boost compensator on the injector pump adds extra fuel under boost conditions. As Yowser said above when the A/F ratio does ritchen up at full throttle, but the turbo will be 1 bar plus ahead the injector pump. You won't have enough fuel in there to make any more power. I take it you will wind the pump fuel rail up? You won't see the full benifit of the turbo. Fit the compensator and then adjust the pump.

Not true. Beside the point any way. Good luck with your miss.

Im sure it work the other way. Watch it doesn't go lean under boost and vomit piston out the exhaust. Valve clearences is another good point. Cam timing too? Double check that flapper in the intake isn't working back to front.

Hi, Stab in the dark here but here goes. The vacuum operated butterfly in the intake, is it open? are you sure? I had a 2LT do something similar because someone played with the Vacume lines. I would aim to get the boost compensator on your injector pump at some stage but it shouldn't be a problem now. One more thing you could isolate the miss my cracking a line, like pulling plug leads one at a time.

Mk 3/4/5 cortina 4 speed too.

Hi check your P.Ms. Cheers.

Ok Flat Peakers are gay. Cruising Old School Cars isn't When is this happening? I want to pull my car apart again soon.

You should have vacuum, all cars with side draughts do. Personaly I would try and join all the runners together or you will get a pulse signal to your map sensor as the intake valve opens and closes.

Hey hows your car going? I just read through the things above. I think small block Ford is the same C and W. Ford changed the winsor firing order around the release of 5.0 mustang, I think it is refered to as "mod" in the MSD instructions above. If you get stuck look for a factory Cleveland electronic distributor, they work very well and are very relyable. With your carb I would stick with your 750 vs. just come down a jet size or two, check which power valve you have, it might be opening to early. I have a 780vs on my mild-warm 383 and its great.

Nice car, I wouldn't use the D.P carb, sounds to me like your V.S has a burst power valve from a backfire. Also sounds like the accelerator pump linkage has free play or the little ball bearing has been left out of the vacum port for the secondary diaphram. If your worried about the CFM try a stiffer spring in the secondary diaphram.

Yeah I'm keen, I'll ask my VG tonight, I'm sure it'll be keen too.

Go to the Testing Station, Don't be scared of the brake rollers etc. They know the rules and aren't trying to fill their day book with WOF repairs. It doesn't mean a thing that its been entered, just take it to another place.

Thanks Chris. I've done a bit more since these photos. I have the Hubcaps, just to CBF to put them on. Hows that brake rotor deal coming on?

Ok I've got more done in the last couple of days. My shock turrets are all welded into the inner guards and I have taken the diff housing back out so I can reatach the chassis to the turret bottoms. Also I have adapted the Anglia top strut mounts to my Escort struts, cut the frame mounts off the Escort x member, removed the Anglia front, motor, and box. I've made new mounts up for the Escort x member set everything up and welded the x member to the mounts. I'm pleased, the castor and camber seem spot on, the Escort front end is wider than the Anglia one by about 30mm per side, so now the wheels sit much nicer in the guard. One problem though, I need to shorten my front struts to get some suspension travel with the stance in the photo. Does any one know of an strut insert that will fit in my Escort strut that is 50+ mm shorter? Photos. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081

There is a good chance there is a fuseable link/main fuse somewhere under the bonet, thats where I'd start.

Sorry, thats an awfull idea. Go to Shuk with your gasket and explain to them. Try a genuine Subaru one.

It won't work. Get in touch with Shuk Enginering They can make you one. Just looked at your topic. Did you clean the block and head surfaces spotlessly clean before you put it together? Were the head bolts buffed clean and lightly oiled? Did you get the head checked for straightness and cracks? Could you have pinched the o ring seal on the distributor of the rocker cover gasket causing the oil leak when you assembled it?

Still got the handbrake lever?

Bit more done. I have welded the diff housing together, and mounted it in the car the mounting plates are 50mm high for some free lowness, the axles are away being resplined at the moment. They are the same spline as 28 spline 9 inch which pleased me. I have made some shock mounts for the MK2 Escort shocks I brought and got the turrets for the shocks well underway. Probably not low enough yet but I will see how it looks when the rest is done and get the leaves dearched Disgust here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081

I'm pretty confident it will be 3/8. Personly I would upgrade my flaring tool, see about a good pipe bender while you're at it. 3/8 can be a prick to bend neatly.